DavidinCT

OK, Now that I have not gotten a chance to DRIVE it yet. I pulled off the tire in question and put in the spare tire. The spare is a full size, it still has the paint on the treads, so I am assuming this is new and unused. I noticed weights inside it, so assuming it's been balanced at one point.

With the spare mounted with the car off the groundIf I freely tried to spin the tire wile it was off the ground there was very minor scraping sound (breaks)and it was not free flow but, that is to be expected (I had a LS430 with RWD and noticed this on the front), it was not hard to turn. Up and down play, none at all. left and right, it's hard to say, I got a little play but, it seems like the other wheel was turning/moving too, it was not free moving.

Waiting for the delivery guy to show up, and after that I need to do a few things, I'll do my tests and report back.

Thanks for everyone's help so far.

mckellyb

That sounds like every bad front wheel bearing I've ever had, which is a few at this point in life. I bet you start to hear it around 40 MPH...

So it is louder when you're on a left-hand sweeper, eh? Hmmmm. Do you have any right-hand long turns which are similar to compare/contrast? This would help with which side it is. In theory, the bad one should be louder if it's on the outside of the turn, because it's being loaded. However...this doesn't work 100% of the time.

Whichever one it is, BAM, Amazon to the rescue!!!!! BTW, I still have the front assembly for the '05 STS I never did replace. It made that noise for years, just never got around to replacing the front one. Did the rear one on that same side, though. Again, not a new car, who knows what the history really was.

Right: https://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA590265-Front-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B00A0JFLFU/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491089359&vehicle=2008-75-5862-105--1-6-7-8307-2584--1-2838--1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=2008%3Alexus%3Als460&keywords=wheel+bearing+hub+assembly-front

Left: https://www.amazon.com/Timken-HA590270-Front-Bearing-Assembly/dp/B00A0JFPME/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1491089359&vehicle=2008-75-5862-105--1-6-7-8307-2584--1-2838--1-0&sr=1-2&ymm=2008%3Alexus%3Als460&keywords=wheel+bearing+hub+assembly-front


These are super-easy to replace, a few bolts and the ABS plug. You can do it yourself if you can change a tire, but change both of them for the cost of one OEM part, uninstalled. Timken is good quality, too. I'm frugal, so I'd get one, then figure out which one isn't 'right', and wait for the other to die (which might never happen...that wheel might have clipped a curb at some point, or something like that).

Also, look at the first review on either of these. Sound familiar?

In fact, the more I think about it, and I've listened to your recording a half-dozen times, I'd put money on a front wheel bearing. There's an outside chance it's a rear one, but that's less-likely if it really does sound like it's coming from the front.

This is the beauty of a very, very quiet car...it's easier to pinpoint noises which shouldn't be there.

DavidinCT

Yep, I do a right hand turn (a hard one) when exiting the highway going to work. No question the left one is far more detailed and noticeable/louder. It comes from the drivers front. Yea, I do drive it but, I had my wife drive it and I sat in the back seat on the passengers side (love the "L" back seat !), and it was clear even from there that it was come from the front drivers side.

I get a little feeling in the wheel/petals at around 15-25 but, I really start hearing it around 40...right on the button there...


If you drove the car, you would know. I know it's hard to tell from the video exactly where it's coming from but, I would say front drivers side and be very confident about it. I really need a phone that can record DTS-HD 7.1 audio...that would of helped, huh ???

Riddle me this as you say super easy. You have to take the rotor off and how hard is that with out messing with the pads and all that ?

For people watching this thread, I did change the tire to the spare. There was NO CHANGE at all, so maybe they actually balanced the tires... shocked a dealer MIGHT of done what they said..

The more and more on this thread, it's seeming like it is a front wheel bearing, and looking at $230-350 for the part, if I NEED to bring it to a shop that charges about $80-90 an hour, it should not be any more than $150 to install. So under $500 fix... Interesting...

Question... as it seems it's a wheel bearing...Is this a safety issue on the car ?

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

I wouldn't return the vehicle for that noise if you are really in love with it.

If it gets worse turning either direction its probably the bearing, If you got the car for a good price and they aren't willing to cover the cost of the part id just eat it and move on

Just take it to a local tech and pay them for a half hour diagnosis , and that should make your decision easier

Id bet its either a bubble/defect in the tire or a wheel bearing , both pretty minor issues

DavidinCT

After doing the reading, It's not the tire or the rim. I swapped it with the full size spare. The paint was still on the treads (never used) and it appears to be balanced (as it had weights). I don't think it's the breaks or rotor (they spin fine when off the ground)

After putting the spare on, I took it for a ride, got it up to about 60mph, no change, still as loud as ever. I'm down to the bearing now. It's agreed with my wife as well, she tried to sit in the back and in the passenger's seat, she confirms the sound is coming from the drivers front.

