LS - 4th Gen (2007-2017) Discussion topics related to the current flagship models LS460, LS460L and LS600H

LS460, smart purchase?

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Old 07-09-18, 07:21 PM
  #31  
sha4000
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Check out a company called lightstream online. They give very good rates for older cars as long as your credit is good.
Old 07-09-18, 08:03 PM
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Richyb1
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I have been watching this thread and think this. If you have purchased a car that is 8 to 10 years old it has already depreciated as much as it is going to. Assuming it was a 72,000 MSRP in 2008, as long as it is well taken
care of, 15,000 or 14,000 is not too bad when you think of what your getting. Then enjoy it. You can buy warranties for a 2008 Lexus........
Old 07-09-18, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by sdhayesky
i want to buy this beast. what is a fair offer to make? doc fee is like $650, which they won't waive. I know it needs rotors.
Don't buy it then, $650 doc fee is utterly ridiculous, on the higher end in the segment especially on a car priced under 15K and it needs new rotors too which will not be cheap unless you do them yourself. They may not be waiving the fee because they think you are too interested. Tell them the doc fee is way too high if they get back to you and you won't pay it or say the overall price has to come down if you are going to also have to pay $650 for some simple paper work.
Old 07-09-18, 08:31 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by UDel
Don't buy it then, $650 doc fee is utterly ridiculous, on the higher end in the segment especially on a car priced under 15K and it needs new rotors too which will not be cheap unless you do them yourself. They may not be waiving the fee because they think you are too interested. Tell them the doc fee is way too high if they get back to you and you won't pay it or say the overall price has to come down if you are going to also have to pay $650 for some simple paper work.
I cannot disagree. Offer 10,000 and be as ridiculous as they are. Doc fees are just the paperwork fees and are stupidly high. Make them fix the rotors as a safety issue.
Old 07-10-18, 03:17 AM
  #35  
sdhayesky
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as bad as I want this car, I am not going to buy it at the price. Plus, its more difficult to work out of for what I do. This one also has not had any of the front suspension work done according to the service records. i'd rather buy one with higher miles that has had everything done via private party than deal with dealership shenanigans. I think I have decided to just ride out my lease, and buy in cash
when it's time. Losing money and financing an older, expensive car is just dumb.
Old 07-10-18, 04:46 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by sdhayesky
as bad as I want this car, I am not going to buy it at the price. Plus, its more difficult to work out of for what I do. This one also has not had any of the front suspension work done according to the service records. i'd rather buy one with higher miles that has had everything done via private party than deal with dealership shenanigans. I think I have decided to just ride out my lease, and buy in cash
when it's time. Losing money and financing an older, expensive car is just dumb.
Yeah good decision and I'll tell you what...keep an eye on that car, I bet it'll drop quite a bit before you know it.

But the lack of suspension repair is a deal breaker...that will run you a couple grand, easy. So that must be factored in with any of these cars you look at, and you should be able to use it to your advantage if you can replace them yourself...it'll give you a little bargaining power (not much but a little).
Old 07-10-18, 05:12 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Richyb
I have been watching this thread and think this. If you have purchased a car that is 8 to 10 years old it has already depreciated as much as it is going to. Assuming it was a 72,000 MSRP in 2008, as long as it is well taken
care of, 15,000 or 14,000 is not too bad when you think of what your getting. Then enjoy it. You can buy warranties for a 2008 Lexus........
I disagree, unfortunately the car's $72,000 MSRP means nothing now. And if he pays $15,000 for an 08 he is most certainly goin to lose value...like overnight. Simply because that car still has a long way to go in terms of depreciation. Seventy- two thousand or not, that car will become a $3,000 Craigslist special soon enough. I'd be willing to bet that he'd lose half his value - easily - in two years alone.

