When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Wires and plug
I know this is an old thread. But I tried searching for the last few days for the wire color. I accidentally pulled the wire out the plug and now I don't know which wires goes to which. Could you post pictures of the plug with the wire showing? It'll help me out a lot
I am having clearance issues while using an E8 torx socket and ratchet when trying to remove the top front torx stud on the alternator due to the wiring harness. Can anyone tell me if I can pull out the wiring harness clip circled in the attached photo? If so, can I just pry it off with a flat head screwdriver? Wiring harness clip Top front alternator torx bolt
Yes, you can gently move it off the stud. Make sure you do not create stress around connectors.
Thanks. I have one other question. While reconnecting the radiator hose to the thermostat, I noticed a bump on one side of the plastic that the hose slips over. Should the hose slip over the bump or sit just below it? I’ve attached a photo for reference.
No, that is a hose stop. It is far as the hose goes. It is also an alignment mark for the hose. OEM hoses have painted strips on them with different colors to indicated direction with respect to the engine and mark positions on the receiving end.
Just did mine at 116k
did the belt pulleys hoses and water pump too since it was all torn down.
my bottom bolts were pretty seized no amount of PB blaster , brake cleaner or acetone worked.
a minute with the torch not on the bolt but on the alternator base and bingo that stubborn witch was off
It was about a 3 to 4 hour job with documenting photos for this post. The alternator was the original, I'm pushing 140k. Symptoms are fairly normal, all happened in a day with cranking becoming weaker and weaker as the alternator gave out and started to drain the battery. Ultimately it ran out of juice and didn't start.
How did you remove the upper bolts? No room there to get a socket on and no visibilty to back bolt.
As the alternator wears out whenever the engine is running, it's more about hours than miles. If you do lots of city driving, the failure miles will be lower than highway miles. Makes sense?
Thank you for the detailed instructions and pictures. According to the symptoms I believe my alternator just went out (2007 LS460) and I plan to attempt the repair DIY. Super sketchy as the brakes and power steering go out with it. I was turning through an intersection and almost collided with first the car in front of me as the brake pedal wouldn't depress, then a another as the power steering went out. For **** sacks couldn't they make it different. I had a similar incident months after I purchased the car when my brake actuator when out... I go to brake for a car slowly turning right and the pedal just wouldn't press down. I had to swerve into the on-coming lane to avoid rear ending the slow turner. Between these two incidents and the Mark Levinson amplifier going out twice, I'm just about over these luxury (price) brand cars. I had a 97LS400 that was a tank. I sold it at 290,000 miles for $3k, it was still running super strong.
Last edited by steedls400; Oct 2, 2023 at 02:35 AM.
Went ahead and used the directions above to remove the alternator. I didn't remove the skid plate but was still able to get the alternator out. It was a pain in the butt to loosen the back bolts though… I would suggest that removing the skid plate to make it easier to access. Once I pulled the alternator it was clear what the culprit was, it appears the burnt out parts (pictured) are part of the coil assembly. The OEM Coil Assembly (Part Number: 2736038130) is $1300. A new OEM alternator is only $400-$500. Can any one tell me why this would happen (burning)? I am concerned that if I replace it the same thing would happen again.
Last edited by steedls400; Oct 2, 2023 at 02:39 AM.
