2005 ls 430 brake ware sensor reset
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2005 ls 430 brake ware sensor reset
I have a 2005 LS430 and the brake ware sensor came on let me know to replace the rear pads and in doing so I also changed the sensor. I can not find anything telling me how to reset the light on the dash. Does anyone know how to reset the light on the dash or should replace the front sensor also?
Thanks everyone for your help.
Thanks everyone for your help.
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sumrtoy (10-31-17)
#3
you need to purchase new sensors. I got a front/back set from Ebay, I think- about $15. They are different sizes so just make note. Once you replace the sensors, the light will clear up, as I recall.
#5
#6
I have a 2005 LS430 and the brake ware sensor came on let me know to replace the rear pads and in doing so I also changed the sensor. I can not find anything telling me how to reset the light on the dash. Does anyone know how to reset the light on the dash or should replace the front sensor also?
Thanks everyone for your help.
Thanks everyone for your help.
You probably know this but only the passenger side has the wear sensors, 1 on passenger front and 1 on passenger rear. Again I'm curious why you went to the rear pads?
The sensor is like a little wire loop. You can visually tell if the 'loop' is broken aka open by looking closely at it. If the loop still looks intact, chances are the sensor wasn't worn out needing replacement. As others said, check the front sensor (and pads while you're there.) There isn't any reset procedure once the faulty sensor is replaced. There are many threads where owners simply shoved a paper clip into the sensor to fake it out thus clearing the warning message, then zip-tying the sensor with paperclip up and out of the way of the rotor/caliper, and not relying on it anymore.
#7
He's not calling YOU an idiot. An "idiot light" is common automotive terminology for any malfunction indicator light on the dash that could possibly be better implemented with a gauge of some sort. YOU owe him an apology for the name-calling.
There is no reset procedure. Either your sensor's loop has been broken or not. If the dash idiot light went on then either the front or the rear passenger side sensor was worn through. Replace. If you're already replaced the rear then maybe it was your front that actually wore through. My car has 105K miles and my OEM rear pads still have over 50% pad left. Generally the fronts wear MUCH faster than the rears. Did you check the front brakes?
There is no reset procedure. Either your sensor's loop has been broken or not. If the dash idiot light went on then either the front or the rear passenger side sensor was worn through. Replace. If you're already replaced the rear then maybe it was your front that actually wore through. My car has 105K miles and my OEM rear pads still have over 50% pad left. Generally the fronts wear MUCH faster than the rears. Did you check the front brakes?
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#8
Pole Position
Check both front and rear. I had a tire rotation and driving home, the brake wear light came on. Strange.
I went back. They removed the rear tire and the sensor cable had been pinched when they put the tire on. (I don't know what they did).
They stripped and taped the cut wires with electrical tape and the light went off. I won't be getting a tire rotation at that place anymore.
I went back. They removed the rear tire and the sensor cable had been pinched when they put the tire on. (I don't know what they did).
They stripped and taped the cut wires with electrical tape and the light went off. I won't be getting a tire rotation at that place anymore.
#9
You know, I honestly thought 2x if I should use that COMMONLY USED term, for fear of younger millennials and others who are offended when there's no offense to be had. Being that you're on this mechanical site and thinking that you and 99.9% of automotive/mechanically inclined folks have used and heard that term, I used that commonly used term. Apparently you're the .1% who have never heard of that term. So, I'll have you know it wasn't a dig or insult to you. IT'S WHAT THE LAMPS ARE COMMONLY CALLED.
You couldn't be more wrong with your entire post. My intent during the 15 minutes I spent replying to you, was TO HELP you. You've probably never heard the term, "Don't look a gifthorse in the mouth" I'd bet.
I'll make a deal with you----pretend you never read my advice and I'll pretend I never observed your ignorant reply.
You couldn't be more wrong with your entire post. My intent during the 15 minutes I spent replying to you, was TO HELP you. You've probably never heard the term, "Don't look a gifthorse in the mouth" I'd bet.
I'll make a deal with you----pretend you never read my advice and I'll pretend I never observed your ignorant reply.
Last edited by RA40; 11-01-17 at 05:44 PM. Reason: edited quoted message out
#10
He's not calling YOU an idiot. An "idiot light" is common automotive terminology for any malfunction indicator light on the dash that could possibly be better implemented with a gauge of some sort. YOU owe him an apology for the name-calling.
