Long-distance drive: questions
FYI, I used these aftermarket sensors on my wrecked LS. It got rid of the Parking Sonar error message in the instrument panel and seems to work fine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-OEM-PDC-Ultrasonic-Reverse-Parking-Sensor-for-Lexus-LS430-89341-50011/162505156475?hash=item25d60fe77b:g:SFcAAOSw-K9ZDTjN&vxp=mtr
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-OEM-PDC-Ultrasonic-Reverse-Parking-Sensor-for-Lexus-LS430-89341-50011/162505156475?hash=item25d60fe77b:g:SFcAAOSw-K9ZDTjN&vxp=mtr
I bought this part and worked fine for both front and rear bumpers. Search this text below on e bay.
For 2004-2006 Lexus LS430 PDC Ultrasonic Parking Aid Sensor Radar 89341-50050
This is for silver color. Part numbers for other colors are probably going to be different.
Here is the sample listing
https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-2004-20...-/172052720615
Last edited by BMW7_LS430; Feb 25, 2018 at 01:25 PM. Reason: color
These sensors seem to be an interesting idea now that I can see one can get it cheap. I won't do it now but are all the sensors the same or the back and front different? Also, can one get them in a different color?
Last edited by ipstat; Feb 25, 2018 at 02:19 PM.
No, pretty sure if one looks at the 6 on the front, only the middle two are the same, the outside 4 are smaller and the same...not sure about the back. Yes they come in the exact color just like door caps, etc., but they are way too expensive, I think they list for $350 each....so the eBay ones seem like they're worth a shot
Hey all,
I ended up not fixing the bushing or the gaskets. My mileage for the trip with hwy driving was about 22-27 mpg depending on how I calculated it. 95/5 hwy/cty. When it was 85/15 on the days we were in a city and staying over it was ~20 mpg.
I ended up not fixing the bushing or the gaskets. My mileage for the trip with hwy driving was about 22-27 mpg depending on how I calculated it. 95/5 hwy/cty. When it was 85/15 on the days we were in a city and staying over it was ~20 mpg.
Last week when I drove a 12 hour 1-way trip to Nashville, my tank average (as displayed on the dash screen, was never below 26MPG for all 6 fill-ups (roundtrip). Heck, I almost made 28MPG, as 1 tank average was 27.8MPG, and I was easily going from 75-80 MPH, loaded with luggage for 2 people, and 1 other passenger besides myself! I did the fuel economy improvement trick by putting a couple extra PSI into the tires, too.
What do you mean how you calculated it? The LS has the "tank average" that display's your mpg, and resets it after a pumping of gas. 22 sounds low for 95% highway, unless you were on a crowded bumper to bumper California highway!? lol
Great that you got that mileage.
Last week when I drove a 12 hour 1-way trip to Nashville, my tank average (as displayed on the dash screen, was never below 26MPG for all 6 fill-ups (roundtrip). Heck, I almost made 28MPG, as 1 tank average was 27.8MPG, and I was easily going from 75-80 MPH, loaded with luggage for 2 people, and 1 other passenger besides myself! I did the fuel economy improvement trick by putting a couple extra PSI into the tires, too.
Great that you got that mileage.
Last week when I drove a 12 hour 1-way trip to Nashville, my tank average (as displayed on the dash screen, was never below 26MPG for all 6 fill-ups (roundtrip). Heck, I almost made 28MPG, as 1 tank average was 27.8MPG, and I was easily going from 75-80 MPH, loaded with luggage for 2 people, and 1 other passenger besides myself! I did the fuel economy improvement trick by putting a couple extra PSI into the tires, too.
I bought my car with 81k, 2006 in Oct. 2016. I sorta made the mistake in letting lexus do a multipoint, and suddenly my car needed about $6k of work (none was needed at all per indie). This scare tactic is likely why people part with 10 y.o. LS430s, dealers scare the original owners.
One of the items were the LCA arms and bushings to the tune of $1500, and they implied I might not pass an inspection (bold faced lie). The indie installed bushings that I bought on eBay, OE, charged me I think almost $300 labor to press the old out, and the new in (I think someone here got $150 in FLA?), but he also cautioned me that I would feel NO difference. What he was trying to say was that yes they have cracks, but there is no free play. I have seen on YouTube where they are totally gone on a maxima and the guy can move the arm by hand as a result. So I am skeptical about what improvement new bushings will accomplish, but I did it and it's done.
Valve cover gaskets are good to take care of because eventually oil will be getting everywhere and it just gets worse...one can top off the oil if a minor leak, but it is a good thing to address imho...maybe tube seals, I dunno as haven't crossed that bridge yet.
One of the items were the LCA arms and bushings to the tune of $1500, and they implied I might not pass an inspection (bold faced lie). The indie installed bushings that I bought on eBay, OE, charged me I think almost $300 labor to press the old out, and the new in (I think someone here got $150 in FLA?), but he also cautioned me that I would feel NO difference. What he was trying to say was that yes they have cracks, but there is no free play. I have seen on YouTube where they are totally gone on a maxima and the guy can move the arm by hand as a result. So I am skeptical about what improvement new bushings will accomplish, but I did it and it's done.
Valve cover gaskets are good to take care of because eventually oil will be getting everywhere and it just gets worse...one can top off the oil if a minor leak, but it is a good thing to address imho...maybe tube seals, I dunno as haven't crossed that bridge yet.
IMO, there are 4 types of mechanics.
- Best: Those who would inspect and fix what they are supposed to and not bother you for other unrelated small issues.
- Good: Those who would inspect and fix issues but would recommend that other small issues that may have to be done. May or may not fix more than they need (OEM parts, etc.).
- Fair: Those who would insist that small issues need to be done and recommend large issues that may be done. May or may not fix more than they need. (OEM parts, etc.).
- Poor: Those who insist issues need to be fixed that do not need to be fixed and amplify other issues that have no bearing on the car's shape and service.
IMO, there are 4 types of mechanics.
- Best: Those who would inspect and fix what they are supposed to and not bother you for other unrelated small issues.
- Good: Those who would inspect and fix issues but would recommend that other small issues that may have to be done. May or may not fix more than they need (OEM parts, etc.).
- Fair: Those who would insist that small issues need to be done and recommend large issues that may be done. May or may not fix more than they need. (OEM parts, etc.).
- Poor: Those who insist issues need to be fixed that do not need to be fixed and amplify other issues that have no bearing on the car's shape and service.
My BMW indie--I paid them I think around $110-$120 to mount/balance 4 Michelin Pilot Super Sports, and swap out my customer provided TPMS, and return old parts. Why? Because my original valve cover caps are unavailable from BMW. They are a special cap, have writing on them, and maybe some classic car collector 30 years from now (doubtful!) would want accurate valve cover caps. I know that this type of shop won't crush all 4 jack pads, they just wouldn't. When I come to pick up my car, it's in the garage being bucket washed by hand. WINNING!
The Japanese indie--willing to show me my car on the lift and explain anything and everything. Looking for anything broken missing after timing belt job, can't find anything. All original parts returned in Aisin boxes (they added the tensioner afterwards by my request). Willing to install customer parts, entire wall of customer 200k mile cars, 300k (smaller)....etc. They even found a rear output shaft leak where the Lexus dealer in advising $6k worth of work, overlooked (why would they want to replace a $12 part)....
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