2005 LS430 Door Actuator DIY Write Up
09-27-15, 10:32 AM
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Racer
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2005 LS430 Door Actuator DIY Write Up
We performed this fix on a friends car yesterday and I wanted to recap our findings in case it helps someone in the future. We didn't find exactly the info we needed specific to the LS430 on the forum while doing it.
To start, the door panel has 7 screws, one is behind a plastic cover under the door handle.
After those are removed the door panel is only held on with plastic clips, start from the bottom and pull them out, then pull up on the door panel as it rests on the window ledge. When you reinstall the door panel you'll want to make sure to align it from the top first resting it on the window ledge where it sits, then push down, followed by pushing on the door panel to pop all clips back in. Then add the 7 screws.
Once you have the door panel off you'll need to unplug all of the electrical connections (I believe 5 total) and lastly the two wire cables that control the door lock. Make sure to remember the cable with white plastic goes on top and the green plastic clip cable goes on bottom. It is a good idea to remove these cables slowly so you can see exactly how they install, perhaps even take a picture as the orientation can be tricky to remember if you're not familiar with it.
Next, remove the 2 black 10mm screws that hold the door slider in place. Then remove 2 torx screws that hold a black rectangular module in place. Now it's time to remove the yellowish tinted plastic that covers the hole where the door actuator is. It has a tar like glue on it that you'll reuse so carefully pull it off all around the edges until you have full access to the area. Now this was the trickiest part of the ordeal for me as I didn't know how to get the black door actuator out. Remove the 2 screws that hold it in place on inside of the door and the 3 torx screws that hold the door latch on the side of the door. Now, you will need a flashlight and you will notice a rod inside the door hole opening. Follow this rod all the way up and you'll see it enters into a gold piece of metal. You'll notice a white or tanish color clip at the top of the rod. It's a tight squeeze but you can get a hand in there and pull the rod towards you, grabbing from the very top when you do this it should pop off, be very careful to pull evenly and from the top so you have leverage. If it's not coming out easily re-position and try again rather than bending it or breaking something, now when the rod comes off you are ready to pull the actuator unit out as a whole. The window track will be annoying and in your way but you can now slide it out of the bigger hole.
You'll want to unplug it. Where the connector goes in is where the motor is that you'll need to replace. Open this area up and replace the motor. Now when you close the unit most people wrap zip ties all around the plastic box in order to hold it in place. Make sure to use strong/thick enough zip ties to do the job right, do not use the tiny 3 inch long zip ties out there. Now once you've wrapped the zip ties all around the black housing in all different orientations to support the motor, you can also use some jb weld or epoxy around the housing to offer more support to the unit. If you do use this let it dry before reinstalling. Otherwise re-assemble the unit, plug it back in and install in reverse order. You want to test the unit before going through all of the effort to re-install in the car. Since you need to have the door closed to test it and you wont be able to do this, depress the button on the door jam that will trick the car to thinking the door is shut so you can cycle the lock and unlock and make sure actuator is working and sounds normal.
The window rail will be in the way again but if you leave it unbolted it will at least budge enough for you to get the regulator box back in. When you have it in the rod should like up, push it back into the hole and slide the bottom clip over it to hold it in place. Now install the 2 screws for actuator, 3 screws for door latch, 2 screws for window rail, put plastic back on. Install the black module with 2 screws. Now it's time to put the door panel on, start by installing the 2 cables white on top and green bottom. Then the 5 electrical connections. Now start from the top resting it on the window ledge and pushing down to make sure its secured. Now push down all around the door to get clips in place. Install 7 screws, cover for one of the screws, door switch and you're done.
Make sure you have plenty of time, the right tools, work slowly and don't force or rush anything to cause damage to any components. I wouldn't call this very difficult but it is time consuming doing it for the first time and you do have to have experience working on cars or you'll be in over your head. Really the only tools needed were a 10mm on 3/8 drive, zip ties and or glue Phillips and flathead screw drivers and the one torx bit. Sorry we didn't get any pictures, I wasn't anticipating on doing a write up, just thought I'd put this out there to assist others while it's fresh.
To start, the door panel has 7 screws, one is behind a plastic cover under the door handle.
After those are removed the door panel is only held on with plastic clips, start from the bottom and pull them out, then pull up on the door panel as it rests on the window ledge. When you reinstall the door panel you'll want to make sure to align it from the top first resting it on the window ledge where it sits, then push down, followed by pushing on the door panel to pop all clips back in. Then add the 7 screws.