I just traded in my 07, it had 178,000 miles on it. The sales guy told me flat out that these cars are selling at the auction for $5,000 with that type of mileage on them. Doesn't matter what type of condition it's in, they look at year, then mileage, then the rest they hash out (or ignore). And I believed him 100% simply because I was informed of that going into the deal - I did a little research before by talking to friends who have used car liscences and they told me basically the same thing. I ended up settling on $7,500 for my trade...or was it $7,000? Can't remember, but all I do remember was that $5,000 figure wasn't enough for me to make the deal, so they bumped it up (knowing they d lose the sale). I asked them why they bumped up the number, he said, well it'll go right to the auction, we won't sell a car that old here, people can't get the financing, and we don't need the headaches. Your car probably needs some work, I can hear a few noises. The owner looked at your car, he told me to just give you the $7,000 because he thinks he can make it up tomorrow. We are a high volume dealer, we sell five of these Chevy Silverados a day. It's Saturday, it's raining. Tomorrow you'll meet with our finance manager, he'll try to sell you eveythting from undercoating, to an extended warranty. Knowing you, you'll tell him no. Doesn't matter, when you pick up your truck they'll be five of them waiting new car prep and heading out the door.

I'm sure the guy made his money, they always do, but he was pretty candid with me towards the end. And of course he made sure to tell me to fill out the online surveys because those things seem to be the most important things these places worry about nowadays. So I did. I was pretty happy overall (and I hate buying cars).

All these cars end up in one of two places some day...the junk yard (where they're picked to pieces) or Mexico, the Dominican or Jamaica (where they're driven to 500,000 miles with check engine lights flashing the whole way). Three coats of window tint, a couple seat covers, a new set of rims, bald tires, and bad brakes. That thing will enjoy the rest of its life in the hot sun and dusty roads.
Old 07-10-18, 07:34 AM
  #38  
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Thanks for the extended version and I think your right. I also think you put a lot of thought into it and I appreciate it.
I also think if the vehicle is in nice condition and well taken care of it has to be worth more, at least to the individual.
In the case of a warranty, yes you can get them for any car, yes they are expensive but with a complicated car like a
Lexus maybe they are warranted. I really guess it is up to the individual and what he wants to do. I paid 15,400 for mine with
93,000 Miles. The dealer put on new Shocks in the rear, took out two door dings, new front brakes, 90,000 mile service, Total
was 3,400 for work done. No paper fees, they were in the price of the car. I know it will depreciate but so am I......Lol.
Besides I like the Telios Wheels and new tires........
Old 07-10-18, 09:29 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Richyb
With good credit at even 6 percent, payment should be close to 310.00 to finance whole thing at 60 months. Assuming 14,000 is price.. IMHO
Rich
No lender with your best interest in mind would finance an 11 year old vehicle for 60 months. Granted, your best interest is seldom in the best interest of the lender, but I'd walk away from anyone suggesting a 60-month note on an 11 year old depreciating asset.
Old 07-10-18, 09:36 AM
  #40  
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I just ordered a 2018 Tesla model S to replace my 2007 LS460. It just hit 100K miles and is very clean, however.
This model year is infamous for having a “sticky dashboard & side panels”. As discussed elsewhere, the material used has a tendency to get extremely sticky if left in the sun too long. A bigger problem in Florida than other places but even here in Georgia when it gets hot the effect is borderline gross. Lexus acknowledged the problem years ago and agreed to replace the panels when parts became available. Problem. Parts may never be available. My dash was finally replaced after many years but side panels are still sticky when hot.
A few months ago the car caught the well known HVAC bug. The one where the system is doa for the first few minutes after starting the car, then may or may not come alive, (documented elsewhere in this forum). Dealer would be glad to replace the wiring harness for a couple thousand $, no thanks.
Then that expensive Mark Levenson sound system died. Apparently another common failure point. Since the cell phone, navigation audio guidance and entertainment system all rely on audio, they are non-functional. Yes, the amp can be repaired or possibly replaced ($2500.00) if still available but it’s disappointing that these issues seem to be somewhat common to the brand. I will say... it’s one of the nicest riding cars I’ve ever owned.
Tesla takes trade-ins and offered $9K. I think I’ll take it.
Old 07-10-18, 10:36 AM
  #41  
sdhayesky
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in case anyone cares, here is the car in question: https://www.lexusoflexington.com/use...49d18a55ad.htm
it had the head unit replaced under warranty a while back.ha, and yes, the sales manager actually suggested a 60 month note.
Old 07-10-18, 11:18 AM
  #42  
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Tesla takes trade-ins and offered $9K. I think I’ll take it.

