mrnizzles

I'm new to the forums, looking to buy a pre-2003 lx470 (I hate the navigation systems), and I'm going to view a 2000 model this Sat w/125K miles and listed for $14k. Would like to know what should I look out for specific to this vehicle/model/year. In pics online, I noticed the drivers side arm rest door trim has a crack in it. This might be a common problem, but I'm still doing research for these vehicles to learn what to look out for. Should I be looking for replacement of specific components outside of normal items, water pump, belts/hoses, cpu codes, etc. Is a compression check necessary? Oil composition test? Radiator/coolant test?

My other car is a 1993 Mazda RX7 that I work on, though I haven't rebuilt the rotary engine, but still I'm very knowledgable on my cars, and I like to do allot of research on what I'm buying.

If I buy it, I'll share pics and experience as well.

Thanks in advance.

hankinid

Start here...100 Series FAQ . You'll see scheduled recommended routine maintenance. You can find a service history for the truck beginning on it's delivery date. Go to Lexus.com and select the owners section. Register a user name and password. Input the VIN and you'll see a history of all services done by Lexus, as well as services recommended but declined by the owner. I'd accept maintenance at other shops, if and only if there's a corresponding receipt.

Inspect the underside of the truck with the underbody shields removed. Look for rust.

Changing the AHC fluid is often overlooked...Toyota recommends every 60K. If the fluid looks black, I'd pass. Heater hose "T's" need changing every 100K at the very least, Toyota doesn't show it in scheduled maintenance, but they will self-destruct...$15 for both and half an hour labor.

Be aware that more than a few rust queens leave the northeast and midwest auctions and are resold west of the rockies. Find one that winters in areas that do not use salt on the roads.

Timing belt should have been changed at 90K, water pump as it's on the way in and out when you do the TB. If it needs doing, you're looking at $800 - $1k at a good indy shop or north of $1K at a dealer.

I insist on a compression test...the "leak down" or "dynamic compression" variety. $100-200 spent on a pre-purchase inspection is a good investment...make sure the shop doing the inspection is not a party to your deal.

An LX without factory nav is a bit like a unicorn. What's the truck's location, generally?

Pics and a trip story would be neat.

mrnizzles

Hey thanks for the speedy reply, this is great info and just what I was looking for. The truck is in Sacramento, and I'm in the SF bay area. From what I've been told has had 3 owners, all in California, and I will be reviewing the Carfax and service history. I'm aware of the rust issues from back east, and I avoid most listings due to that.

This is the listing of the truck:
https://www.kareemautosales.com/inve...ource=cars.com

I will be scheduling an inspection at a local shop of my choosing to go over it in detail. For the price listed, I expect to put additional funds into to get it completely sorted out, I just want to be aware of what I'm getting into, and not take on any severe problems due to previous owner lack of maintenance, like not replacing the fluid for the AHC. I have no problems walking away if it's got any major issue.

mrnizzles

Here is the service history that I downloaded from Lexus.com, thanks for the info on that, very helpful!

hankinid

I can personally recommend A+ Japanese Imports on Industrial Road on San Carlos. Close to 101 so easy in/out. My Dad's neighbor started the business, his sons took it over. If you do the inspection there, tell them Steve in Idaho sent you. Good people and they really know their Toyotas...not to mention a Cruiser head or 2 work there.

Looks like a SoCal truck from the start...also looks like seller had a bunch of recent work done.

I don't see any mention of timing belt service but I did scan the notes quickly. Goofy-ness in drivers side window switches can sometimes be traced to wire shorting out to repeated flexing in the car-to-door wiring harness...you can normally remove the rubber cover like a grommet at each end and take a look at the wiring inside. I also didn't see any mention of AHC fluid change/flush.

mrnizzles

Yeah, the truck came from SoCal, and the dealer that has it now bought it from there. I got the Carfax (attached), and there are 2 issues:

1st one is about damage reported, but not from an accident, so I don't know what the damage was or where it occurred on the vehicle, or how it was repaired. I'm not sure how I can find more details about the damage.

2nd one, an inconsistency in the mileage reported for 1 inspection report. Looks like operator error when entering mileage for smog inspection. All other reports show correct mileage.

The last issue is I can't find service records from Lexus.com after 65,xxx miles.. so I'm concerned about the AHC fluid and timing belt. Other stuff I'm OK with replacing. Would there be an indication on the vehicle itself to see if and when the timing belt had been replaced?

My budget is $20k, so if there is an issue with the AHC and the ride is "bouncy", and the ride height doesn't adjust both up and down, maybe I might just ditch the whole system. My purpose for this vehicle is mostly to go to the mountains, go camping, light to medium off-road use, and long term, maybe overlanding, but nothing extreme.

Also, is the drive train improvements from 2003 on, worth it? Maybe I should be more concerned about that, then an ancient in-dash DVD navigation system.

