I have a '98 LS400 and a '00 GS 300. I am gonna do a flush. I have searched this forum and I see different answers. Does anyone actually "KNOW" the truth? Do I just need to start on the passenger side? Does the fact they have ABS make a difference?

 

The secret is to not ever introduce any air into any antilock brake system. You have some air lurking inside the ABS controller's internal plumbing. This gives you a spongy pedal, prevents the ABS from doing its job properly, and may well cause the brake warning light to come on.

To rid your car of this air, you'll need a scan tool that can interface with the ABS controller. It's necessary to cycle the ABS pump and valves with the scan tool to move air along to where it will be carried out of the system at the caliper bleed bolts. Generically, this involves holding your foot on the brake pedal while telling the scan tool to cycle the ABS, and then bleeding the system at each corner. The specifics of how different systems need to be treated are quite different. You'll need a shop manual and a scan tool for the correct procedure for your truck. Or maybe it's time to throw in the towel and have a shop mechanic finish your job--if you can get the car there without crashing.

It's possible to flush an ABS-equipped car's brake fluid without a scan tool. The operating principle is to keep the reservoir at least half full all the time. I use two assistants--one to pump the brake pedal while another hovers over the reservoir and keeps it topped up with fluid. Bleed until the fluid runs clear. Another solution is to use a compressed-air-powered pressure bleeder. Now that you've got air in the ABS controller, however, you'll need a scan tool to do the job properly.

 

As stated by T.L.W, air should not be introduce into the system at anytime. And because these cars have a sophiscated ABS system, this air can become dislodge in the ABS unit and can't be rid of just by regular bleeding. Even having the system flushed twice with a machine couldn't get rid of this air pocket I had in the ABS unit. Only when I had the dealer properly do it did the brakes return to normal. If you're not sure about what you're doing it's best to take it in and have a trusted shop or dealer do it.

 

I have a Power Bleeder and know how to use it. My question is, "What is the correct order to use when flushing and replacing the brake fluid in my LS and GS?"

RR 1st, LR 2nd, etc.

 

You have to find out which rear wheel has the longest piping back to the master cycliner.

It may not always be the right rear. I just did my LS and went LR, RR, RF, LF and it works great.
I did the ES LR,RR, RF, LF as well and all is fine. Since nobody has explained to my satisfaction the difference of going LR, RR instead of RR, LR and proved it in the field, it doesnt seem to matter.

I did notice that the front brakes shot clear fluid really fast so Im thinking its best to start in rear.