Fuel pump oil leak
02-19-17, 10:27 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Fuel pump oil leak
I am looking at a LS460 that in in very nice condition, but does have an issue where the fuel pump gasket needs to be replaced. it's leaking a bit of oil.
Wondering about how much that might cost to repair *rough estimate)?
Thanks
Wondering about how much that might cost to repair *rough estimate)?
Thanks
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CamelKool (08-08-20)
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
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CamelKool (08-08-20)
02-19-17, 04:03 PM
#4
When i took mine into my indy shop for the valve cover gasket leak they found the fuel pump leaking as well. No one on this site has ever done this job. My shop charged around 300 labor for valve cover and fuel pump gaskets. Add in parts and the shop mark up bill went to 500.
Hope this helps. As you can see labor is the killer.
Hope this helps. As you can see labor is the killer.
Last edited by johnnyg66; 02-19-17 at 04:21 PM.
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CamelKool (08-08-20)
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
02-19-17, 05:13 PM
#6
Pole Position
I think anyone who is getting this repair done for under $500 is getting a bargain, there's a pretty detailed "how to"video that someone posted about six months ago, it was a pretty involved job. Not something I'd recommend for the average do it yourselfer.
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02-19-17, 05:16 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
I'll start off by saying that I have my flame suit on..............
I too had very slight oil seepage on both of my fuel pumps. I decided to do what many would NEVER do as a fix, but 5K miles later it is still bone dry and cost about $3. I started by using brake cleaner and removed all traces of oil on/around the fuel pump where it mounts on the valve cover. Wiped it dry, ensured it was dry by blowing compressed air all around the area and then began the "fix". Armed with a partially used tube of high temp black RTV automotive grade silicone, I began the high tech repair - apply a medium amount to tip of my index finger (with disposable glove on) and carefully smeared it on the joint between the pump and valve cover. I repeated this process until the entire perimeter was sealed up on both sides.
I am NOT the kind of person that will half a$$ something when it comes to a critical repair, but there is NO oil pressure at this seal, just leaks what ever happens to be splashing/spraying onto it from the inside of the valve cover. I would have NEVER tried this if there were any pressure what so ever - but there is none.
I have checked my "repair" several times over the last 6 months and 5K miles and both sides are dry as a bone - no more buring oil smell as it used to run down and drip onto the exhaust manifolds and no more oily coating on front subframe as I had previous to the fix. I had nothing to lose, because if it did leak, removing the silicone would not have been that difficult if the actual o-rings/gaskets needed replacing.
Also, its a 2008, not a 2014 or newer. Most people would probably use some very descriptive and not so nice words to describe my version of a fix, but I am happy and saved me ALOT of $$$ and/or aggravation by trying to do the fix the "right" way.
I too had very slight oil seepage on both of my fuel pumps. I decided to do what many would NEVER do as a fix, but 5K miles later it is still bone dry and cost about $3. I started by using brake cleaner and removed all traces of oil on/around the fuel pump where it mounts on the valve cover. Wiped it dry, ensured it was dry by blowing compressed air all around the area and then began the "fix". Armed with a partially used tube of high temp black RTV automotive grade silicone, I began the high tech repair - apply a medium amount to tip of my index finger (with disposable glove on) and carefully smeared it on the joint between the pump and valve cover. I repeated this process until the entire perimeter was sealed up on both sides.
I am NOT the kind of person that will half a$$ something when it comes to a critical repair, but there is NO oil pressure at this seal, just leaks what ever happens to be splashing/spraying onto it from the inside of the valve cover. I would have NEVER tried this if there were any pressure what so ever - but there is none.
I have checked my "repair" several times over the last 6 months and 5K miles and both sides are dry as a bone - no more buring oil smell as it used to run down and drip onto the exhaust manifolds and no more oily coating on front subframe as I had previous to the fix. I had nothing to lose, because if it did leak, removing the silicone would not have been that difficult if the actual o-rings/gaskets needed replacing.
