NO NO and NO!
Once the shift solenoid is replaced focus more on getting the fluid level correct than the amount of fluid replaced.

 

If the car never had ATF replaced I figured just swap it all out. I started watching some videos and it doesn't seem that complicated. Similar to oil change but final check is to monitor temp and drain excess. I could do this once a week till all the ATF is replaced. I have access to a bay, I just need to find out if they have a pump for the ATF.

 

Do what works best for you just don't use anything the expells the fluid with pressure.
Also, use only Toyota WS fluid. Don't fall prey to the marketing hype behind "Multi Vehicle" ATFs.

 

Just saw a video by Chris fix, he advises not to flush if you don't know the quality of the oil. The bad oil might be the one that's keeping everything together inside.

If anyone has instructions on how to change a solenoid id appreciate it

 

Do not power flush it. You may damage it if you do, drain and fill and swap the pan filter a few times.

 

Yup tracking. Just ordered the solenoid.
Do you know what the part number for the filter is. Im getting mixed results on Google
​​​​​​​

 

Here is a nice WIX for a good price

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ic,filter,8600

Remember to NOT use the gasket that comes with it, it's only for "damaged" pan lips/trans rails not what you are supposed to seal it with. You need to use Permatex Ultra ATF RTV or the Lexus OE FIPG sealant, I prefer the Permatex but some like the OE stuff more. Both will work but I have found the OE to harden more quickly and be a little more finicky overall.

 

What ways/procedures may one wish to use to detect such issue(s) when inspecting and/or test driving a vehicle...?

 

You can buy a new hand pump quite cheaply for maybe $10 or so and avoid cross contaminating fluids.
Toyota service instructs checking WS ATF at 104'-115' transmission fluid temperatures to check fluid level. [The car will have to be cool to begin with as driving it will cause fluid temp to be much hotter and fluid too expanded to check under Toyota service instructions (Toyota has developed a special tool for checking when temps are higher)]
Professor John D. Kelly https://www.weber.edu/automotive/J_Kelly.html knows transmissions ... email: jkelly1@weber.edu (Toyota Certified Master Level Technician and Toyota Certified TTEN Instructor in Chassis, Drivetrain, Electrical, Engine, and Hybrid)
Toyota Transaxle Fluid Level Check - No Dipstick 60 Years of Toyota Automatic Transmission Fluid - ATF History (WS fluid is discussed starting at 25 min and 50 seconds) A gal and a couple of guys showing how they did the service:
How to Service a Sealed Toyota Transmission Toyota / Lexus Sealed WS Transmission Fluid Change

 

Is there a standard for correct rpm at certain speeds ?

 

I may start some **** with @Striker223 , but im just trying to wrap my head around it.

So, If you think about that saying it doesnt make much sense lol. "the old fluid is keeping everything together". No, the problem is that the way you introduce new fluid could move around junk and clog filters/solenoids/valve body paths, like a "power flush". So I would drop the pan and clean it out, then do a new filter. Its also good to look in there for yourself to see how bad it really is. Transmissions are pretty damn clean apart from clutch material that accumulates in the pan. The other thing that doesnt make sense is most transmission flush machines dont power flush, they link in to the transmission lines and the transmission pump is what does the work. At idle the transmission doesnt see high pressures, atleast not as high as driving. No outlets or powered pumps were involved in the machines Ive seen used and have used. You basically create a contained leak and the transmission pump throws the old out while sucking the new in. But like I said, this can still move stuff around and the new fluid is a detergent and will clean, the stuff it cleans may break loose and cause a blockage in the valvebody or a solenoid. Maybe a power flush machine exists that plugs in to an outlet and has a pump?

But I guess its easier to say" dont flush a transmission with over 150k miles" or whatever :-).

Solenoids are fairly easy to change, the problem is that some require dropping the valve body, that gets into ball bearings (maybe 8 on average) that need to be made sure they find their correct home and dont get lost. There is generally a clip that holds the solenoid in place, and a electrical connection. I did a new valve body on my 2000 trans am and its really not hard, but its easy to screw up. And to get to the valve body generally the filter has to come out. The lexus could be completely different than a 4l60e though! Some solenoids can come out without removal of the valve body. Also, the valve body will have a boat load of bolts, plus the bearings, plus a plate and gaskets (if its like a 4l60e). Id have to research it, but in my mind its totally doable in your driveway. It'll suck because of gravity, but Id probably attempt it myself.

The Lexus could be totally different, Striker has been in there I know, so maybe its jsut a retainer clip, unhook the electrical connection and slide it out.

 

2005 LS430 theoretical mph speeds at various rpm (speed is approximate ... factory claims top speed is governed at 149 mph):

approximate mph speed at 1000 rpm in 1st 6, 2nd 11, 3rd 16, 4th 21, 5th 29, 6th 36
approximate mph speed at 1500 rpm in 1st 9, 2nd 16, 3rd 23, 4th 31, 5th 43, 6th 54
approximate mph speed at 2000 rpm in 1st 12, 2nd 21, 3rd 31, 4th 41, 5th 59, 6th 70
approximate mph speed at 2500 rpm in 1st 15, 2nd 27, 3rd 38, 4th 53, 5th 72, 6th 90
approximate mph speed at 3000 rpm in 1st 19, 2nd 32, 3rd 47, 4th 63, 5th 87, 6th 109
approximate mph speed at 3500 rpm in 1st 22, 2nd 37, 3rd 54, 4th 74, 5th 102, 6th 126
approximate mph speed at 4000 rpm in 1st 26, 2nd 43, 3rd 62, 4th 84, 5th 116, 6th 144
approximate mph speed at 4500 rpm in 1st 28, 2nd 48, 3rd 70, 4th 94, 5th 130, 6th 163
approximate mph speed at 5000 rpm in 1st 32, 2nd 54, 3rd 78, 4th 105, 5th 145, 6th 183
approximate mph speed at 5500 rpm in 1st 35, 2nd 59, 3rd 85, 4th 116, 5th 160, 6th 203
approximate mph speed at 6000 rpm in 1st 39, 2nd 65, 3rd 94, 4th 126, 5th 174, 6th 217

 

Rev it out at least once when warmed fully up, if there is an engine or trans issue it should show up if you do two runs. Don't bounce it off redline or anything but have it accelerate as if you are needing to use a short on-ramp into a 75 zone.

 

Yes, in and out of lockup as well as below or over converter flash RPM.

 

I didn't take a good look at the 04-06 valve body/solenoid location or ease of just sliding them in or out since I was just inside mine to change the fluid and filter nothing more. I have pictures I'll link shortly once I find them if how they are located on an 02 and I think* that most of them can be removed without needing to remove the VB. EDIT: turns out I don't have pictures lol, guess I didn't bother since it was also just normal service. I usually only take pictures when something is wrong so I don't have very many of my LS.

The risk with machines exchanging the fluid is that the new fluid will loosen up dirt and may plug the already very old/full filter and cause some issue from lack of proper flow. That's why myself and others say to drop the pan, change the filter, and then phase in new fluid from there to avoid releasing so much dirt from the new fluids detergents doing their job that it overwhelms the filter and causes harm.

VB replacements are a massive pain due to all the little check ***** and springs and having to fight gravity but you know all about that I'm sure lol!