When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I decided to finally go ahead and do my spark plugs. I noticed there wasn't a thread with a step by step with pics, so I thought I'd add one. I got a quote from a dealer one time for this job, and it was just under $500, which is insane and probably takes a Lexus tech less than an hour to do.
It's a straightforward job, more difficult than an oil change or brakes, but MUCH easier to change plugs than most modern cars.
I highly recommend getting a set of spark plug sockets, the kind with a rubber retainer inside. You also need a set of socket extensions and flex joints. The most difficult part of the job is the angle going in and out can be tough, the right length of extension makes all the difference. Also, the consensus seems to be you should always do this job when the engine has cooled down so you don't pull the threads out.
The spark plug I used was Denso Iridium SK20R11. It is the factory plug and what I would recommend. You can buy them for around $10 a piece at Amazon or RockAuto.
First thing is to remove the engine cover, it's held on with two 10mm bolts.
Next you'll see you have a fairly clear path to get to them.
Drivers Side
The Passenger Side has a few things in the way, this black box tied to the air intake and the car battery. I was able to install only taking out the black box with the intake hose.
Remove the black box, it's held down by a 10mm bolt, 2 vacuum hoses, and an air intake hose.
Now you also have a clear shot at the passenger side.
Next, remove the coil packs, each one is held down by a 10mm bolt. I prefer to do it one by one so there's no mix up. You can either unplug them by the clips, or pull them out with the wires still connected. Just be careful to make sure you have enough slack when you pull it out of the way.
This is was the tubes look like when you pull them out
Next, take a 5/8" (or 16mm) spark plug socket, and with an extension, place it down the hole and turn counterclockwise. There should be very little resistance, just make sure its seated down completely as it takes some downward pressure.
After removing, inspect the spark plugs. Mine were actually in decent shape, EXCEPT for the one that was the most difficult to get to, on the passenger side closest to the firewall. My guess is the dealership that did the job skipped it, thinking no one would ever inspect his work.
A great way to put the spark plugs in so they won't get cross threaded is to get some 5/8" heater hose at an auto parts store, and place the plug inside. The hose fits the tube perfectly, and keeps it centered. Put the spark plug down the hole and press down firmly, then just keep hand tightening clockwise until the spark plug seats. This is a great way to make sure you don't get it cross threaded. Once it's seated and you can no longer turn the hose, I then remove and put a spark plug socket on, and turned it an additional quarter turn. The factory manual rates it at 15 ft lbs. It's very little torque.
I then took a little dialectric grease, and placed a small amount on the tip rubber boot that has the coil pack that adjoins to the spark plug.
I then seat the coil pack onto the spark plug, press down, and put the 10mm bolt back in. Be VERY careful about putting the coil pack bolt in. It's very easy to get it cross threaded and your screwing it into aluminum. Make sure the angle is correct, I would hand tighten and then just torque until it's snug.
The only plug that is a bit difficult to get to is the one on the passenger side, near the firewall. Even still, I was able to remove it without taking the battery out. Again, I found this one had looked like it had never been changed, so it had almost 150k miles on it.
After finishing, check your work and make sure all the coils are attached, with the weather clips snapped in and the coil packs screwed in. Make sure the packs are flush against the block. Then put the "black box" back in, attach the intake and vacuum hoses, then attach the engine cover.
My guess is the first time you do this job, count on it taking about 2-3 hours. After doing it once, most people could easily do it it in around an hour. I would go very slow and take your time, you don't want to cross thread the spark plugs into the block or the coil packs.
I know that this thread is a few years old, but I'm thinking about changing the plugs on my 2001 LS430. This thread mentions pictures, but I can't seem to find them. Are they still around somewhere so that I can access them?
Help Please!!!
I have a problem that I don't see addressed in here.
When I pulled out the first plug there was a large amount of oil all over the outside of the plug socket. It seems like that shouldn't be like that. It seems like, with the plug out, I am going to have oil run down into the cylinder?
I was hoping to never replace the valve cover gaskets because they look so difficult to access with how the wiring and hoses are routed over and around them so tightly.... I was going to try and fix oil leak on left front but I found that the bolts were just loose so I tightened them up and decided that it was ok since it looked like a major hassle to get the valve covers off and back on without damaging some of the wiring or hose connections.... Do I have a seal problem (like are there seals for the tubes down by the plugs)? Or am I just trippin'?
Sounds like a spark plug tube seal is leaking. These seals are exposed to a lot of heat and they get brittle. Tightening the valve cover bolts shouldn't have any effect on the leak. Replacing valve cover gaskets and tube seals isn't too difficult of a diy. There are several threads on this board to guide the way.
Sounds like a spark plug tube seal is leaking. These seals are exposed to a lot of heat and they get brittle. Tightening the valve cover bolts shouldn't have any effect on the leak. Replacing valve cover gaskets and tube seals isn't too difficult of a diy. There are several threads on this board to guide the way.
