89K, oil light, dying, rough idle?
11-28-04, 12:26 PM
#16
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The oil pump itself slides over the snout of the crank, and doesnt even need to be touched when doing a timing belt,
It would if he replaced the front seal. It is a good practice to replace any leaking seals to avoid getting oil on the timing belt.
It would if he replaced the front seal. It is a good practice to replace any leaking seals to avoid getting oil on the timing belt.
11-28-04, 12:46 PM
#17
Originally posted by beab951
The oil pump itself slides over the snout of the crank, and doesnt even need to be touched when doing a timing belt,
It would if he replaced the front seal. It is a good practice to replace any leaking seals to avoid getting oil on the timing belt.
The oil pump itself slides over the snout of the crank, and doesnt even need to be touched when doing a timing belt,
It would if he replaced the front seal. It is a good practice to replace any leaking seals to avoid getting oil on the timing belt.
11-28-04, 02:03 PM
#18
Dysfunctional Veteran
Originally posted by gebo
Just talked to the husband. He said he cranked it up and the oil light did not come on. He drove it around the Walmart parking lot and it did not miss, stutter, buck, etc. He stopped and went into Auto Zone and they suspect it is an oil starvation problem. He then started to drive it to the mechanic's shop mentioned above (the timing belt changer) and the oil light came on and the engine started making a noise. He decided to have it towed. When the tow truck got there, he cranked it up again and all of a sudden the light went off and the engine noise quit.
Does this intermittent problem help any of you mechanics with diagnosis?
What would cause the intermittent missing, stuttering, bucking?
Would low oil pressure cause this?
Just talked to the husband. He said he cranked it up and the oil light did not come on. He drove it around the Walmart parking lot and it did not miss, stutter, buck, etc. He stopped and went into Auto Zone and they suspect it is an oil starvation problem. He then started to drive it to the mechanic's shop mentioned above (the timing belt changer) and the oil light came on and the engine started making a noise. He decided to have it towed. When the tow truck got there, he cranked it up again and all of a sudden the light went off and the engine noise quit.
Does this intermittent problem help any of you mechanics with diagnosis?
What would cause the intermittent missing, stuttering, bucking?
Would low oil pressure cause this?
if the knocking is rod knock, then when you shut off the engine, all of the oil goes back down to the bottom of the engine, where the knock is quieted for a second. then, with the oil pump not working, the upper part of the engine (THE HEADS
) are not getting oil, so the valve knock and lifter knock kicks in, then the motor bogs down becuase the valves/cams have slowed for lack of oil...my theory here is, the more you run it, the more damage is being done. if the oil pump was shot, as soon as she noticed it, and shut off the engine, had she not restarted it, the motor may have been saved, thats kinda what the light is there for. just because it comes on, doesnt mean a complete motor rebuild, IF you turn off the engine IMMEDIATELY after the light comes on.
11-28-04, 09:43 PM
#19
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I have a 95 ES300 with 120K miles on it and it is hard to see the oil on the drip stick between oil changes. I see no signs of slug in this engine. Maybe your car was driven by a grandmother only on the weekend.
Yes , the timing belt may be setup incorrectly but what is up with the oil light? Since the direction of the engine rotation is always the same, it can't slip a tooth then go back to the same place it was at. It would just slip in the same direction and cause the timing to be worse each time it slipped. The result would be no power and backfires.
Here is what I have seen in some European engines with similar problems. This is a engine diagram for the 99 Es300 BTW. The oil pump is driven by the driven rotor…but notice how the drive rotor just extends though the Crankshaft front seal and relies on friction to get its drive. What drives the drive rotor? It is the bolt that holds on the crankshaft pulley. It is a friction fit, so if this bolt is loose, the oil pump isn't driven. And yes, if the bolt is loose, sometime the pump is driven, the next time it is not.
Solution, just take it to another/differnt shop and have the crank bolt torqued to specification. If it is loose, you have and issue with the mechanic who did the repair. Was the engine damaged if this is the case...yup.
Yes , the timing belt may be setup incorrectly but what is up with the oil light? Since the direction of the engine rotation is always the same, it can't slip a tooth then go back to the same place it was at. It would just slip in the same direction and cause the timing to be worse each time it slipped. The result would be no power and backfires.
Here is what I have seen in some European engines with similar problems. This is a engine diagram for the 99 Es300 BTW. The oil pump is driven by the driven rotor…but notice how the drive rotor just extends though the Crankshaft front seal and relies on friction to get its drive. What drives the drive rotor? It is the bolt that holds on the crankshaft pulley. It is a friction fit, so if this bolt is loose, the oil pump isn't driven. And yes, if the bolt is loose, sometime the pump is driven, the next time it is not.
