As of right now, all the LS 460 and LS 600h need to use a fully synthetic motor oil 0w20!!!!! it is believed that the 5w20 is causing engine problems! until Toyota comes out with there own full synthetic 0w20 engine oil, use Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0w20.

I am a Lexus tech. and i got this info from a DS.

 

wow this is a bummer...... how can they even mess up the oil type usable for the car @_@

i hope the other thread didn't confuse people attempting with 5w-30

 

And what, or who, is a DS?

 

Interesting. At my last oil change, the service department asked if I wanted synthetic or conventional. I chose synthetic, but now that has me thinking. Did the DS (District Service?) guy elaborate on what was the problem? I'm considering going fossil anyway; nothing like a dinosaur in my engine...

 

nothing like a dinosaur in my engine...

.... and a tiger in your tank!



(for those of you old enough to know what I'm referring to)

 

diagnostic specialist...

your 5K service will go up due to having to use synthetic oil but just use it.

 

Boxcarfan, are you saying that 5/20 is causing trouble if it isn't synthetic or that even 5/20 Syn is causing trouble? Thanks!

 

I don't know. We were told to strictly use MobileOne fully synthetic 0W-20 until Toyota comes out with there own Fuly synthetic 0W-20. We now stock a crap load of Mobile syn 0w-20.

 

This thread is very timely for me, thanks! I just had my oil changed at 15,000 miles. I had the 5K and 10K done at the dealer, but I stayed local and went to "Mr. Tire" for this change. Yeah, yeah, I know the common wisdom not to trust the chain store oil and lube places blah blah blah. My experience has been, however, that they are "good enough" and rarely mess up and when they do it's often less of an issue that when the dealers mess up.

All of that being said, they called me to tell me that my car required 0w-20 synthetic. I let them do it, but was suspicious that they were just looking for a way to pump the profit. They charged me $13 per quart for 7 quarts of 0w-20 synthetic. I paid and let it go but promised myself I'd research this further so I can make a better decision going forward.

So it seems that they were right! Although $13/ut seems outrageous. Anyway, the oil cap also says 0w-20 and 5w-20. What does this mean? I live in Pittsburgh with cold winters if that's any help. Quite frankly I don't buy the "synthetic is so much better" line IF YOU CHANGE OIL REGULARLY. In other words, I can't see spending the extra bucks if I do the regular 5000 changes which I do. Yeah yeah....cheaping out on a $70,000 car blah blah blah. Hey, being wise is how I GOT the $70,000 car. I can't see using oil that is meant for 10,000 to 20,000 miles if I only use it for 5000.

Anyway, some full explanation of what to do from someone who knows is appreciated.

 

the wrong oil will wear valve guides which causes a knocking which is picked up by the knock sensors which retards the timing which gives you the feeling of no power or abnormal lack of power.

 

What are you trying to say? Does this mean that normal 5w-20 dino juice is NOT OK?

 

ha....that's what the extra $50 bucks was for at the 10K mile service.....was wondering why they charged me extra for what i thought should be included in the 10K service price($100)

 

yea thats what im saying

dayrll40 its 9 quarts not 7qts

 

Maybe the place said they expected 7 qts but it took 9 qts.


Thanks for clarifying what you said. But if the cap says 5W-20 as one of the two options, then why is that not OK?

 

Sir, sir, sir... I know, I know!