If this was a Chevy 350 in a 1970 Chevelle, I would have had it done, lickety split,,,, but the wire looms and hoses just don't seem to want to be peeled back enough to get the covers off and back on without breaking something else or just not being to get them back into the original positions. Those valve covers are not that small and maneuvering them out,,, and then back in, under all that wiring/hose madness looks hella s***y.
Is there a trick to getting the looms pulled back? Because other than a couple of the bottom side bolts are super difficult to get at,, its just pulling the cover out and getting it back in under all the madness (with the gasket intact)...
You can unhook the connectors and get a little slack. There are also a few 10mm bolts that hold the harness down that can be removed for more slack. The tube seals are on the inside of the valve covers held in by 4 small steel tabs that you bend out of the way with a flat head screwdriver. Pry out the seals and install the new ones with a hammer and large socket. Bend the tabs back into place. The valve cover gaskets are basically large o-rings that sit in groove on the cover. You will need a little rtv to seal the tops of the half-moon seals to the new gasket. If you have a few different length extensions and a spark plug socket this job isn't difficult.
Just completed this on my 06 with 82,398 miles. Piece of cake, though the driver's side was more challenging than the passenger side due to space constraints. If you have a wide variety of extensions, then it isn't too bad. I was worried about breaking the COP wires as others have done but found that using pliers made it easy. I used Snap On Talon Grip needle nose pliers and they all popped off without issue. A gentle squeeze on the tab and an upwards pull and off they came. Used a touch of dielectric grease on the COP boots and torqued the plugs to 13ft pounds. Took me about an hour start to finish.
Finally, here is the pile of tools I used to complete the job.
Based on how the plugs looked, I'm confident I could have run them until 120k but since they are only $60, I figured I would do them. Car fired right up and is smooth as ever. If you are going to do this yourself, run the motor first and get it up to operating temperature. Then disconnect the airbox piece on the passenger side... the one that hooks to the airbox and the throttle body. There is a skinny hose and a fat hose also and I found them to be a bit stubborn. If you warm the car up, those two hoses will be much more pliable. Once you remove the box, then let the motor cool down before you take the plugs out.
Nice to see another forum member with a mild Snap-On addiction !
My go to ratchets are my S936. Got them all on eBay for about $35 each. The 80-tooth ones are too nice to use lol 1/4 3/8 1/2 you name it long handle regular
When I first got into them I was amazed with the date codes. Some of mine are from the 50's. How many have used them over the years before I got them? Much of mine are brand new from eBay about 65% of list price. I surmise students bought them for the sole purpose of flipping them..
All of my stuff is overkill for my use. I only wrench on my own cars and a few select friends. Still, to me it means something to own the best. Buy once, cry once...
Don't do like I did and pull on the coil on plug wire by hand. My hand slipped and I ended up pulling all 4 wires out. It was a pain to solder the wired back together. In the future I would use a tool to grab the female end of the COP connector.
Just completed this on my 06 with 82,398 miles. Piece of cake, though the driver's side was more challenging than the passenger side due to space constraints. If you have a wide variety of extensions, then it isn't too bad. I was worried about breaking the COP wires as others have done but found that using pliers made it easy. I used Snap On Talon Grip needle nose pliers and they all popped off without issue. A gentle squeeze on the tab and an upwards pull and off they came. Used a touch of dielectric grease on the COP boots and torqued the plugs to 13ft pounds. Took me about an hour start to finish.
Based on how the plugs looked, I'm confident I could have run them until 120k but since they are only $60, I figured I would do them. Car fired right up and is smooth as ever. If you are going to do this yourself, run the motor first and get it up to operating temperature. Then disconnect the airbox piece on the passenger side... the one that hooks to the airbox and the throttle body. There is a skinny hose and a fat hose also and I found them to be a bit stubborn. If you warm the car up, those two hoses will be much more pliable. Once you remove the box, then let the motor cool down before you take the plugs out.
Hi @Romanova, how do you take the coil pack out of cylinder #1, which is the front one in driver side next to dipstick? It's blocked by the dipstick and it's hard to move the steel tube for the dipstick. Thanks for help!
And the fact that the dealership skipped that last plug does tick me off, it seems you almost have to do jobs yourself if you want to see them done right.
This really drives me nuts with car repair. A tech is on the front lines. Imagine if front lines people in every occupation took it upon themselves to do, or to not do, work that was paid for. I always heard that a fair % of warranty parts, ones where the customer has no means of visually verifying, winds up in the trunks and home workshops of techs. Which is why in this day and age valuable parts are serialized and scanned or no warranty reimbursement to dealer.
My dad never got mad in life. When his alternator on his Ford failed, he was given 3 choices back then. 1) OE new 2) aftermarket new 3) used
He went for #2, based on the quote. He usually doesn't, but he popped the hood and he saw the alternator had grease markings with a year that didn't match his, i.e. used part. He did go ballistic.
Hi @Romanova, how do you take the coil pack out of cylinder #1, which is the front one in driver side next to dipstick? It's blocked by the dipstick and it's hard to move the steel tube for the dipstick. Thanks for help!
Just push it out of the way a touch, doesn't take much force IIRC.
10-02-18, 08:39 AM
