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Ordinary car wax has done the trick for me. My car came with the cracks 5 years ago and have not gotten any worse. After the wax is applied and rubbed in very well, I can barely feel them anymore.
Thanks for the obvious tip; I'll try some carnauba tomorrow!
I've had 2 ls430s and the steering wheel cracking happened on both of them. Had them repaired at JM Lexus in Margate Florida. Did a great job. Cost about $350. Darker stain than original but I'm happy.
The simple, easy in-place fix is to lightly steel wool (00000) the wood, hand rub with tung oil, let dry,redo this process until you cannot feel the cracks, then lightly steel wool and finish with a good wax. I've done this and it works.
I have plans to try fix my steering wheel this way. Do you have any before and after pictures?
I have plans to try fix my steering wheel this way. Do you have any before and after pictures?
No, I haven't taken any photos. If the crack lines are deep (which even when garaged will occur most of the time) they will be more than a surface scratch. However, since they are a crack they will be felt by your hands, which is annoying. My method will fill the cracks at the surface and it will feel smooth and look nice. I've not had the nerve to try to remove enough of the surface to attempt to get to the bottom of the crack. My cracks are visible from the top of the steering wheel and hardly seen from the drivers position. The tung oil will gradually wear away and you will feel the cracks again. No problem, I just redo the process in less that 30 minutes, let it dry and repeat another time or two. One final polish with the steel wool, rewax the wood and you're good to go for another 6 months or so.
I was quoted in post #16 in the year 2015, as applying car wax to the wheel and rubbing it off vigorously to smooth out the edges of the clear felt by my hands. After 10 years of ownership and living in Florida, the cracking has not progressed and it still looks equivalent to the day I purchased the car. FYI I do use a sunshade religiously, whenever parking in the sun.
I did the steel wool and tung oil treatment yesterday, and am quite happy with the results. I did three rounds and after the last one put on a coat of exterior car wax. I can barely feel any of the cracks, although they are still visible. As of las night the wheel still felt a little tacky, and I’m hoping it has dried a little this morning. I used small round cotton pads as applicators and they worked well and were easy to control.
2004 CL Black Cherry Pearl
Last edited by Diplocar; Jun 27, 2020 at 06:57 PM.
Reason: X
I have zero cracks on my 2002's steering wheel - it does not experience much sunlight or extreme heat. I don't clean the wood with anything except for a microfibre cloth very lightly dampened with water. Cleaning agents can damage the coating on the wood, as well as permeate into tiny cracks and make them worse.
If you can, use a windshield-mounted sun blocker, close your sunroof shade when parked in the sun, crack windows slightly when parked in sun to avoid greenhouse effect, and tint your windows as much as you can - this will keep your steering wheel and leather seats looking like new.
Four months later, the cracks are back. The repair did not last.
Until someone can identify how the steering wheel was finished, likely polyurethane or UV cured polyester, at the factory I wouldn't apply ANYTHING to it except a quality wax. I know some CL members have reported positive results using Tung Oil but this is a slippery slope. 100% pure Tung Oil, which you won't find at Lowes or Home Depot, is applied in several subsequent coats to Bare Wood. Any product labeled as a "Tung Oil Finish" is likely a blend of varnishes, solvents, and chemical driers with no actual Tung Oil at all. Compatibility issues between the two types of finish are only going to cause more problems. Would you apply a varnish product to the hood or front fender? Don't apply it to the steering wheel either just because there's wood underneath the thick protective finish.
Until someone can identify how the steering wheel was finished, likely polyurethane or UV cured polyester, at the factory I wouldn't apply ANYTHING to it except a quality wax. I know some CL members have reported positive results using Tung Oil but this is a slippery slope. 100% pure Tung Oil, which you won't find at Lowes or Home Depot, is applied in several subsequent coats to Bare Wood. Any product labeled as a "Tung Oil Finish" is likely a blend of varnishes, solvents, and chemical driers with no actual Tung Oil at all. Compatibility issues between the two types of finish are only going to cause more problems. Would you apply a varnish product to the hood or front fender? Don't apply it to the steering wheel either just because there's wood underneath the thick protective finish.
Wax just won't fully fill the feel of the cracks. I've used Tung Oil on my steering wheel for years with no adverse affects. Sure it does start to rub off after 6 months and you can feel a few cracks. But a quick redo with steel wool and reapplication of Tung Oil and it's good to go. I don't mind having to do that to have a nice smooth wheel. Normal maintenance to me and worth the effort. Much better than just doing nothing. Just my experience.