Also, its a 2008, not a 2014 or newer. Most people would probably use some very descriptive and not so nice words to describe my version of a fix, but I am happy and saved me ALOT of $$$ and/or aggravation by trying to do the fix the "right" way.
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
02-19-17, 05:54 PM
#9
Pole Position
I'll start off by saying that I have my flame suit on..............
I too had very slight oil seepage on both of my fuel pumps. I decided to do what many would NEVER do as a fix, but 5K miles later it is still bone dry and cost about $3. I started by using brake cleaner and removed all traces of oil on/around the fuel pump where it mounts on the valve cover. Wiped it dry, ensured it was dry by blowing compressed air all around the area and then began the "fix". Armed with a partially used tube of high temp black RTV automotive grade silicone, I began the high tech repair - apply a medium amount to tip of my index finger (with disposable glove on) and carefully smeared it on the joint between the pump and valve cover. I repeated this process until the entire perimeter was sealed up on both sides.
I am NOT the kind of person that will half a$$ something when it comes to a critical repair, but there is NO oil pressure at this seal, just leaks what ever happens to be splashing/spraying onto it from the inside of the valve cover. I would have NEVER tried this if there were any pressure what so ever - but there is none.
I have checked my "repair" several times over the last 6 months and 5K miles and both sides are dry as a bone - no more buring oil smell as it used to run down and drip onto the exhaust manifolds and no more oily coating on front subframe as I had previous to the fix. I had nothing to lose, because if it did leak, removing the silicone would not have been that difficult if the actual o-rings/gaskets needed replacing.
Also, its a 2008, not a 2014 or newer. Most people would probably use some very descriptive and not so nice words to describe my version of a fix, but I am happy and saved me ALOT of $$$ and/or aggravation by trying to do the fix the "right" way.
I too had very slight oil seepage on both of my fuel pumps. I decided to do what many would NEVER do as a fix, but 5K miles later it is still bone dry and cost about $3. I started by using brake cleaner and removed all traces of oil on/around the fuel pump where it mounts on the valve cover. Wiped it dry, ensured it was dry by blowing compressed air all around the area and then began the "fix". Armed with a partially used tube of high temp black RTV automotive grade silicone, I began the high tech repair - apply a medium amount to tip of my index finger (with disposable glove on) and carefully smeared it on the joint between the pump and valve cover. I repeated this process until the entire perimeter was sealed up on both sides.
I am NOT the kind of person that will half a$$ something when it comes to a critical repair, but there is NO oil pressure at this seal, just leaks what ever happens to be splashing/spraying onto it from the inside of the valve cover. I would have NEVER tried this if there were any pressure what so ever - but there is none.
I have checked my "repair" several times over the last 6 months and 5K miles and both sides are dry as a bone - no more buring oil smell as it used to run down and drip onto the exhaust manifolds and no more oily coating on front subframe as I had previous to the fix. I had nothing to lose, because if it did leak, removing the silicone would not have been that difficult if the actual o-rings/gaskets needed replacing.
Also, its a 2008, not a 2014 or newer. Most people would probably use some very descriptive and not so nice words to describe my version of a fix, but I am happy and saved me ALOT of $$$ and/or aggravation by trying to do the fix the "right" way.
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
02-20-17, 05:25 PM
#11
Pole Position
Dealer charged me around $350 to rebuild both oil seals in the fuel pump. I responded with a break down in another similar thread. Try searching and I'll post it if I can find it. Best of luck
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
03-03-17, 02:50 PM
#12
Sorry to hi-jack a bit but it is possible to damage this gasket doing a spark plug change? Reason i ask is i took my car in for a oil change and to replace the spark plugs. As soon as i go to take my car home i started smelling oil burning. Took it back and they say my fuel pump gasket is bad. It did not leak when i brought it in. And wanted to charge me an extra 515 bucks for it.