Solution, just take it to another/differnt shop and have the crank bolt torqued to specification. If it is loose, you have and issue with the mechanic who did the repair. Was the engine damaged if this is the case...yup.
Last edited by beab951; 11-28-04 at 10:22 PM.
11-28-04, 10:04 PM
#21
Dysfunctional Veteran
Originally posted by beab951
I have a 95 ES300 with 120K miles on it and it is hard to see the oil on the drip stick between oil changes. I see no signs of slug in this engine. Maybe your car was driven by a grandmother only on the weekend.
Yes , the timing belt may be setup incorrectly but what is up with the oil light? Since the direction of the engine rotation is always the same, it can,t slip a tooth then go back to the same place it was at. It would just slip in the same direction and cause the timing to be worse each time it slipped. The result would be no power and backfires.
Here is what I have seen in some European engines with similar problems. This is a engine diagram for the 99 Es300 BTW. The oil pump is driven by the driven rotor…but notices how the drive rotor just extends though the Crankshaft front seal and relies on friction to get its drive. What drives the drive rotor? It is the bolt that holds on the crankshaft pulley. It is a friction fit, so if this bolt is loose, to oil pump isn't driven. And yes, if the bolt is loose, sometime the pump is driven, the next time it is not
I have a 95 ES300 with 120K miles on it and it is hard to see the oil on the drip stick between oil changes. I see no signs of slug in this engine. Maybe your car was driven by a grandmother only on the weekend.
Yes , the timing belt may be setup incorrectly but what is up with the oil light? Since the direction of the engine rotation is always the same, it can,t slip a tooth then go back to the same place it was at. It would just slip in the same direction and cause the timing to be worse each time it slipped. The result would be no power and backfires.
Here is what I have seen in some European engines with similar problems. This is a engine diagram for the 99 Es300 BTW. The oil pump is driven by the driven rotor…but notices how the drive rotor just extends though the Crankshaft front seal and relies on friction to get its drive. What drives the drive rotor? It is the bolt that holds on the crankshaft pulley. It is a friction fit, so if this bolt is loose, to oil pump isn't driven. And yes, if the bolt is loose, sometime the pump is driven, the next time it is not
11-28-04, 10:33 PM
#22
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Might want to check that the crankshaft bolt isn't bend or stripped. If the shop damaged the bolt during removal and they didn't do the right thing and replace it , it could be the source of your problem.
11-28-04, 10:52 PM
#24
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The torque spec I show is 159 Ft/lbs for the crankshaft bolt. It doesn't state that this is a TTY bolt, but any high torque bolt should be replaced to insure the repair lasts.
11-29-04, 01:20 AM
#25
Bro... the oil pump isnt a "friction" drive.... the pump itself is keyed to the crank shaft... there isnt a way for it to slip. The crank bolt could be completely missing and the oil pump will always be driven as long as the crank is moving. I know this from doing so many t-belt jobs, engine rebuilds, tear downs, ect... Ive had a chance to look at it all up close. And what you said, just isnt the case with the oil pump.
11-29-04, 01:22 AM
#26
Originally posted by ArmyofOne
i believe that bolt is Torque-to-yeild, so it has to be replaced, or it will back off.
i believe that bolt is Torque-to-yeild, so it has to be replaced, or it will back off.
11-29-04, 10:55 AM
#27
Dysfunctional Veteran
ok, well definately thanks for clarifying THAT LOL. i wouldnt really know sincei have never been ***** deep in a lexus/toyota. but i have had that bolt back off on my dads charger, but again, completely different motor/car.
im not sure now what to make fo this whole thing...
im not sure now what to make fo this whole thing...
Last edited by ArmyofOne; 11-29-04 at 10:56 AM.
11-29-04, 02:35 PM
#28
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I haven’t seen the drive rotor to see if it has a key and the illustration doesn't show it. Anyone that has been this far into the Lexus 300 engine please post a picture. The key would have to go under the main front seal to engage the oil pump and this presents all types of opportunities for oil leaks.
Last edited by beab951; 11-29-04 at 06:31 PM.
11-29-04, 10:01 PM
#29
Lexus Champion
This is a picture of an actual Es300 oil pump. We have at least 15 of these in stock 
. As you can see there are too grove on the pump and it slide into the crank shaft.
JPI
. As you can see there are too grove on the pump and it slide into the crank shaft. JPI