And I'm familiar with A+ Japanese Imports, I've take my RX7 there and service has been good They won't work on the rotary engine, but I have a separate mechanic who specializes in rotaries so I'm covered, and I only have about 25k on my last rebuild, so I'm good for awhile. I run stock boost levels, so no worries about blowing an Apex seal, lol.

hankinid

After a TB change, tech is supposed to stick a label on the engine with date and mileage noted. Typically, you'll see one on the front of the driver's side cam cover, or on the air cleaner, or on the crossmember that supports the radiator. When new, AHC fluid has a light pink tint that typically changes to light brown and then darker brown over time and mileage. Fast field test for AHC function is to raise the LX to the "High" position, stick masking tape on the AHC reservoir and make a mark. Change the AHC setting to "Low" and make a second mark on the tape. Looking at the tank, you want to see at least 8 graduations between High and Low marks. Difference between marks normally goes up 2 or 3 after a fluid bleed and change, and I change the fluid every 2 years.

If I had it to do over, I'd look for a 100 series LX with the 5-speed trans, but I've zero complaints with our '01...Later trucks also had variable valve timing for a few more hp.

My most fun-to-drive but not too practical was a bugeye AH Sprite with a Mazda rotary engine. Fast as hell and almost as scary. I learned quickly that a heavy foot could kill the rear end over a couple of weeks.

mrnizzles

Excellent info! I was planning on heading out to Sacramento today to look at the truck and inspect based on your instructions, but with the wildfires going on in Norcal, the smoke and air quality is very bad, so I will have to wait until things clear up. In the meantime... I can keep reading, and learning the ins-n-outs. This is what I did back in '05 before I bought my 7. I'm set on a used Lexus, the step up in luxury for sound and comfort even when off-roading suits me just fine I'm in no rush, and these are much easier to find than an unmolested 3rd gen RX7 (FD), so I'll do the diligence needed, it always pays off in the long run.

I might give A+ Japanese Imports a call and ask if they know someone trustworthy in the Sacramento area to do an inspection. The more issues I find, the easier for me to walk down the seller on price

hankinid

Good luck on your search. You could also check out Land Cruisers...more or less identical to the LX less the AHC system. You may find them a bit pricier than the LX, as fewer are exported to North America. Patience is definitely needed when you search for a good 100 series, but Murphy's Law does control here...do not be upset if you find a truck with half the mileage and half the cost about a week after you buy yours.

rmawyer

That's a lot of money for a 2000, particularly with any unknowns and multiple owners....and with more money planned to baseline it.

Could probably find a clean 2005-2007 at $16K-$21K, and that gets you the five-speed transmission and other stuff. AHC is your big item and some good threads on IH8Mud.com to help there.

I'd also check the heater hose Ts at the firewall. May look good, but the hot side could crumble upon handling.

The service history seems to stop in 2008 at low miles, so that's obviously not of much help or impact on your decision.

Ralph @ San Antonio, Texas
2013 LX570 - Stock w/ARB Drawers and Rock Warriors/KO2s (and has seen more dirt than the 470)
2007 LX470 - TJM bumper, Slee Sliders, African Outback Drawers and Cooper AT2s.
(Tentatively For Sale if I can pull the trigger. Circa $21k with $800 of OEM maintenance bits. 140k miles)
1997 LX450 - ARB Bumper and Slee Sliders (Sold)

mrnizzles

Thanks for the input, totally relevant and I'm familiar with firewall side hoses that are aged and pose a serious risk to dumping coolant on the fwy if they burst. It's actually happened to a friend of mine when I was in the car with him, and we hit a big bump in the road going over a section of a bridge and then the engine overheated so fast before we could even pull off to the shoulder. That's why I hate it when sellers/dealers detail the engine bay and coat all the hoses with stuff that makes em look new, when their actually ready to break.

Seems the 5 speed tranny really is worth it, but the AHC isn't, and if the AHC hasn't been maintained regularly then it probably needs to remove and replaced with LC suspension parts. I think I'm gonna pass on this 2000, but I still want to go see it, have it inspected and learn how to go through this process talking with people and see whats what. I've read the comparison of 2003 models and the upgrades it has to the drive-train and suspension from previous versions. I think I would be making a mistake to trade the DVD navigation not in earlier versions, since I don't like it, for other necessities found in later models.

About the engine compression, what are considered "normal" ranges/values?

For my RX7, 120 psi is considered "good" for each rotor face, both front and rear rotors. A fresh rebuilt engine should have a bit more than that. When the engine is running, a working boost gauge should show anywhere from -20 to -14 psi as vacuum.

mrnizzles

This same dealership also has a 2006 LC, white, with 111,982 miles listed for $24,780, that came from TX, so I feel it would be rust-free. Detailed service history with multiple owners, but the first 2 were corporate fleet with detailed service history. Carfax looks much better than the 2000 LX-470 above as well.

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/d...5914/overview/

Carfax: https://www.carfax.com/VehicleHistory/p/Report.cfx?vin=JTEHT05J362081757&partner=CDM_O

Also, cars out here in Cali are more expensive, everything out here is A typical 1 bdr apartment, 750 sq ft. goes for around $2,500 to $3,000 minimum on the west side of the SF bay !! Nothing under $2k anywhere within 70-80 miles of SF.

rmawyer

hankinid

With all plugs removed, 192 psi is optimum, 142 psi minimum, and no more than 14 psi variation between cylinders...info per the 2001 shop manual, page EM-3.

That said, I'd still run a dynamic compression (leak down) test. Remove radiator cap before proceeding.