Transmission Pan Leak & Rear Pinion Seal Leak
#1
Transmission Pan Leak & Rear Pinion Seal Leak
Has anyone ever changed the pan gasket? I already have the FIPG since I had to fix a leak on my LS 400 a couple of months ago. I've read that some of the bolts are hard to get to and you have to raise the engine some to make them more accessible. Also the rear pinion seal has a leak. How difficult is it to change this seal? I've read that the exhaust has to be dropped to get to it. I just bought this car and knew it had some issues that I would have to fix ( Outside mirrors, 1 parking sensor, CD player not working ) other than that the technician at the Lexus dealership said it was in pretty good condition. I turn wrenches and have a pretty good set of tools. I did all the work on my 400 since I purchased it but I have a manual for it which I don't have for the 430 yet. I'm thinking about buying a 2 day subscription from the TIS site and downloading all the material. Anyway any link to RELEVANT threads are appreciated or direct knowledge will be even better. I've searched and went through lots of pages in this forum and found only 1 thread talking about the rear pinion seal. Most transmission threads are basically about flush or drain and fill which i have already bookmarked but not about dropping the pan.
#2
Moderator
I just did a drain and fill a few days ago, and replaced the rear engine mount. It appeared that all the bolts for the pan were accessible from under the car without too much effort, but I wasn't really focusing on removing the pan. The dealership gives 1.8 hours to R&R the pan gasket, so it can't be too difficult.
As far as the pinion seal, they're quoting 4.8 hours labor for the seal to be changed, but I can't find a good diagram that shows the steps.
Here's an overview, which isn't much help...
A quick crawl under the car should tell you how much has to be removed before you can access the pinion seal.
I'll see what else I can find.
As far as the pinion seal, they're quoting 4.8 hours labor for the seal to be changed, but I can't find a good diagram that shows the steps.
Here's an overview, which isn't much help...
A quick crawl under the car should tell you how much has to be removed before you can access the pinion seal.
I'll see what else I can find.
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sha4000 (04-04-17)
#3
Moderator
Found more info here. Yes, looks like the exhaust is the first thing to go..
REMOVAL
REMOVAL
- REMOVE EXHAUST PIPE
- REMOVE PROPELLER SHAFT
- DISCONNECT REAR DRIVE SHAFTS
-
- Place matchmarks on the drive shafts and side gear shafts.
- Using a 10 mm hexagon wrench, disconnect the drive shafts from the differential. Torque: 83 Nm (850 kgf-cm, 61 ft. lbs.)
-
- Support the drive shafts securely.
- REMOVE BOTH STABILIZER BAR BRACKETS Remove the 4 bolts and both stabilizer bar brackets.
- REMOVE DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER ASSEMBLY
-
- Support the differential with a jack.
#4
Thanks and I KNEW you would be the one to respond. I've been reading this forum for the past couple of weeks and see that your one of the more active members. I read all your threads and posts. I'm not with the car at present. It's going to stay parked until I address the pan. I might have the dealership do the seal since I really feel want to dropping exhaust and all that. I still have some work to do on the 400. Of course the dealership gave me all these ridiculous prices for everything and of course I declined. Someone did call me back the next day saying they could work on the prices and the quote will be good to the end of April. I can do all the other stuff though.
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sha4000 (04-04-17)
#6
Moderator
Thanks and I KNEW you would be the one to respond. I've been reading this forum for the past couple of weeks and see that your one of the more active members. I read all your threads and posts. I'm not with the car at present. It's going to stay parked until I address the pan. I might have the dealership do the seal since I really feel want to dropping exhaust and all that. I still have some work to do on the 400. Of course the dealership gave me all these ridiculous prices for everything and of course I declined. Someone did call me back the next day saying they could work on the prices and the quote will be good to the end of April. I can do all the other stuff though.
jim
#7
Just got in from work so Im going to look over the material so when I get to the car I have an ideal if I want to tackle it. I really don't trust ANYONE working on my cars, not even the dealership. But that's just me. I'm going to do the pan for sure but the deciding factor on the seal is if I have the time. I feel like I'm cheating on my 400 lol. Thanks rkw I was hoping that you would also chime in.
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#8
Trans is big job. I have numerous slow engine pan and trans leaks. Thankfully none are currently severe enough to be dripping on the ground. I plan on addressing them as they progress. Hopefully the trans will be the last one to get worse as it requires removal. (Big Dollars!)
#9
I would not say dropping the pan is a big job. The worst part is the FIPG, sometimes it can be real hard to clean up but nothing a cordless drill and wire brush can't handle. Also I've never serviced a " sealed tranny" before so There's the whole get the proper level thing to contend with. On my 400 I would just flush it at the radiator cooler line and check the level through the dipstick for the next couple days and be done with it. I've done that twice at 120k and 190k with no problems.
#12
I had the car up on ramps today. First the back so I could check out the rear pinion leak. It did not look that bad so I sprayed it down good with brake cleaner and will check on it in a couple of days to determine if I can just change out the differential fluid and keep it topped up for now. I the put the front up on the ramps to check the tranny pan and I must say there's barely enough room under the car so I would certainly have to get it up higher to do the pan comfortably. All the bolts seemed to be accessible though. The leaked seemed to be in the back of the pan since most of the residue was on the bracket that holds the mount. Again I sprayed it down real good and cleaned everything up and will check on it later.
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sha4000 (04-05-17)
#14
Moderator
I had the car up on ramps today. First the back so I could check out the rear pinion leak. It did not look that bad so I sprayed it down good with brake cleaner and will check on it in a couple of days to determine if I can just change out the differential fluid and keep it topped up for now. I the put the front up on the ramps to check the tranny pan and I must say there's barely enough room under the car so I would certainly have to get it up higher to do the pan comfortably. All the bolts seemed to be accessible though. The leaked seemed to be in the back of the pan since most of the residue was on the bracket that holds the mount. Again I sprayed it down real good and cleaned everything up and will check on it later.
yeah, I'm not a "fat" guy, but at 6'1 and 210, it's tough getting under the car on regular ramps. Maybe put a 2X8 under each ramp to add a little clearance?
beyond that you'd have to use jack stands and raise it up higher.. I would start with RKW's suggestion and retorque the pan bolts and see if that helps.
Last edited by 2KHarrier; 04-05-17 at 04:27 PM. Reason: spelling is not my strong suite
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sha4000 (04-05-17)
#15
yeah, I'm not a "fat" guy, but at 6'1 and 210, it's tough getting under the car on regular ramps. Maybe put a 2X8 under each ramp to add a little clearance?
beyond that you'd have to use jack stands and raise it up higher.. I would start with RKW's suggestion and retorque the pan bolts and see if that helps.
beyond that you'd have to use jack stands and raise it up higher.. I would start with RKW's suggestion and retorque the pan bolts and see if that helps.