I know it's the wire the leads to the ML sub so the signal has already been through a crossover. Can't say which wire exactly as I had a shop install it for me. Wish I could be of more help.

 

I'm looking for the pre-amp signal. gosh darnit! I guess I've got some work to do....

 

tell me if this makes sense. Since the signal is tapped after the amp my OEM volume **** controls the entire system including the sub. Turn it all the way up the volume is loud and the bass is booming. Turn it halfway down and the entire soundstage is cut in half. Turn it all the way down and crickets. The bass **** only controls the amount of bass relative to the entire system. Kinda like filling the gap. I have my bass at about a 4 out of ten and keep it there for everything from classical to hip hop to metal and it just the right amount to fill in those missing lower octaves. In fact over the past week I've heard / felt tones in songs I've never heard before adding the sub and listening to the same material.

 

Nicely done! I would imagine that is value added when the time comes to sell.

 

your's sound like the bass **** works like it should. Mine on the other hand, when you turn the **** just slightly, it's at full. When it's at full twist, it is as if it was still at slightly turned, still full up. That's why I was asking where you got your signal from.

Maybe it's my amp and ****, it's pretty old. An old set up from my 00' 4Runner about 14+ years ago.

 

1- the gain (directly) on the Amplifier is set too high....go to the amp and turn it down a bit.
2- Running an amplified signal to another amp is a big no-no: Thats when you take the signal directly from your factory sub and plug it into your aftermarket amp/sub setup. That would require a line level adapter and a simple gain adjustment

 

Fixed

 

HAHAHAHAHA Thanks! I don't know what I was thinking there!

 

That's a clean set-up, looks nice. I'm assuming the trunk set-up is a bit different for those with the "coolbox" feature.

I was wondering, would you / could you show a picture of the A.P.O. installed prior to putting the bass **** in there? I have a 2010 model, so mine has the older interior than yours. That location is fantastic, close it down, it looks stock, open it up, there's the ****, and it looks clean also.

This is a mod I would certainly consider doing, it's so clean. And I think your bass gain **** is an excellent way to control it, and dial in exactly the amount of bass wanted.

Good write-up, good pictures, etc!


7milesout

 

My F-Sport only had a passthrough through the rear seat with the double doors. I removed that so I could drop the armrest for additional venting into the cabin but after just a simple test with it up and down it's been up ever since and I can;t tell the difference. Not sure if removing the double door passthrough contributed but it's definitely porting into the cabin.

I can get you pics if you tell me what an A.P.O. is lol

 

A.P.O. = Auxiliary Power Outlet, or 12V power, or "cigarette lighter." A.P.O. is the common term in the automotive (engineering) world.

 

Sorry no pic of it before but it looks like every other A.P.O. out there.

 

Yeah, OK. I'll look on Edmunds or something. But generally the lid is closed. I'm familiar with the look of the A.P.O., but I wanted to see the whole area around the A.P.O. included.

That set-up is SWEET. My interior does not have the A.P.O. up front like that. Only in the console box.


7milesout

 

I'm not sure what you're looking for. The outlet was simply popped out and a plate fabricated to fit behind it. It basically looked like it does now but instead of a **** there was a lid.

 

Nice work. For some reason I think the ML in my 2007 sounds better than the 2013. Maybe I just need some tweaking. *shrug*