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Distortion with low bass?

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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 06:19 PM
  #16  
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Mbodall
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Originally Posted by kenaston99
Have you been able to find that video?

No, my car is half taken apart since I’ve been messing with the sub, so I’ll just take a few pics myself so you all can see what I did.
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Old Jun 20, 2018 | 06:41 PM
  #17  
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That would be awesome, thank you
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 02:16 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by kenaston99
That would be awesome, thank you
Here is a thread I just posted with these instructions.
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:06 AM
  #19  
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You're a saint, man, thank you.

I really don't want to get the ML sub if it's susceptible to being blown like that. Are there any good replacements for it?
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Old Jun 21, 2018 | 05:40 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by kenaston99
You're a saint, man, thank you.

I really don't want to get the ML sub if it's susceptible to being blown like that. Are there any good replacements for it?
My car has the sub that almost every other owner on here bought when their sub started going downhill. It's the Polk DB840DVC. Problem is, Polk discontinued that exact model and have replaced it with the DB842DVC. The specs are pretty darn close to the 840. If my 840 ever dies, I'm going to buy the 842. The main thing you need to pay attention to is the impedance. Our ML amps need to have a sub with an impedance of at least 8 ohm. Both the 840 and 842 are dual voice coil 4 ohm subs, so when wired in series it results in an 8 ohm load for the amp.

More importantly, the ML sub isn't susceptible to blowing really... just the paper/foam tears or separates. As long as the voice coil in your ML sub is still good, I would just get it re-coned. 99% of the time when the subs start sounding like they're blown, it's just because the paper speaker material and/or the foam surrounding it is torn or separated. I took my ML sub out of my 2001 and brought it to a speaker repair shop in town and paid $30 to have it re-coned... sounded good as new after that. There are a number of threads that talk about this and even have instructions on doing it yourself with a re-cone kit you can buy online.

Lastly, whatever you decide to do, I highly advise putting some soundproofing material over all the holes in the read deck when you're back there taking the sub out. It'll only cost you about $20 or less and an hour or less of your time. I just posted a thread about doing that here.
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Old Jun 22, 2018 | 12:50 PM
  #21  
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Is there a front bumper removal post on here that I seemingly haven't been able to find? I'm having trouble following the exploded view on the service manual, and would like a video or some screenshots. There seems to be a rivet on both sides of the bumper that prevent me from fully taking it off, and it's pissing me off. Do I have to go from underneath the plastic shielding to reach it?
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