Service tech told where I just got new tire told me my brakes (front) are close to eating through sensor wire. To his credit, he was not pushing me to change pads now. In fact, unlike dealer, he said to wait until the sensor gets worn through, but they recommend changing the sensor loop whenever I do brakes anyway. (Not sure I see need for that if I change pads BEFORE sensor gets cut). He also suggested doing rotors, just as as fairly routine to avoid problems, but they are not cheap for non-OEM.

The thing is that this place is completely fine if I supply my own parts... I have always used done brakes at dealer but would consider going here if I could supply parts. I have been avoiding dealer for routine things, but not for brakes until now...

So a few scenarios:
(1) Do I wait for sensor to wear through, for once? Might save me a boatload. (I have heard that there is still life on pads even after sensor gets worn through, but I would not want to ride around with a brake warning light on..)

(2) Whenever I do actually do the job, do I install new rotors or keep existing? Rear rotors I did last time since car is 18 years old and had never done them, so I sucked it down as a good idea at the time. I believe most places including dealer don't "turn" rotors anymore but really don't know. I have never paid to have front rotors replaced, at least since 2009 when I have owned the car. So maybe keeping rotors is fine? Do they rust out of wear from use? I doubt he would measure thickness. I am thinking I don't routinely need to change them, but they are quite old...

(3) I have read that if flange bolts (2 caliper bolts) come out, they should not be reused. I needed, I would supply OEM as I do not want to play around. But do they even come out for pads-only replacement? Dealer always charged me for them on pad replacement, but videos I have watched seem to show that pads come out without touching the caliper bolts if you are not changing or otherwise accessing the rotors.
(4) I have seen aftermarket wear sensors for $10 instead of $100... good enough? seems like a simple part.

In short: do I wait for sensor, then do I change rotors too, and if I don't change rotors, do I need new flange bolts or do they not come out so I don't touch them? Also, if supply all parts, it it just pads, rotors, bolts (all OEM) and sensor (aftermarket) or is there something else needed to ensure a successful job?

FYI I never waited for sensor at dealer as the part there is $100. Seemed like false economy. I wonder by willing to wait to see how long I really get on the fronts before the sensor goes. Mu 2016 Cadillac has 80k miles and I have yet to need to change the pads. Makes me wonder if the fear of sensor has led me to change pads far too often on my LS (roughly every 30k dealer tells me... heh, good deal for them...) and maybe I will get another 20k on them by waiting...

 

1 - The industry standard is to replace the pads when they, evenly, wear down to 3mm, with 2mm being the minimum safe zone.

2 - Brake rotors will rust but they generally do not become compromised due to rust. Your mechanic can answer your question if his shop resurfaces rotors. They all measure thickness as they could be held liable for an accident if they put back a rotor that has worn beyond the minimum thickness. If you currently have no vibrations when you brake, I would reuse the rotors if they still have enough material.

3 - You are correct that the caliper bolts are generally only removed if replacing the rotors. However, many times the sliding pins seize and the caliper may have to be removed to fix them. I’ve never replaced caliper bolts, but if its recommended for the LS, do what the book says.

4 - Your call.

 

You can reuse the sensors if they haven't worn through yet. Just don't lose the really small clip that holds it to the pad. If you do need new ones the OEM ones are really expensive but aftermarket work just fine. The service manual says to replace the caliper bolts if they are removed. The new bolts have loctite from the factory but I've reused them before too. The main concern is they thread into the aluminum knuckle so you may have issues the second time you go to remove them depending on where you live. If you are just doing pads the calipers stay on. And stated incorrectly above, these are a fixed caliper design and do not have sliders.

 

As stated, if there’s no vibration then the rotors should be fine. There are still shops that resurface them. The shop near me charges $25 each. I haven’t don’t brakes on the LS since I’ve gotten it so I have no input on the sensors but it looks like others have already spoken on that as well.

 

Generally, I use OEM parts on my LS. The one exception is the brake sensor wires. The aftermarket available from Rock Auto and other parts stores (Raybestos, Beck Arnley, etc) work just fine and are around $10 each.

On my last brake job, I used all OEM parts (rotors, pads and caliper bolts) from Belle Lexus and aftermarket brake sensor wires. Everything works great.

Also, don't even think about reusing the caliper bolts.

 

I've never really used OEM parts for brakes as I want better than OEM if I'm replacing. Get a good set of discs and pads from a reputable brand. Brembos, ebc, hawk, should be lots to choose from, I will also recommend some low dust pads. I will upgrade to stainless steel brake lines too if available.

 

Thanks for all the advice. I think I will wait for sensor this time and then do both pads and rotors simply since I have never done rotors on the fronts yet, with new bolts and non-OEM sensor.

AVSRacing, is it a big deal/expense and worthwhile having brake lines replaced proactively (by mechanic) and can I request stainless generally? My 15 year old Buick had lines go suddenly, 1 day after I had it at mechanic and I told him not to replace my "whining power steering" a few years ago, which was fine. I am half convinced my sudden loss of brakes was an act of retribution since I told him no on the other $2k repair that he wanted to do (even though I gladly paid for his inspection time). The car lasted years more and never had steering pump/rack issues at all. I had bad experiences with that mechanic who had earlier done my Lexus timing belt supposedly (with water pump) only to have the water pump die 30k miles later... done with him... Anyway, having the lines get a leak made my brakes nearly unusable and I imped in about 10mph to a nearby body shop that also could do mechanical stuff and repaired them inexpensively.

I don't really know if that incident was sabotage or not, but I was curious from an age/safety angle about brake line inspection or replacement, something I have not really thought of since then. I do keep my LS430 outside except in snow, so I'm sure it has had time and exposure...