icon901

Bumping this thread as it seems to be the best discussion on the dreaded control arm topic. 2008 460 with 112k miles. Stock arms.

Just got the call from my tire shop saying they discovered the lower rearward arm on the passenger side needs replacing. Predictably the quote was $650+ for the one arm... told them don't sweat it and ordered a Moog replacement off RockAuto.

MY QUESTION:
Do these usually go out in groups? I asked if the other arms look good and the guy on the phone was pretty worthless but sounded like he thought they were. I can get all four upper arms and the opposing lower rear arm for another $300 (Mevotech parts upper and Moog lower rear)... The lower front arms are pricey at $100ish each. Are they likely to need replacing too if the lower rear is out?

Part of me wants to just replace everything to tighten everything up and start fresh while my buddy has it on the lift since it's 112k miles and I'm likely on borrowed time anyway. The frugal me wants to have him inspect everything and just swap what needs swapping.

Thoughts?

Tlutrick

If it was me, I would change them all at your mileage level. If you've been reading, it's not a question of IF they will fail, but WHEN. While you're in there, it's a good easy way to make a big difference in your car's performance.

Just a note, I also just ordered the Mevotech stabilizer arms, due to some other discussions I'm having on this forum. The Mevotech has grease fittings and will give a better performance. Easy change while in there, IMHO. Was going to install them this last weekend, but the pollen fiasco here in Louisiana decided to play hell on my sinus's and I ended up watching YouTube videos on pressing out bushings. Which BTW, I ordered for the Rear. Decided to try that approach versus entire arms. Like you, they may not need it, but I've got a slight vibration and I've seen too many horror stories about bushings that "looked" ok, but internally were shot. Worth my peace of mind, plus it looks to be FUN!!! (That's me keeping a positive mental outlook)...

Good luck

jdanielca

what exactly do you mean by stabiliser arms thanks

Tlutrick

See the image below... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...sn=337&jsn=337

jdanielca

ah stabiliser links right right ok, what kind of grease does one put into that ?

Tlutrick

Any high heat silicone based wheel bearing grease is fine. Silicone based will be important due to the rubber boots.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

Very good thread

can someone please explain in more detail how to "index the control arms" and what is the purpose of this? Im assuming to make sure they go back in the same way they came out?

Ive done my front lower rearwards twice at a cost way over what they should of been, now i have to do my front lower forwards and im thinking of trying it myself, and possibly doing the two top arms as well

thanks

AZGS4

***** see post #13 of this thread. The idea is that you want to tighten and torque the arms while in ride height position so the bushings are not under stress while in rest at that position. If you mark the old arms in reference to the bracket before you lift the car (at ride height) and then transfer the markings to the new arms and line up with reference line on brackets while torquing you can accomplish this task. This technique is necessary because it is very difficult/impossible to torque the bolts on the arms with car on the ground. I hope that helps.

1WILLY1

iTrader: (9)

thanks, yes that explains it perfectly

I guess by turning the wheel i can have access to thew arms before jacking them up, appreciate the help

mtaalib3

Another way to do it, which I confirmed with a Lexus mechanic is acceptable, is to jack up the rear lower control arm closest the rotor for the side that you're working on. Place the jacking pad on the flat part of the spindle knuckle near the rotor and jack up the lower control arm until your car lifts up off the jack stand. You can tighten the control arms in this position because the vehicle's stock ride height will be equivalent to the jacked height. That is how I did it when I changed my control arms on both sides. Hope this helps too....

Anfanger

I measured (before raising the car front) the axle center to the ground and the axle center to the fender edge above the wheel before replacing the arms. Once, I installed new arms, I used a jack to support the rotor and set proper height with the opposite side wheel being on the ground. I would recommend drive the car about 20-30 feet before setting torques to allow the suspension to settle. After that I tighten the arms to required torques.

lwphat66

Probably not a good idea to jack it up from the flat part of the knuckle as that is where the forward control arm's ball joint protrudes.

AZGS4

Or you can do what I did and install the SuperPro bushings in the upper arms as the design of the bushing does not require tightening at ride height and then have the lower arms torqued at the shop when you bring it in for an alignment and they have it up on the rack.

sha4000

iTrader: (1)

You have inspired me plus my rearward drivers side Febest upper arm bushing has a big tear and just started creaking like crazy. That bushing lasted 3 years and almost 60k miles so I'm not complaining. The other 3 upper bushings don't look that bad. It seems the drivers side takes more punishment than the passenger side. My lower rearward arm bushing is also torn. I purchased all the lower arms from 1Aauto on Ebay and installed them in October of 2019 so I'm not happy at all with that particular arm failing after 18 months and 30k miles. The do have a lifetime warranty but you have to send the arm back and wait for the replacement, Since this car is my daily I just purchased some bushings since I do have a press now. If these bushings fail again I will purchase the beefier updated arms in the future.

Has anyone changed their steering rack bushings??? While I'm going back in there I want to cover all the bases as usual. I am kind of tired since I've done the starter, engine mounts, wheel bearing and ball joint this winter. Not to mention my garage is not heated. The starter and wheel bearing were failures but the other stuff was preventive maintenance.

AZGS4

Unless my memory is failing, I dont recall the steering rack having any bushings...at least on the 07 RWD.