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Mine does the exact same thing. I have a 2011 LS460 with about 55k miles. I'm glad I found this thread because I thought it was the beginning of a major transmission problem. I've only owned the car a few months. The video in the first post looks identical to what I see on my car on the first acceleration after a cold start.
I just fixed this issue by changing the transmission fluid. I changed it 3 times and used about 3 quarts each time doing a drain and fill. I've been driving it for a week since and haven't had the shift flare even once. It used to do it after every cold start, but it's been perfect since I changed the fluid.
I just fixed this issue by changing the transmission fluid. I changed it 3 times and used about 3 quarts each time doing a drain and fill. I've been driving it for a week since and haven't had the shift flare even once. It used to do it after every cold start, but it's been perfect since I changed the fluid.
Pheuw! Glad to hear this isn’t future complete tranny failure. Same issue with our new to us 2011 RWD with 65,000 miles. I’ll give the transmission flush and fill a try at our next engine oil change…
Pheuw! Glad to hear this isn’t future complete tranny failure. Same issue with our new to us 2011 RWD with 65,000 miles. I’ll give the transmission flush and fill a try at our next engine oil change…
Again, do NOT perform a “flush and fill.” Please do a “drain and fill.” Flushing will cause slippage and possibly restrict proper fluid circulation by clogging tubes and passages.
Aha! We own 2 LS460s (2011 & 2012) and they both do this on the first cold accel. In transmission lingo, it is known as a "2-3 flare". I think it's a characteristic of the Aisin AA80E transmission, and I bet if others tried this they would find that most of them exhibit this same behavior. I live on a 50MPH road, so the first run through the 2-3 shift happens on the way to 50MPH. In a 25-30MPH subdivision the first 2-3 shift might happen as the driver is lifting off the throttle, so it wouldn't be noticeable. Anybody else want to try to see if their car does this? It literally only happens once, on the first accel after a cold start.
Wow! Mine does that exact same thing at the exact same time. I have a 2011 AWD, L body with the Cold Weather package. Currently have 149,000 miles. Last fluid drain and fill was at 100,000.
Again, do NOT perform a “flush and fill.” Please do a “drain and fill.” Flushing will cause slippage and possibly restrict proper fluid circulation by clogging tubes and passages.
Oh, the old 2-3 flare when car just starts moving first thing in the morning. I cured it. It's the battery. Yup. Every time I had 2-3 flare I had about 10.8v IGN on (fyi in summer engine will happily crank with 10.3v ign on). Installed fresh furukawa batt (FB8000 I think) and never had 2-3 flare since. I guess with somewhat weak battery and not enough time to get a charge solenoid action gets weak. I experimented a lot with this. To test my theory I started hooking a charger every night and lo and behold he flare was gone. Same goes for both of mine 10 and 11.
Oh, the old 2-3 flare when car just starts moving first thing in the morning. I cured it. It's the battery. Yup. Every time I had 2-3 flare I had about 10.8v IGN on (fyi in summer engine will happily crank with 10.3v ign on). Installed fresh furukawa batt (FB8000 I think) and never had 2-3 flare since. I guess with somewhat weak battery and not enough time to get a charge solenoid action gets weak. I experimented a lot with this. To test my theory I started hooking a charger every night and lo and behold he flare was gone. Same goes for both of mine 10 and 11.
Mine used to have this shift flare from 2nd to 3rd, and 4th to 5th when I bought the car at 87k miles. All shift flares went away after I drained and refilled (3 times) the transmission fluid, and also dropping the transmission pan and replacing the transmission filter. Car is now 130k miles and still no shift flare. A real full fluid replacement (make sure it's done by connecting to a machine and running more than 10 quarts of new fluid through, Not a drain and fill which only takes 3 quarts) from the dealer would take care of this problem, even better if done earlier, before all the metal shavings from break-in wear down the all the friction rings (clutch packs), and band (the one in control of 2nd gear) in the transmission.
If vehicle mileage is relatively high, Don't get a fluid flush, new fluid may cause shift slip because the worn away friction rings are now operating in new clean fluid and have less friction than operating in the old dirty thicker fluid with break-in metal shavings floating around. That's why most people don't recommend flushing transmission fluids.
Can anyone advise how much fluid is needed when you drop and fill and also replace the transmission filter on a 2010 Lexus LS 460? Thanks in advance for your input.
Can anyone advise how much fluid is needed when you drop and fill and also replace the transmission filter on a 2010 Lexus LS 460? Thanks in advance for your input.
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I collected approxmately 4.3 qts of old transmission fluid when I dropped the pan and removed the transmission strainer/filter of my 2008 LS460 RWD when the engine and transmission were cold in the morning and when the outside temperature was 75F. I refilled about 4.9 qts of new Toyota WS fluid to check the transmission fluid level at transmission temperature of 35-42C (95-108F) while engine was idling.
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I collected approxmately 4.3 qts of old transmission fluid when I dropped the pan and removed the transmission strainer/filter of my 2008 LS460 RWD when the engine and transmission were cold in the morning and when the outside temperature was 75F. I refilled about 4.9 qts of new Toyota WS fluid to check the transmission fluid level at transmission temperature of 35-42C (95-108F) while engine was idling.
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Thank you for the information, it is very much appreciated.
Can anyone advise how much fluid is needed when you drop and fill and also replace the transmission filter on a 2010 Lexus LS 460? Thanks in advance for your input.
If this is the first time this has been done you have no way of knowing how much is in it, if you're doing it to try to fix or improve something you should have a quart or 2 extra just in case.
Were you hoping to just drain n fill without checking the fluid level or are you having it done by a shop? The first time I did mine with a filter change it took a little more than5 litres/5.2 us quarts.
If this is the first time this has been done you have no way of knowing how much is in it, if you're doing it to try to fix or improve something you should have a quart or 2 extra just in case.
Were you hoping to just drain n fill without checking the fluid level or are you having it done by a shop? The first time I did mine with a filter change it took a little more than5 litres/5.2 us quarts.
Wow, thank you for the information. I already did a drain and flush a month ago and it didn't change much in fact it slips a little more from 2-3 and is slow to go into reverse. On a side note, I wasn't sure what the starting level was before the drain so I added more WS fluid and drained the overflow. I hate to admit it but when I drained through the overflow tube, I forgot the step that the engine must be idling during the overflow drain, and I think I drained too much out. But now I intend to drop the pan and change the filter and replenish the fluid and begin the process again, to drain the excess fluid with engine idling @ 95-108 degrees on a level surface.
If you see any errors in my methodology, please feel free to comment. Thanks again.
06-05-19, 12:40 PM
