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LS400 Rear Deck Subwoofer Mounting

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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 05:11 PM
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Default LS400 Rear Deck Subwoofer Mounting

Alrighty guys (and gals) I'm brainstorming ideas for my next subwoofer setup and now I'm considering mounting them in the rear deck, as opposed to a trunk box. In my current setup, I'm running a 10" Sundown Audio SD-2 in a sealed box which i centered in the trunk and pointing "outward" (in other words, you will see the subwoofer cone facing you when you open the trunk). The sound quality is awesome, don't get me wrong, just that with the OEM subwoofer, I could get nice rumbly bass at lower, more comfortable listening volumes. With this setup, I have to max out my volume, bass **** and, in some cases, my head unit's bass boost in order to get that effect, at maximum volume. It sounds awesome for demoing, outside of the car, but I want that effect in the car, where it counts.

So, here are some configurations I'm thinking of and I want your opinions on which one would be more feasible/better sounding/louder:
  • 1 Image Dynamics IDMAX10D4 v.4 10" Sealed @ 1200 watts
  • 2 Image Dynamics IDQ10D4 v.4 10" Sealed @ 600 watts apiece
  • 2 Sundown Audio E8v3 8" Infinite Baffle @ 180 watts apiece
  • 2 Sundown Audio SA-10 10" Sealed @ 600 watts apiece
  • 1 Sundown Audio SA-12 12" Sealed @ 600 watts

Power will be coming from the following based on power ratings:
  • 1-700 watts RMS - Crescendo Audio 1100.4 with channels 3 and 4 bridged
  • 701+ watts RMS - Alpine PDX-M12

Another concern of mine is the amount of weight that will be on the rear deck as the aforementioned subwoofers are in the 15-25 lb. (per speaker) neighborhood, so some ideas on how to strengthen the rear deck are equally welcome.

My music of choice is mainly bass-heavy Electronic music (think Drum & Bass, Electro House, Dubstep, Trap) and Hip Hop/Rap with the occasional Rock/Metal and JPop (JDM music ftw).

Last edited by Sc0pe; Oct 20, 2013 at 02:28 AM.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 06:58 PM
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why is there no tuned, ported option here?
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by PureDrifter
why is there no tuned, ported option here?
To be honest, I have no idea on how the process of "tuning" an enclosure to a specific frequency works, should I head that route, I would be having the box built by a local professional, so he could probably help me figure out which frequency would be ideal at that point.

Last edited by Sc0pe; Oct 14, 2013 at 07:26 PM.
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 07:26 PM
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Something is wrong in your setup. You should not have to max out your bass volume to get a good spl in the car.
You are getting cancellation of soundwaves. Is your OEM sub out of the car?... (Rear deck open to cabin)?
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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by lev00221
Something is wrong in your setup. You should not have to max out your bass volume to get a good spl in the car.
You are getting cancellation of soundwaves. Is your OEM sub out of the car?... (Rear deck open to cabin)?
Yeah, I removed my OEM subwoofer and it did remedy my problem slightly. As far as the setup goes, everything is matched to the subwoofer (e.g. the box is per manufacturer specification [well, as close as one can get with a prefab]). The only issue I might see is the subwoofer isn't getting as much power as it should be from the amplifier (rated for 500w RMS @ 4 ohms) which shouldn't be a problem as the power wire is adequate (4 AWG OFC cable from Knukonceptz) and I'm not running crazy impedances like 1 ohm. My gains/LPF/etc. is all set accordingly as well.

Last edited by Sc0pe; Oct 14, 2013 at 08:02 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 07:15 AM
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Some questions.

1. Exactly what are you trying to achieve?
2, What is your budget?
3. Are you open to subwoofer brands other than Sundown? For example:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-JL-AUDIO-10W3v3-2-10-W3v3-SUBWOOFERS-2-OHM-SVC-CAR-WOOFERS-SUB-PAIR-/200973102263?pt=Car_Subwoofers_Enclosures&hash=item2ecaee2cb7

Last edited by EmpPenguin; Oct 15, 2013 at 07:23 AM.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 08:16 AM
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You don't need to change your subwoofer. You need to change the installation. If the sub is at the rear of the trunk firing backwards then the woofer is very near the hole in your rear deck. You are getting cancellation because the sound waves are radiating into the cabin directly from the woofer and also from reflected sound off the rear of the trunk (overly simplified, obviously). These are arriving at different times (out of phase) and are cancelling each other. I would take the sub box while it it hooked up and try moving it around in the trunk. Aim it in different directions and you will notice that the sound changes significantly. You might try in one of the rear corners facing rearward (yes, toward your tail lights) or facing in towards the opposite side of the car. Anyway, move it around and you will find which way it sounds best. I had a similar installation an Acura TL and I kept the rear deck sealed for the best sound. You only need to feel the sub bass so a sealed rear deck will not impair sound quality.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:15 AM
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with a sealed box in the trunk, removing the OEM sub essentially makes the whole trunk space a bandpass box doesn't it? always wondered that but of course almost always the trunk is much larger than the box which makes everything grossly disproportionate.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by EmpPenguin
Some questions.