There is no reset procedure. Either your sensor's loop has been broken or not. If the dash idiot light went on then either the front or the rear passenger side sensor was worn through. Replace. If you're already replaced the rear then maybe it was your front that actually wore through. My car has 105K miles and my OEM rear pads still have over 50% pad left. Generally the fronts wear MUCH faster than the rears. Did you check the front brakes?
There is no reset procedure. Either your sensor's loop has been broken or not. If the dash idiot light went on then either the front or the rear passenger side sensor was worn through. Replace. If you're already replaced the rear then maybe it was your front that actually wore through. My car has 105K miles and my OEM rear pads still have over 50% pad left. Generally the fronts wear MUCH faster than the rears. Did you check the front brakes?
#12
Lexus Champion
Design engineers are very familiar with designing something so that it's "idiot proof". It is not meant as a disparaging phrase, just meaning that it should be functional regardless of who uses it with no training required.
#13
Moderator
Also possible the new sensors the OP purchased are bad or have bad contact/connector. The brake wear sensors are not really sensors instead they are nothing more than a simple wire loop embedded in a piece of plastic, and when the pads wear down the loop inside the sensor block is cut causing loss of continuity which then illuminates the brake fault light. It is possible to test the sensor circuit by installing old sensor and clipping the worn plastic end off and twisting the two wire ends together and taping. If the repaired sensor wire loop makes the "idiot" fault light go off then the replacement sensor or it's connector is bad.
It is also possible to have a bad or loose contact/connector on the sensor since a bad electrical connection will cause the system to see no continuity just as if it had a worn brake sensor (with broken wire loop).
There has been at least one post in the past where someone replaced a worn brake sensor with a new one and it did not correct the fault light. I think in that case the person then bought an OEM brake sensor and that worked correctly. I don't think OEM sensors are required. I'd check the sensor connector first, make sure electrical contact points are clean and shiny and also try the repaired wire loop test to see if that corrects the fault light.
The other possibilities are 1) the front sensor has worn and lost continuity also, or 2) some other part of the brake system has an issue in which case you need to use techstream or take it to a shop that can read the Toyota/Lexus codes being thrown by the ECM.
It is also possible to have a bad or loose contact/connector on the sensor since a bad electrical connection will cause the system to see no continuity just as if it had a worn brake sensor (with broken wire loop).
There has been at least one post in the past where someone replaced a worn brake sensor with a new one and it did not correct the fault light. I think in that case the person then bought an OEM brake sensor and that worked correctly. I don't think OEM sensors are required. I'd check the sensor connector first, make sure electrical contact points are clean and shiny and also try the repaired wire loop test to see if that corrects the fault light.
The other possibilities are 1) the front sensor has worn and lost continuity also, or 2) some other part of the brake system has an issue in which case you need to use techstream or take it to a shop that can read the Toyota/Lexus codes being thrown by the ECM.
Last edited by Jabberwock; 11-01-17 at 08:23 PM.
#14
Lexus Fanatic
Now with the original topic, I purchased front/rear sensors for about $8 each. The joke will be on me if when I got to use them, they cause a warning light....then I'll know I shoulda spent the $78 for OE (outrageous, never, even BMW is $28 for OE, and about $12-$14 for OEM).
edit: Just thought of this, since my front brake setup is OE Lexus, and I will likely proactively replace the pads sooner than later to be kinder to the rotors, if it were possible to reuse the sensor, I would (my experience with BMW is that even though the sensor has not tripped, it disintegrates upon attempted removal from the old pad)...
p.s. I want to replace rear pads/rotors next spring, nothing wrong with them but I have those Centrics (400 hour of salt water without rusting they say) in the basement and the ones that came with the car have rusted hats--when I put the snows on I'll look, I hope the ones on now have the extractor bolt hole--the Centrics do, I opened one to verify. The fronts have anti seize put on by the selling dealership, I saw it peeking out from the hubs)...I still need to purchase the caliper bolts, maybe I should just get rears since the first front job will likely be pads only
Last edited by Johnhav430; 11-02-17 at 05:24 AM.
#15
The sensors don't disintegrate on our cars. Last week I replaced the front pads (before the sensors were worn) and was easily able to remove and reinstall the original sensors. The last time I did the brakes I used OEM Toyota pads, this time I went with Wagner Thermoquiet since they were half the cost. So far I'm happy. Work just fine and are quiet, maybe even "thermoquiet"!