---------------------


I would take that $9000 wholesale price too, who cares if he marked it up and makes 4-5 thousand dollars, you got out of it with no hassle!

Congratulations on the Tesla decision, should be a fun and quite interesting new driving experience.
Old 07-11-18, 03:46 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by UDel
Don't buy it then, $650 doc fee is utterly ridiculous, on the higher end in the segment especially on a car priced under 15K and it needs new rotors too which will not be cheap unless you do them yourself. They may not be waiving the fee because they think you are too interested. Tell them the doc fee is way too high if they get back to you and you won't pay it or say the overall price has to come down if you are going to also have to pay $650 for some simple paper work.
Yea, I noticed my car when I got it, had a $395 fee... $250 was car prep fee...I was like WTF... I DID get them to go $400 off though and had to fight hard for that one...

Never again. A dealer should make a car look as nice as possible to sell to you, so THEY can make their profit, not make you pay for that.. I can see a $50-100 for a document fee (as it's a lot of paper work in some states) but, $650, they are nuts..
Old 07-11-18, 05:57 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by DavidinCT
Yea, I noticed my car when I got it, had a $395 fee... $250 was car prep fee...I was like WTF... I DID get them to go $400 off though and had to fight hard for that one...

Never again. A dealer should make a car look as nice as possible to sell to you, so THEY can make their profit, not make you pay for that.. I can see a $50-100 for a document fee (as it's a lot of paper work in some states) but, $650, they are nuts..
Those fees that are not included in the price and normally not listed are just to drive the price up higher once a buyer has already negotiated and decided on a car and they think they have you over the barrel to slip them in often at final signing. It is shady and dishonest and should not even be legal, $50-$100 for paperwork or prep fee I can live with as long as they tell me that while I am negotiating. Some states limit the doc fee dealers can charge, wish all did.

My dad got nailed from the dealership for $700 in extra fees after they negotiated on the final price, hit him with them during final signing, my dad was furious and was not going to get the car but they gave him a good deal, he needed the car, and they might have knocked a little off. I said he needs to tell them the final out the door price and say he is writing 1 check for that price before picks the car up and will leave if that price changes. It worked that time, the car came needing a pretty major claying/correction because it sat out so long so he would have been extra furious if they tried charging him some prep fee nonsense.

Used car dealerships are some of the worst. Over the months of looking I have had a few dealerships jack the price over $1000 over list or a number we came to by the time they added all the tack ons and that is not even counting sales tax, I had a dealerships by the time they tacked on all the extra fees and charges the price went up almost $2000 from what it is listed at/we somewhat agreed to and that is not even counting the state tax being added in. I was like how in the world do you go from listing a car for one price to it now going to cost me almost $2000 more and that is not even counting state sales tax, no wonder it just sits on the lot for so long and nobody buys it.
Old 07-11-18, 06:03 PM
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Originally Posted by sdhayesky
in case anyone cares, here is the car in question: https://www.lexusoflexington.com/use...49d18a55ad.htm
it had the head unit replaced under warranty a while back.ha, and yes, the sales manager actually suggested a 60 month note.
Looks okay for a 2007 but from the pics it looks like the front end has a lot of chips and needs a repaint, drivers door looks like there is some damage/wear,chips on the pillar/stripping, some nicks on some wheels, steering wheel is fading, etc. Not something to command top dollar/no negotiation and who knows what could be going on with the suspension. I think you made a good decision to look elsewhere if they won't work with you.


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