1. Exactly what are you trying to achieve?
2, What is your budget?
3. Are you open to subwoofer brands other than Sundown? For example:
2 New JL Audio 10W3V3 2 10" W3V3 Subwoofers 2 Ohm SVC Car Woofers Sub Pair 699440921503 | eBay
1. Essentially a system which sounds nice but has boosting potential. Another way you could put it is decent sound quality/SPL with minimum trunk presence (why I'm kind of leaning towards the IB setup.
2. I would prefer to not go over $300 for the subwoofers.
3. I guess I could say that I am, but I'm leaning towards Sundown for their bang to buck ratio. I have had some experience with JL - The owner of a local audio shop demo'd his Chrysler Pacifica for me and he had a ported 10W7 which was completely bonkers (my shirt was flapping around on the lows).

Originally Posted by lev00221
You don't need to change your subwoofer. You need to change the installation. If the sub is at the rear of the trunk firing backwards then the woofer is very near the hole in your rear deck. You are getting cancellation because the sound waves are radiating into the cabin directly from the woofer and also from reflected sound off the rear of the trunk (overly simplified, obviously). These are arriving at different times (out of phase) and are cancelling each other. I would take the sub box while it it hooked up and try moving it around in the trunk. Aim it in different directions and you will notice that the sound changes significantly. You might try in one of the rear corners facing rearward (yes, toward your tail lights) or facing in towards the opposite side of the car. Anyway, move it around and you will find which way it sounds best. I had a similar installation an Acura TL and I kept the rear deck sealed for the best sound. You only need to feel the sub bass so a sealed rear deck will not impair sound quality.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Good luck!
Damn lol, thanks for the detailed response! I'll definitely give that tail light position a whirl. Good thing I gave my wires the most slack where they connect to the box This way, I can move the box around with about ~5 feet of play, minimum.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 12:04 PM
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Keep us updated on how this goes because I was also thinking about replacing my sub as well. I would be interested in knowing what your results were.

I actually like the stock sound with the nakamichi system. However, I would like to get just a lil more power out of the sub. I don't know if that means adding some type of processor to help "exaggerate the lows" or just changing the sub.
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Old Oct 15, 2013 | 04:32 PM
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Refer to this thread for my blog on what I did for my stereo. Toward the end of the thread we discussed subwoofer placement, and I included a picture. My subwoofer is driving only 350 watts and I am running four full-range speakers in the doors. I usually cross over the speakers, but the system I am running now sounds so good and clean that there is no need for it.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 01:35 AM
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Today I moved, and listened, to the subwoofer in various positions inside the trunk and have come to the conclusion that rearward facing is best (most output in the cabin). Also did some measuring and realized that you will run into clearance issues if mounting anything deeper than 4" (with a large cutout diameter) due to the gas tank. I've abandoned the idea of deck-mounting anything outside of an Infinite Baffle configuration.

Also, updated the setups list (added and removed things) with some offerings from Image Dynamics. Figured why not check out their subwoofers, as I will be running their highly praised CTX65 components and coaxials for my door speakers down the road. Their subwoofers have received praise across audio forums for their SQ capabilities and SPL potential (well, the IDMAX on that last bit anyways).

Last edited by Sc0pe; Oct 20, 2013 at 02:30 AM.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Sc0pe
Today I moved, and listened, to the subwoofer in various positions inside the trunk and have come to the conclusion that rearward facing is best (most output in the cabin). Also did some measuring and realized that you will run into clearance issues if mounting anything deeper than 4" (with a large cutout diameter) due to the gas tank. I've abandoned the idea of deck-mounting anything outside of an Infinite Baffle configuration.

Also, updated the setups list (added and removed things) with some offerings from Image Dynamics. Figured why not check out their subwoofers, as I will be running their highly praised CTX65 components and coaxials for my door speakers down the road. Their subwoofers have received praise across audio forums for their SQ capabilities and SPL potential (well, the IDMAX on that last bit anyways).
Just do what I did and showed you in pm :P bandpass set up, ported directly to the open cabin. I'm gonna change it up again and go from two 10" jl to a single one. Reason being is I want to have some extra trunk space
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 11:06 AM
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My setup is still not done, but I have a custom built box with two 10's mounted in the rear deck. The subs that I currently have are kickers and are not the right sub for the box, but they still sound OK... I plan on running the RF P3 shallow mounts as they work really well off of about a 1/2 cubic foot space. The kickers that I currently have were just my mock up subs and are recommended for 1.5 cubic box. I'm not a professional, but I really think with the right skills and knowledge about subs and the cubic space they need you could come up with a quality setup with a box buiilt into the rear deck.
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Old Oct 20, 2013 | 11:40 AM
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I have 2 6x9 JL audio's in the rear deck...2 5.25 jl's in the rear doors..2 jl 5.25 with tweeters in the front doors...750 watt kicker 5 way amp running 1 12 kicker woofer in a pre made box made for that woofer..hooked up to an eclipse 7 inch double din that not only plays dvd's but I also have my backup camera hooked up as well..i can drive,turn on the backup camera to see whats behind me..or watch a dvd while im driving..obviously my girlfriend watches while I drive..anyways my system hits very well and I didn't spend no where near 2800 for everything from sonic electronix
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