Once you have the door panel off you'll need to unplug all of the electrical connections (I believe 5 total) and lastly the two wire cables that control the door lock. Make sure to remember the cable with white plastic goes on top and the green plastic clip cable goes on bottom. It is a good idea to remove these cables slowly so you can see exactly how they install, perhaps even take a picture as the orientation can be tricky to remember if you're not familiar with it.
Next, remove the 2 black 10mm screws that hold the door slider in place. Then remove 2 torx screws that hold a black rectangular module in place. Now it's time to remove the yellowish tinted plastic that covers the hole where the door actuator is. It has a tar like glue on it that you'll reuse so carefully pull it off all around the edges until you have full access to the area. Now this was the trickiest part of the ordeal for me as I didn't know how to get the black door actuator out. Remove the 2 screws that hold it in place on inside of the door and the 3 torx screws that hold the door latch on the side of the door. Now, you will need a flashlight and you will notice a rod inside the door hole opening. Follow this rod all the way up and you'll see it enters into a gold piece of metal. You'll notice a white or tanish color clip at the top of the rod. It's a tight squeeze but you can get a hand in there and pull the rod towards you, grabbing from the very top when you do this it should pop off, be very careful to pull evenly and from the top so you have leverage. If it's not coming out easily re-position and try again rather than bending it or breaking something, now when the rod comes off you are ready to pull the actuator unit out as a whole. The window track will be annoying and in your way but you can now slide it out of the bigger hole.
You'll want to unplug it. Where the connector goes in is where the motor is that you'll need to replace. Open this area up and replace the motor. Now when you close the unit most people wrap zip ties all around the plastic box in order to hold it in place. Make sure to use strong/thick enough zip ties to do the job right, do not use the tiny 3 inch long zip ties out there. Now once you've wrapped the zip ties all around the black housing in all different orientations to support the motor, you can also use some jb weld or epoxy around the housing to offer more support to the unit. If you do use this let it dry before reinstalling. Otherwise re-assemble the unit, plug it back in and install in reverse order. You want to test the unit before going through all of the effort to re-install in the car. Since you need to have the door closed to test it and you wont be able to do this, depress the button on the door jam that will trick the car to thinking the door is shut so you can cycle the lock and unlock and make sure actuator is working and sounds normal.
The window rail will be in the way again but if you leave it unbolted it will at least budge enough for you to get the regulator box back in. When you have it in the rod should like up, push it back into the hole and slide the bottom clip over it to hold it in place. Now install the 2 screws for actuator, 3 screws for door latch, 2 screws for window rail, put plastic back on. Install the black module with 2 screws. Now it's time to put the door panel on, start by installing the 2 cables white on top and green bottom. Then the 5 electrical connections. Now start from the top resting it on the window ledge and pushing down to make sure its secured. Now push down all around the door to get clips in place. Install 7 screws, cover for one of the screws, door switch and you're done.
Make sure you have plenty of time, the right tools, work slowly and don't force or rush anything to cause damage to any components. I wouldn't call this very difficult but it is time consuming doing it for the first time and you do have to have experience working on cars or you'll be in over your head. Really the only tools needed were a 10mm on 3/8 drive, zip ties and or glue Phillips and flathead screw drivers and the one torx bit. Sorry we didn't get any pictures, I wasn't anticipating on doing a write up, just thought I'd put this out there to assist others while it's fresh.
09-30-15, 11:53 AM
#3
Yes, Thanks for taking the time so share these details...
My mom's 2001 model is having this problem on the driver's door and she is waiting on me to come by and fix it... guess I've got weekend plans now.
My mom's 2001 model is having this problem on the driver's door and she is waiting on me to come by and fix it... guess I've got weekend plans now.
09-30-15, 12:05 PM
#4
Racer
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Really the trickiest part is knowing how to remove the rod. You basically take the top clip off with flathead and pull toward you. After that the second pita is getting the entire black actuator box reinstalled in the car as the window rail piece is always in the way.
If I did another I still think I'd need a good couple hours. For the first time it's likely a 5 hour project.
If I did another I still think I'd need a good couple hours. For the first time it's likely a 5 hour project.
12-12-15, 06:18 AM
#6
Why do dealers do nothing but replace parts on our cars when a consumer with no experience can find a 5 10 15 dollar part and fix it them selves such as a power door look a broken outside mirror and a dealer can not. They don't make enough money i guess. They don't have mechanics anymore just part changers. Just venting..
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