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Torque spec help - upper ball joint (?) castle nut

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Old 06-10-15, 11:53 AM
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honasbone
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Default Torque spec help - upper ball joint (?) castle nut

Not sure if it's actually called an upper ball joint. But I'm referencing the castle nut used to fasten the upper portion of the steering knuckle to what I believe is the upper control arm/upper ball joint. I had to pull off my steering knuckle today. Planning on putting it back on tonight and have all of the other torque specs. Just need the torque spec for the one castle nut on top of the knuckle.

I appreciate any help.
Old 06-10-15, 12:04 PM
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Tom57
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Here you go - 64 ft. lbs.(see attached). Also, nice job getting out of the stripped threads on your own as well!
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Front Suspension Components.pdf (1.09 MB, 848 views)
Old 06-10-15, 12:19 PM
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honasbone
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Originally Posted by Tom57
Here you go - 64 ft. lbs.(see attached). Also, nice job getting out of the stripped threads on your own as well!
Ah, that's great! Thanks much! It's been a nerve racking night and morning to say the least. But it sounds like all will be well after the machine shop is done with the knuckle and the kids are put to bed . Another night in the garage for me.
Old 06-10-15, 12:28 PM
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Hand thread everything before wrenching. Use a bristle brush to remove gunk on threads, if necessary. And, do not put any lubrication on the threads - ESPECIALLY aluminum parts. The torque specs are dry spec. Good luck!
Old 06-10-15, 12:51 PM
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honasbone
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Originally Posted by Tom57
Hand thread everything before wrenching. Use a bristle brush to remove gunk on threads, if necessary. And, do not put any lubrication on the threads - ESPECIALLY aluminum parts. The torque specs are dry spec. Good luck!
Uh-oh. I WD40'd the crap out of both bolts and both holes on the knuckle. I was hoping to rinse away any metal shards that might have been causing the problem. Of course that wasn't it.

I'll unload a spray bottle of isopropyl alcohol on all of them. Hopefully that'll clean them up well enough.
Old 06-10-15, 01:09 PM
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Yes, wash that WD40 off for sure. Use soap or alcohol to cut through it. You want the threads bone dry when torquing. Glad we caught you on that one. That may have lead to another stripped thread problem on the aluminum parts.
Old 06-10-15, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom57
Yes, wash that WD40 off for sure. Use soap or alcohol to cut through it. You want the threads bone dry when torquing. Glad we caught you on that one. That may have lead to another stripped thread problem on the aluminum parts.
Yes, very good catch. Much appreciated!
Old 06-11-15, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by honasbone
Yes, very good catch. Much appreciated!
How did re-assembly go?
Old 06-11-15, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom57
How did re-assembly go?
Had to go to a 2nd machine shop to get the threads fixed properly. The first shop ended up being too nervous to proceed and more or less asked me to take my part and just leave. Haha.

Got it worked out at the 2nd shop for $20. So was a bit cheaper in the end. And the guy was really cool as well, so that helped.

Got back under the car and everything went back together great. Very fortunate for that. It was sounding like I was going to have to buy a new knuckle for sure. But in the end that wasn't the case. Reassembled the knuckle, LBJ (+ red thread locker on those 2 bolts), brake, wheel back on and so far so good. Not a single suspension pop on the test drive last night or on the drive into work this morning. Driving down to Portland this weekend - 180 miles each way. That will put the new LBJ to the test for sure.

Amazing how much better life feels when your car isn't stuck on a jack stand without a wheel.
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