Driver School Candidate
This car has no timing belt so when should one change the water pump and thermostat?
in my other cars with timing belt I replace the thermostat and water pump when I
do the timing belt service.
in my other cars with timing belt I replace the thermostat and water pump when I
do the timing belt service.
Lexus Champion
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in my other cars with timing belt I replace the thermostat and water pump when I
do the timing belt service.
Originally Posted by ships10
This car has no timing belt so when should one change the water pump and thermostat?in my other cars with timing belt I replace the thermostat and water pump when I
do the timing belt service.
Replace thermostat when water pump starts leaking and needs to be replaced. These are not maintance items.
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Spark plugs...I replaced oem Denso iridium's at 85K for s & g's. The gap on all 8 was huge v. new Denso replacements. I've scheduled next spark plug R&R at another 75K.Originally Posted by Max707
I think the owners manual show 120k miles
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in my other cars with timing belt I replace the thermostat and water pump when I
do the timing belt service.
At the latest, pump and t'stat should be replaced as soon as you see signs of leakage (dry, spongy dried residue from SLLC). Collective opinion on mud is at 120K for PM, since you've got other major maintenance items at that mileage.Originally Posted by ships10
This car has no timing belt so when should one change the water pump and thermostat?in my other cars with timing belt I replace the thermostat and water pump when I
do the timing belt service.
Lexus Test Driver
huh mine is at 95k, you think the plugs should be done then? What do stealerships charge for that these days?
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I'd guess north of $30 per plug but really no idea as it's an easy diy. Originally Posted by pizdets17
huh mine is at 95k, you think the plugs should be done then? What do stealerships charge for that these days?
Heater hoses at passenger side rear of engine need removal to get to #8. That means draining half a gallon or so of coolant
so they can be removed without spilling anti-freeze all over. You'd also be well served to replace the heater hose "T's" while you're in there. Lexus sells the two 3-hose assemblies only, so you ask for the plastic T's for a Sequoia or Sienna...same exact T but sold separately.
If you do get it done at a dealer or indy shop, let us know the $$$ damages.
Driver School Candidate
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At the latest, pump and t'stat should be replaced as soon as you see signs of leakage (dry, spongy dried residue from SLLC). Collective opinion on mud is at 120K for PM, since you've got other major maintenance items at that mileage.
Sorry kinda new here ...what is MUD and pm?Originally Posted by hankinid
Spark plugs...I replaced oem Denso iridium's at 85K for s & g's. The gap on all 8 was huge v. new Denso replacements. I've scheduled next spark plug R&R at another 75K.At the latest, pump and t'stat should be replaced as soon as you see signs of leakage (dry, spongy dried residue from SLLC). Collective opinion on mud is at 120K for PM, since you've got other major maintenance items at that mileage.
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Sorry kinda new here ...what is MUD and pm?
"MUD' is a website filled with info on the 200 series trucks... https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/200-...-cruisers.136/Originally Posted by ships10
Sorry kinda new here ...what is MUD and pm?
"PM" is preventative maintenance.
hth
Lexus Test Driver
As soon as I hear "draining coolant" I am thinking dealer lol. I think oil changes and brakes are as far as my diy skills take me, I was never great with my hands. My next service will be in March so will see what the dealer says. Thanks for the advice
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Heater hoses at passenger side rear of engine need removal to get to #8. That means draining half a gallon or so of coolant
so they can be removed without spilling anti-freeze all over. You'd also be well served to replace the heater hose "T's" while you're in there. Lexus sells the two 3-hose assemblies only, so you ask for the plastic T's for a Sequoia or Sienna...same exact T but sold separately.
If you do get it done at a dealer or indy shop, let us know the $$$ damages.
Originally Posted by hankinid
I'd guess north of $30 per plug but really no idea as it's an easy diy.Heater hoses at passenger side rear of engine need removal to get to #8. That means draining half a gallon or so of coolant
so they can be removed without spilling anti-freeze all over. You'd also be well served to replace the heater hose "T's" while you're in there. Lexus sells the two 3-hose assemblies only, so you ask for the plastic T's for a Sequoia or Sienna...same exact T but sold separately.
If you do get it done at a dealer or indy shop, let us know the $$$ damages.
Lexus Test Driver
I got the "personal recommendation maintenance" from Lexus website. looks like spark plugs are not for a while yet. thoughts?
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Heater hoses at passenger side rear of engine need removal to get to #8. That means draining half a gallon or so of coolant
so they can be removed without spilling anti-freeze all over. You'd also be well served to replace the heater hose "T's" while you're in there. Lexus sells the two 3-hose assemblies only, so you ask for the plastic T's for a Sequoia or Sienna...same exact T but sold separately.
If you do get it done at a dealer or indy shop, let us know the $$$ damages.
Originally Posted by hankinid
I'd guess north of $30 per plug but really no idea as it's an easy diy.Heater hoses at passenger side rear of engine need removal to get to #8. That means draining half a gallon or so of coolant
so they can be removed without spilling anti-freeze all over. You'd also be well served to replace the heater hose "T's" while you're in there. Lexus sells the two 3-hose assemblies only, so you ask for the plastic T's for a Sequoia or Sienna...same exact T but sold separately.
If you do get it done at a dealer or indy shop, let us know the $$$ damages.
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Coolant draining is a breeze. Get two 1 gallon milk jugs or similar, and about 2 feet of clear vinyl tubing (HD or Lowes). Push one end of the tubing over the radiator drain nipple, and the other end in the jug. Open the drain valve and fill the jug. If it looks like it will drain more than a gallon, pinch the tubing with your fingers to stop the flow and use the other milk jug. Once the flow stops, you're ready to remove the heater hoses (6 total) and replace the T's. If you can do brakes and oil changes, you'll find out we're not talking brain surgery here. Originally Posted by pizdets17
As soon as I hear "draining coolant" I am thinking dealer lol. I think oil changes and brakes are as far as my diy skills take me, I was never great with my hands. My next service will be in March so will see what the dealer says. Thanks for the advice
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Search for 5.7 Tundra drain coolant on utube...same process, same engine. Originally Posted by pizdets17
someone should make a video lol
Pit Crew
I'm clumsy. In addition, I don't have a lift nor the tools. (Although the tools are easy to get) I prefer to pay a little extra (about $170.00 for oil change, tire rotation, inspection and a loaner) and let the dealer do it. Besides, I drop it off early in the morning, go to work and pick it up at the end of the day. The money I would have saved doing it myself I more than make up for it by going to work. Not to mention that I prefer my work over changing the oil. While I have great respect for those who do it themselves, I would be hesitant to buy a car from such people since I don't know their skill level, if and when they serviced their car, etc, etc. One other note... I've noticed that in markets, such as Southern California, where I'm at, as a result of a lot of competition, the service quality is excellent. In smaller markets that have only one dealer, the quality of the service tends to drop.