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Code P1083-HCAC Valve Stuck Open (LS600HL)

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Old May 24, 2016 | 07:58 AM
  #1  
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Default Code P1083-HCAC Valve Stuck Open (LS600HL)

Hello Lexus Community. I am the proud owner of a 2008 LS600hl with 141,000 miles. I love the car, but the check engine light is now on permanently and the estimated repair charge from my lexus dealership is outrageously expensive ($7563 plus Tax). Here is the official diagnosis and recommendation.

"Code P1083 - HCAC Valve Stuck Open in Bank 2 - Recommend Replacing Y- Pipe With HC Absorber - Possibly May Need Exhaust 2 Sensors with Exhaust Gaskets - $7563 + Tax."

I love the car, but can't afford this repair yet I can't stand seeing the Check Engine Light.

I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks!!!!
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Old May 24, 2016 | 08:13 AM
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Ridiculous! I would have to continue driving it with the check engine light on or upgrader to a new model. I know I'm not willing to pay that much to have it repaired. You might try an independent shop.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 08:38 AM
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Ouch, what is the HCAC?

Expensive hybrids are flat-out scary to me. It's one thing to repair a $25k Prius, but cripes the liability of a $100k hybrid.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 09:37 AM
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I believe this was the same issue another hybrid member had recently that posted here. Needless to say, so glad I dumped my 600hL. May want to look at this post I found with a simple search on P1083.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-...-ls-600hl.html

Also, I believe the Carista App or Techstream can reset that light for you ;-)

Last edited by CJITTY; May 24, 2016 at 10:03 AM.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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Assuming this failure is the same as the others in that other thread, that part fails like clockwork at enormous expense.

Didn't someone else just buy a used hybrid and posted about it here. I wonder if his was pre or post failure and if it was pre, ouch to that poor soul.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 09:17 PM
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Yeah...this is painful. I've had it reset 3-4 times. The first time it stayed off for a couple months, but now it seems permanent. No apparent impact on performance but I hate seeing the check engine light and for a fully dealer maintained vehicle it's unacceptable to live with a CEL.

I purchased the car for $53k in 2011 with 50k miles so at least I didn't get slammed with the full load and it still looks great.

Thanks Lexus community.....I have to figure this one out. I will keep you updated.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 09:25 PM
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Cut a small piece of electrical tape and put it over the check engine light bulb on the instrument cluster so it isn't glowing in your face, then just get back to enjoying life. I've had customers who didn't have the money or want to do the repairs and I would tell them it's your car just cover the light then. Many did and drove another 100k no problem. Emission testing areas are another story if they require the light to function correctly. In Denver early on your light had to work right or you failed. Then after a few years it changed to the light could stay on and if you passed the tailpipe test you still passed emissions. Just a couple years ago they went back to the light must work correctly for you to pass.

Last edited by Kennyr44; May 24, 2016 at 09:42 PM.
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Old May 25, 2016 | 03:48 AM
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Call Lexus corporate and see if they can offer help. If I'm not mistaken, others were able to negotiate a discount on repairs by them paying for parts and you the labor, especially since this seems to be a common problem. Be sure to mention that.
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Old May 26, 2016 | 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Kennyr44
Cut a small piece of electrical tape and put it over the check engine light bulb on the instrument cluster so it isn't glowing in your face, then just get back to enjoying life. I've had customers who didn't have the money or want to do the repairs and I would tell them it's your car just cover the light then. Many did and drove another 100k no problem. Emission testing areas are another story if they require the light to function correctly. In Denver early on your light had to work right or you failed. Then after a few years it changed to the light could stay on and if you passed the tailpipe test you still passed emissions. Just a couple years ago they went back to the light must work correctly for you to pass.
I thought about this idea, but instead of tape a picture of my kids. However, yesterday I received the emissions testing notice and I know it won't pass the test with a Check Engine Light on....test is due 7/31 so I have to make a decision.
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Old Oct 10, 2018 | 02:22 PM
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Default Same problem

Working on it now
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Old Apr 13, 2019 | 07:11 PM
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Originally Posted by argonfatl
Working on it now
i dropped exhaust pipes and noticed that one of valves on top of absorbers don’t move at all. After putting half can of WD 40 it started to move. I will let you know if it's permanent fix
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by argonfatl
i dropped exhaust pipes and noticed that one of valves on top of absorbers don’t move at all. After putting half can of WD 40 it started to move. I will let you know if it's permanent fix
I have the same issue with the hydrocarbon... whatever happened to your WD40 effort? Were you able to get the valve unstuck from a always open position? Thanks in advance!
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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 11:20 AM
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You need to use copper grease to prevent it from happening again.

3-in-1 44607 300ml Pro Anti-Seize Copper Grease

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Old Nov 18, 2020 | 01:33 PM
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Thank you for that advice.
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Old Nov 20, 2020 | 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by argonfatl
i dropped exhaust pipes and noticed that one of valves on top of absorbers don’t move at all. After putting half can of WD 40 it started to move. I will let you know if it's permanent fix
From your experience do you know if it would be possible to grease it without dropping the exhaust pipe ? Do you need to cut open a hole in the pipe ?
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