This car is in great shape, as I said, I looked over 4 cars (L models), all within a 200 range where I live, they were otherwise expensive or really beat on but, none were in the shape (body and inside) of the car I got. Unless I am planning to fly out and drive home, this is about the best I am going to do. Not that I am disappointed, this car is PERFECT, accept for this major issue...

I figure I will order one and have it shipped in, I need to find out exactly how to get the breaks off but, otherwise, it does not look like a very hard thing to swap out.

Deciding if I am going to just "eat the cost", I paid about market value on the car, would not discount it and I saw this problem on the test drive and told them it needed to be fixed, I was told it was "better" and "a tech took it for a drive and said "what noise ?" " It was 100% clear they did nothing to address the issue. Then they just try to quiet me by offering me a refund and telling me "their tech could not fix the issue" and wont fix the car.

Getting really upset and feeling like they just want to get rid of me by offering me a refund and not fixing the car...

DavidinCT

Got off the phone with the dealer, told them the issue, I was told again, they will not repair the car, they offered me a full refund on the car, this is all they will do. I guess it's more than most people will do if they have a problem a few days after buying a car. Still very upset about this but, anyway, I need to deal with it myself.

SO, is there a way to 100% confirm where it's coming from ?

I saw that there is some that were pulled off a totaled car for really cheap, I know it's not the best option but, it would make it really cheap to deal with and make sure that is the issue.

IS there a step by step process on how to swap out the wheel bearing ? I know the whole break setup is different than the LS430 that I have done in the past, not sure exactly how to get the break off with out touching the pads, or do I have pull everything out ?

GHARP57

Well since the Dealer wants to be a stick in the mud, I would leave a negative review that shows them where they faulted and the simple requests you made. I wouldn't go down the road and say screw them, screw this, they are the worst ever. I would give negative and constructive criticism on your dealing with them so the next customer who reads the reviews takes that account on where they purchase their next car.

Once you take the rim off the caliper should still have 2 bolts holding it to the knuckle. The pads should easily come out of the calipers. You could mark on the back side of the pads with a grease pen or sharpie so you don't but the pads in backwards. From there it is taking the 4 bolts out of the hub that mount it to the knuckle. Replace and re-install.


Edit* If you really wanted to I would speak with the GM of the dealer, not the sales manager or service manager, the GM. Usually the GM cares very much about customer service and where or not you are leaving negative views and having a poor experience with either Sales or Service. You can definitely make headway with the GM if you act very professional with them and limit the amount of expletives you use.

DavidinCT

Dont worry, will leave a poor review but, NOT till they are done with what they need to do and I was talking to the GM, I dont play around with the sales people when I have a problem, I went right to the top (infact I sent a email to their corporate group).

For a dealler to sell a USED car and offer a FULL refund, come to my home (2 1/2 hours away) and pick up the car so I would not be bothered with it any more is impressive. I guess they are trying to make good but, as it sits, they wont repair it. I BET the email to their corporate group did that to shut me up.

I did take a look over cars in a 200 mile range....nothing, there is one that is 1174 miles away but, not flying out for a maybe (looks like a shady place)....as it's a L with dynanic cruse and no air (WOW, the perfect DREAM combo)and it's 3K less than my car.. the history is questionable (no history on Lexus for the last 50K) 137k on it I just so wanted dyamic cruse that is very hard to get in New England I guess (none were sold in NE in the 2007 year due to it not working in snow/ice)

I did pay a $400 fee (OMG) but, this covers getting the car registered and everything else. I hate dealing with the DMV, so screw it. This is what I need them to finish up.

So pull the rim off, remove 2 bolts on the caliper (any idea on the size ?) and it falls off, pop off the rotor and remove 4 bolts and unplug the ABS cable. Reverse to redo... would love a video or something to see, just to rule out anything but, shoudl not be that bad...

Think I am going to order the part today.'

Edit: Ordered the front left and remote start

JLAWS

What was your price range for an LS460L? There was one right in your state for $20K at Wizautos. 1 owner, Year 2008 with 73K miles and registered in Florida and Connecticut with thorough Lexus maintenance records. It is the color combo I want Blue/Black and 19" sport wheels which really gives it a modern look. . The Air ride was serviced so I would have consider it. It has screens in the headrest as a bonus! Trying to buy a 2nd home so my car purchase is on hold I would have taken 2 days off from work to get this home!

joedaddy1

iTrader: (1)

why would you leave a bad review? they are offering a full refund for an used car without warranty.

I would take that offer and run.. They could've sold you the car as-is and told you to go pound sand..

