Are you looking for that fresh as ***** stance nation hellaflush hot boi fitment? Well keep looking cause this ain't quite it. There are some important (imo) bits of reference in here if you're looking for that though.

'01 UL, factory air sus, lowered via adjustment of factory sensor rods/brackets
Carlsson 1/6 evo II, 19x8.5 +40, 245/40/19 all four corners. No previous fender work, no alignment work.

Wheel spacers should be 60.1 bore size.
Lug nuts are 12x1.5, 6-6.5 turns min engagement
Studs from ARP are listed for the IS300 - 100-7715 - The knurled portion have identical specs to stock.
Hub centric rings are from ebay and seem to be good quality. Runout of 0.08mm or less measured with calipers.

Started working on fitment today with the wheels I had on hand, and after measuring, eyeing gaps, and measuring a little more, I ordered some H&R Trak+ spacers and some ARP wheel studs. Started by fitting the new wheel studs as the old ones only held the wheel on with maybe 6 turns or so and I wasn't quite happy with that so I found these new ones. After knocking the first one out and trying to fit the ARP stud, the new, longer stud wouldn't clear the hub/dust shield. You can go the proper route and remove the hub, clearance the holes, and press the new studs in with a bearing or drill press, or you can do it the quick and easy way which I'll be showing here.

The ARP stud is as long as I would use for this method. Any studs that are longer than this probably won't work. Studs shorter than this should fit without needing to beat the dust cover. Being able to fit it this way depends on the overall length (OAL) of the stud, not the under head length (UHL) as these need to be wedged in at an angle. The overall length is taken into account when you're putting this thing in at an angle between the dust shield and the hub.





Step one is to knock out the existing stud. Remove wheel, caliper, and rotor in that order before accessing studs. If you plan on tossing them in the garbage once they're off, go ahead and just wack on the studs with a hammer. Otherwise, if you're planning on reusing them at any point, grab a cheap sacrificial 12x1.5 nut from autozone and thread it on before you knock the thing out.

Step two is to hammer a dent into the dust cover/parking brake plate so that your new stud clears it. If your stud is shorter than the ARP, it should fit without needing this. If longer, you most likely need to remove your hub.
Take your favorite demolition-style screwdriver with a metal end cap and wack the **** out of that thing with a hammer just as Jeremy Clarkson would. 3lb hammer and a wiha heavy duty flat head does the job quite nicely.



Create a dent where the dust cover is deepest. On the passenger's side, a good spot is around 10 o'clock, behind the e-brake adjuster. Mirrored on the other side of the car. Now, keep in mind that this e-brake plate/dust cover thing sits right in front of the aluminum carrier that all the control arms and brake caliper attach to. At 10 o-clock, you're hammering the dust cover back right in front of the upper brake caliper mount hole. If you're really getting at it and the metal of the dust cover isn't giving, you're probably just transmitting the force right into the knuckle. Don't do that.





If the stud is still not going in with the dent created in the back cover, hit it some more. Do not force the stud in at an angle as the material of the hub is quite a bit stronger than the stud and will mar the threads.

Now that you have clearance for the new stud, you can press it in.

Step three; pressing the stud in. There are countless videos on youtube for this. Basically, you 're tightening the stud and pulling it into the hole in the hub. I bought this little, overpriced tool from o'reily's auto that replaces the washers used in the cheap method with bearings. Works a little better and removes the need for an impact wrench to get it started as there's not much turning friction from the bearing replacing the washers. Makes life a lot easier.

Nice tools also make the job more enjoyable.



Brake bolts go back on. Lexus says to replace as they are stretch bolts. From the looks of the bolts, I'll reuse them once or twice. My new ones came with a little bit of loctite red, so reapply sparingly. One drop is enough. It should wick around two or three threads. Any more and you'll probably make your life difficult when it comes time to remove. 58 ft-lb for the rear calipers. Snug both, then torque the bottom bolt first. 81 ft-lb for front calipers.

Front wheels are step one and three. There's no e-brake shield so studs pop right in without clearance issues.


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That covers the stud installation part. Now for the wheel spacers and more reference points for making things look nice.

The ARP Extended studs without any wheel spacers do poke out quite a bit. Picture below for reference. Wheels are the carlssons noted above, nuts are the weds sport steel tuning nuts. The amount of poke you see depends on the lug stud length, lug nut depth, and the wheel seat thickness. With this setup, the lug studs don't pass the wheel face.



This is with 15mm spacers installed. Studs flush with where the threads on the lug nuts end.




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15mm wheel spacers do not fit with no fender modification and no added camber. At a lowered ride height with the alignment performed for the stock height, you'll have signifigantly more camber and toe. Even with added camber, the wheel does not clear the fender with the 15mm spacer

(driving height)


(another angle)


(dropped) - Note that it's sitting on the fender. Not quite drivable. .


(dropped, without 15mm spacer)


Because of how soft the stock air sus is, the wheel will travel upwards beyond where the last dropped pic shows, even at driving height (first two pics) If you run it like this without any clearance, you're in for some mad bacon fender.

(15mm spacer; dropped)


(no spacers, dropped)


So I neglected to drop it to the height of that last pic when I was eyeing what size spacer I could fit without fender modifications. the gap measures about 8mm in that last pic without any wheel spacers. Running the 15mm, I would probably have to do a pretty mild (prob not aggressive) fender roll or shave. After reading all those horror stories about the fender liner tabs, I'll try and stay away from that. I think I'll try a 10mm spacer, remove the lip protection trim bit and possibly do a very light roll between the two top tabs to see if it'll fit.

To drop it to this height without any controllers and without having to readjust the arms, turn the car on while wheels are in the air. The suspension controller will let out most or all the air in the struts. Turn off the engine and lower it back down. Keep in mind that if jacking from a central jack point, the car will sit very low and you won't be able to retrieve your jack until the car is powered back on and suspension raised back up.

Hopefully this write up is helpful to someone out there. Had to look in too many different places for all this info so consolidating it may make lives a little easier.

 

Nice writeup!
just wanted to add that it's not recommended to knock the old studs out with a hammer as it can lead to premature wheel bearing damage.
I used this tool when I did mine, made it very easy to pop them out:

Also just searched and found this thread as well, similar concept:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...eel-studs.html