LS2k

Under warranty, Lexus replaced all eight front control arms at ~50K. After only 110K miles and when putting on a new set of tires, I noticed the bushings are failing once more. I'm curious about whether the wear and tear seen in the attached photos is "acceptable" given that our car is only used sporadically for about 5,000 miles a year. and knowing that on average, the "faulty" 2007 OEM version ought to last over 100,000 miles? While the "old" OEM kit from '07 is ~$400 + Labor, i also found the parts # for for all the new "improved" OEM 2012+ control arms:
:
Lower main 48640-50131 (2012-2017) $253.67
Lower main 48620-50131 (2012-2017) $253.67

Lower front 48620-59055 (2012-2017) $266.99
Lower front 48640-59045 (2012-2017) $266.99

Upper front RH 48610-59125 (2012-2017) $426.76
Upper rear RH 48610-59135 (2012-2017) $426.76
Upper front LH 48630-59125 (2012-2017) $426.76
Upper rear LH 48630-59135 (2012-2017) $426.76

The upgraded version is $2500+ compare to the "old" OEM kit from '07 " version is ~$400 + Labor - Knowing the mileage to be, really hate to pass on the upgraded 2012 version but can't justify the cost considering what else could go wrong within the next ~50K if I am to replace (plus labor) with $400 OEM version.

Are the current front and back control arms (upper/lower) as seen on the pics need urgently to be replaced? Noticed the ball joint as well needs attention : Is this the latest version of this ball joint part? https://www.ebay.com/itm/164953820141


Also, I figured I'll need new rear swaybars bushings, all front inner & outer tie rod ends, stabilizer bar bushings and end links. Again, would appreciate feedback on this as well.



Driver Side Lower

Driver Side Upper

Pass Side

Front Passenger Side

Front Passenger Side

Front Passenger Upper

Back Driver Side

Back Passenger Side

Gerf

You have hardwood floors in your garage ?? Are you having any specific symptoms that makes you think they all are bad?

Striker223

Pictures aren't really showing bushings.....what symptoms are you having to at make you suspect arms need to be done?

Also FYI the newer arms are exactly the same as the older ones, you will not gain anything from buying the newer versions in terms of service life.

LS2k

Not hardwood but linoleum floor :-) I haven't heard any knocking noises or other problems on the front side up till now, but when I apply the brake, I noticed a clicking sound from the "back" (I believe it's the swaybar bushings). I found this problem on the front side when I took it in for alignment after replacing the tires (due to uneven wear).

LS2k

Agree, will take better pics next when i get it lift up. From my observation, the issue (like with the radiator, water pump, ABS, and the list goes on - is up to debate -but yet, it is well documented issues with first gen LS460. I learned that the 2012 control arms OEM version are designed and compatible with "07 (especially lower ones) to address the deficiency of the "07 OEM control arms issue. I am no expert but among other research on this forums and more, this video has some recent insights on this topic

Gerf

I could only see ball joints leaking a bit of grease in the pics, if you have someone you trust just get them to check out the clicking...could be a few things.

LS2k

Got a scheduled check up apt from local store mid nest week, will take better pics and share the report upon their finding. FYI - previous local mechanic noted: Found both front tie rod ends, front lower frontward control arms, front lower rearward control arms are damaged.
Plus
Recommend remove and replace transmission pan gasket - another one -and quoted as well-"Tech" recommend front suspension replacement.

Striker223

About two years ago I bought one of every single brand front lower main control arm to compare and figure out if anything was actually changed and to check durometer of the rubber. Second goal was to figure out who actually makes the arms for Lexus....

I came to the conclusion they didn't change a damn thing and there is near zero difference in brands, Delphi had the same casting marks and forge marks as the Lexus dealer parts so I bought a full set from them and used them on my car.

The revised arms have inserts to try and limit extreme deflection angle but the rubber is identical as are the ball joints. The irony is the ball joint that usually fails is the one that is pressed into the knuckle itself and is a pain to replace

LS2k

I understand what you mean by just changing the "packaging", as they did by painting the parts black :-). Thanks for the information.

Marc780

The front end bits on an LS460 are the most complicated I have ever seen on a car - for big heavy cars that handle how our LS460's do, the handling does not come for free of course! Even so, fast-wearing front end parts IS obviously something to be concerned about and one that probably could be solved with the obvious solution, these parts need two things at least, 1) front end parts of different materials than being used now, and 2) some way to lubricate the front end!

I'm old enough to have owned cars that were fitted with grease fittings (on all the front end parts and sometimes even the U-joints on the drive shaft too). You greased them once or twice a year with a "grease gun" and it took you maybe 5 minutes to do one fitting (you just pumped the handle until you saw its rubber seal begin to swell from the grease).

I'm thinking for the LS460, zerk fittings are EXACTLY what those parts need and ought to have installed at the factory and not those stupid "lubed for life" parts that aren't! But Lexus will never even admit there's a problem and fix it by the simple expedient of adding grease fittings.



...and it would seem plenty of people agree with me about this. In thinking about your question, I came across a site telling what to do if you want to lube something that has no grease fitting, but that you still want to lubricate anyway.

https://www.suspension.com/blog/how-...-tie-rod-ends/

Striker223

That won't make any difference, the ball joints almost never wear out before the rubber is shredded.

The issue the LS has is the arms and bushings are too small and the thrust arm is reversed relative to how Audi/Mercedes does it and that leads to more stain under braking and less life due to size. The other cars with this type of suspension usually can last to 120k miles before any noticeable issues because the design is better since they were doing it for 15 years before Lexus did. Earlier cars were more the like LS in terms of constantly needing replacement

LS2k

Agree with both Marc780 & Striker223, this is the result of a flaw in the design. At this stage, i am wondering what the list of parts should include:

- '07 OEM controls arms set of 8
- Both sides Front inner & outer tie rod ends
-- Both sides Front ball joints
-- Both sides Front stabilizer bar bushings and end links.
_ Both sides Rear swaybars bushings
-- Engine Mounts ?
Plus
Recommend remove and replace transmission pan gasket
Will add new pics on Wednesday but am I missing anything that will need replacement from that list?

dan25man

I wouldn't change anything. If the car rides fine and you don't hear any clunks or have vibration issues then your bushings are fine. From the pics they all look A-OK to me. Sure they're dirty, but it's the wheel assembly they always look dirty. I'd just be glad that Lexus replaced the suspension already.

Gerf

If this is a flaw then every car manufacturer has and continues to produce cars with this flaw, even the Germans. I really doubt that longevity is very high on the list of requirements for suspension components for producers otherwise it would still be a-arms and bolt on ball joints for everything.

Striker223

That's exactly what I did plus radiator, it just exploded on me when I set the car back down for some reason.