DavidinCT

Yep, I saw that one. I really didn't want to deal with the Air system. It's a nice feature but, a matter of time before they fail. I plan in driving this car to 250K+, so the air would be something I plan to avoid. Only thing I would think about if it had dyamic cruse. For some reason I really want that feature. Even though I would not have to worry about it but, I really dont want the shock of a $3-4K bill showing up 30-40k away..

I had till Noon to deal with it so I own this car now. The car I have is in great shape (just noticed 2 of the wheels are peeling but, otherwise), it even has a hood bra, so my front end wont become a chipped mess like my 430 did... WIth the miles I am shocked on how well the car looks and how nice the body is.

I was trying to stay under $15K this round, my wife wants to buy a new home in a few months and didn't want to put a $40K car on the credit right now, just in case.

I am on the fence. Why ? They were pushing a car (front page on their used car site), that was defective. It clearly had an issue, even the sales person said the last person who took it for a ride said the same thing. Even though they had that information, they still sold the car....AT FULL MARKET VALUE and would not discount it.

Then I was told it was fixed and I got the car and there was no change (there is a long story why I didn't take it for another drive before buying it)

I sent a email to their corporate group (who owns 15 dealerships), within 25 min I got a call from the GM of the location to offer me a full refund. I would put a large sum money bet, if I told the sales person, I would not of gotten anywhere, and if I called the GM myself, it would of gone the same way. In fact, I contacted the sales person and still never got a reply.

FOR the record, the car came with a 1250 mile SAFTEY warranty, nothing more.

Do you think because they offered me a refund that the rest of it is excuseable ? Personally I dont, as it was a major hassle, even creating this thread, and the work on the video would of never been here if the dealership was selling a car that was fully referbished. And I was lied to 3-4 times CLEARLY through out the whole thing (things I can prove)

Anyway about it for a HIGH end dealer, I would not of expected this type of service.

Yea, I am keeping the car.... I hope I dont regret it, as the noise is so bad, I cant hear if anything else is going on. Part on the way, I hope in a week I will know if that was the problem.

I thank everyone here for their help but, the fact of the matter, if the dealership did their job before selling this car, this thread would not of even been here !

Doublebase

They won't fix a wheel bearing??? And you have a safety warranty? I mean I'd call that a safety issue, if it gets bad enough the wheel could fall off. Safety?

That at dealer is a DISGRACE. Total disgrace. And they're in Manchester?

Let eft me give you some advice on the wheel bearing...let an independence do it. And I only say this because it's a ten year old car and the bearing is probably rusted into the knuckle pretty good. I did mine a year ago and it was tough to get out because of the rust, other than that it was an easy job. And make sure you buy a Koyo or another high quality after market or OE bearing, otherwise you'll be doing the job twice. If it wasn't for the rust I'd say that this is an hour job, tops. An experienced independent shouldn't charge you much more than an hour for this repair...it's straight forward and easy.

​​​​​​​But if you're going to do it yourself you'll have to remove the caliper and rotor, and then unbolt the bearing from behind the knuckle...then bang out the bearing.

DavidinCT

Yep...Mercedes-Benz of Manchester, NH. I was told clear, My option return the car for a full refund (at their expense), or take the car AS-IS they will not repair it or give part refund. Personally I think it's a joke, it's one of the worse experiences I have ever had buying a car and I have dealt with some sleazy sales people over the years. At least the sleazy sales people tell you like it is, not always lie directly to your face. I expected a LOT more going to a Benz dealer...

All I need to figure out the easy way of getting the caliper off and I should be good to go. never did breaks on a LS460, I have done them on a LS430 and they appear to be a lot different.

I need a few tools like a wire brush once I get it out but, I should be ok, I will be picking them up this week.

One trick that I heard (as the LS430 ones are pretty much the same), loosen the screws on the back maybe 1/4 an inch, then bang them with a hammer, it makes it come out a lot easier.

Doublebase

You won't have a problem getting the calipers off, it's probably the easiest part of this job.

If I remember correctly the bearing's four bolts...I wasn't able to physically remove one or two bolts all the way out of the steering knuckle, but it doesn't impede the removal of the bearing itself.

I did my bearing in my garage at home when I was doing my control arms, I wasn't using air tools, but even then it wasn't a big deal. I just remember really having to hammer that bearing out, if it isn't as rusted as mine you'll have no problem.

I work in the industry and I'm going to tell everyone I know about that Mercedes dealer in Manchester.

DavidinCT

Thanks !

Is this just a 14mm/15mm or a hex screw >

When I was checking the tire, Snapped a quick pic.... I noticed the star/hex type (I have very limited tools but, will grab if i need something special) is that what I need to remove ?