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CamelKool (08-22-20)
03-04-17, 04:54 PM
#13
Pole Position
Sorry to hi-jack a bit but it is possible to damage this gasket doing a spark plug change? Reason i ask is i took my car in for a oil change and to replace the spark plugs. As soon as i go to take my car home i started smelling oil burning. Took it back and they say my fuel pump gasket is bad. It did not leak when i brought it in. And wanted to charge me an extra 515 bucks for it.
$515 doesn't sound like a bad price actually.
07-24-18, 10:29 PM
#14
I'll start off by saying that I have my flame suit on..............
I too had very slight oil seepage on both of my fuel pumps. I decided to do what many would NEVER do as a fix, but 5K miles later it is still bone dry and cost about $3. I started by using brake cleaner and removed all traces of oil on/around the fuel pump where it mounts on the valve cover. Wiped it dry, ensured it was dry by blowing compressed air all around the area and then began the "fix". Armed with a partially used tube of high temp black RTV automotive grade silicone, I began the high tech repair - apply a medium amount to tip of my index finger (with disposable glove on) and carefully smeared it on the joint between the pump and valve cover. I repeated this process until the entire perimeter was sealed up on both sides.
I am NOT the kind of person that will half a$$ something when it comes to a critical repair, but there is NO oil pressure at this seal, just leaks what ever happens to be splashing/spraying onto it from the inside of the valve cover. I would have NEVER tried this if there were any pressure what so ever - but there is none.
I have checked my "repair" several times over the last 6 months and 5K miles and both sides are dry as a bone - no more buring oil smell as it used to run down and drip onto the exhaust manifolds and no more oily coating on front subframe as I had previous to the fix. I had nothing to lose, because if it did leak, removing the silicone would not have been that difficult if the actual o-rings/gaskets needed replacing.
Also, its a 2008, not a 2014 or newer. Most people would probably use some very descriptive and not so nice words to describe my version of a fix, but I am happy and saved me ALOT of $$$ and/or aggravation by trying to do the fix the "right" way.
I too had very slight oil seepage on both of my fuel pumps. I decided to do what many would NEVER do as a fix, but 5K miles later it is still bone dry and cost about $3. I started by using brake cleaner and removed all traces of oil on/around the fuel pump where it mounts on the valve cover. Wiped it dry, ensured it was dry by blowing compressed air all around the area and then began the "fix". Armed with a partially used tube of high temp black RTV automotive grade silicone, I began the high tech repair - apply a medium amount to tip of my index finger (with disposable glove on) and carefully smeared it on the joint between the pump and valve cover. I repeated this process until the entire perimeter was sealed up on both sides.
I am NOT the kind of person that will half a$$ something when it comes to a critical repair, but there is NO oil pressure at this seal, just leaks what ever happens to be splashing/spraying onto it from the inside of the valve cover. I would have NEVER tried this if there were any pressure what so ever - but there is none.
I have checked my "repair" several times over the last 6 months and 5K miles and both sides are dry as a bone - no more buring oil smell as it used to run down and drip onto the exhaust manifolds and no more oily coating on front subframe as I had previous to the fix. I had nothing to lose, because if it did leak, removing the silicone would not have been that difficult if the actual o-rings/gaskets needed replacing.
Also, its a 2008, not a 2014 or newer. Most people would probably use some very descriptive and not so nice words to describe my version of a fix, but I am happy and saved me ALOT of $$$ and/or aggravation by trying to do the fix the "right" way.
07-25-18, 05:20 AM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Follow up to my leaking fuel pump O rings with silicone.
It's been 7 + months since I did my "repair" with silicone and they are still BONE DRY - not a single hint of oil leaking or weeping. I'm very pleased so far. And in case you wonder how much I drive the car, well it is my daily driver. I have just went over 100K miles and all is good in the neighborhood!
It's been 7 + months since I did my "repair" with silicone and they are still BONE DRY - not a single hint of oil leaking or weeping. I'm very pleased so far. And in case you wonder how much I drive the car, well it is my daily driver. I have just went over 100K miles and all is good in the neighborhood!
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CamelKool (08-22-20)