Tune up tomorrow
#32
I just dropped the car off at the dealer during my lunch break. They are two miles away from my office. It's too much a pain the in the butt for me to deal with myself right now. I know I have been back and forth but I changed my mind back to my original plan. I'll let you know if the dealer uses anti-seize or not.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-03-14 at 09:39 AM.
#33
How many ft/lbs does the factory manual say the spark plugs should be torqued to?
Also, some newer spark plugs say not to use anti-seize, but I usually think it's a good idea, especially when you're talking about a plug that goes in there for such a long period of time.
Do the Denso plugs require anti-seize? Copper anti-seize?
Thanks
Also, some newer spark plugs say not to use anti-seize, but I usually think it's a good idea, especially when you're talking about a plug that goes in there for such a long period of time.
Do the Denso plugs require anti-seize? Copper anti-seize?
Thanks
#34
I just dropped the car off at the dealer during my lunch break. They are two miles away from my office. It's too much a pain the in the butt for me to deal with myself right now. I know I have been back and forth but I changed my mind back to my original plan. I'll let you know if the dealer uses anti-seize or not.
#35
$130.88 for the labor and $64 for the parts. I ordered the parts through their online dept and asked the dealer to match another labor quote from an independent Lexus shop. The dealer came back and said they do not use anti-seize grease.
I did not have much of a drive back to the office but she feels a little smother and slightly more powerful. She also fired up in less time then she normally takes. Like 1/3 of a second vs about 1 second. Not much of a change but not much expected either. Looking forward to seeing my mpg numbers on the highway home. Anyway, I'm happy it is done.
I did not have much of a drive back to the office but she feels a little smother and slightly more powerful. She also fired up in less time then she normally takes. Like 1/3 of a second vs about 1 second. Not much of a change but not much expected either. Looking forward to seeing my mpg numbers on the highway home. Anyway, I'm happy it is done.
Last edited by Lavrishevo; 02-03-14 at 12:20 PM.
#37
These are the only spark plugs I use Anti-Seize on. That long shank goes down into the head very tight. After about 40 to 50K miles they will start to seize. A huge problem for a lot of Ford V8's. A dealer will charge you at least $300.00 to $500.00 to replace them. They are such a pain in the ***!
#38
When my plugs were replaced, the coil assembly "boots" were in pretty good condition. Seeing as they retail for 123.24 each, I sure hope they don't need to be replaced every 120k with the plug change. I figured that I didn't want to spend an extra 575 or so on new coil assemblies.
In my particular case, I needed 2 new air struts and LCA bushings. So that's where my "extra" money went.
BTW, my mechanic said that, in general, the LCA bushings are always shot once they pass 100k.
In my particular case, I needed 2 new air struts and LCA bushings. So that's where my "extra" money went.
BTW, my mechanic said that, in general, the LCA bushings are always shot once they pass 100k.
#39
Driver School Candidate
Here is my R&R procedure for COP type engines. I do around 5 to 10 a week. I'm a little **** so bear with me.
1. Remove all the coils at the same time.
2. Blow compressed air down into each plug tube to remove any foreign matter so that it will not fall into the cylinder upon plug removal.
3. Remove spark plug.
4. I always check the gap even though it says not too adjust it. I don't trust it.
5. Insert new plug into spark plug socket.
6. Give the threads a shot of SeaFoam lubricant or your preferred brand.
7. Hand screw plug into head as tight as you can with your hands. Tighten with wrench until firmly snug.
8. Blow ignition coil with compressed air. Wipe down with a rag with a little of the SeaFoam on it. Coil will look brand new and have a slight coating of moisture control on it.
9. Apply die-electric grease to the tip of the coil, the female end where the spark plug goes in.
10. Insert coil and tighten.
11. Apply die-electric grease to the engine side of the connector for the coil. Again, this will keep the connection dry and much easier to remove the next time.
This is how I have been doing COP plugs since they 1st started. Some technicians will just remove the plugs, throw new one's in it and throw the coil back on it. Take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
1. Remove all the coils at the same time.
2. Blow compressed air down into each plug tube to remove any foreign matter so that it will not fall into the cylinder upon plug removal.
3. Remove spark plug.
4. I always check the gap even though it says not too adjust it. I don't trust it.
5. Insert new plug into spark plug socket.
6. Give the threads a shot of SeaFoam lubricant or your preferred brand.
7. Hand screw plug into head as tight as you can with your hands. Tighten with wrench until firmly snug.
8. Blow ignition coil with compressed air. Wipe down with a rag with a little of the SeaFoam on it. Coil will look brand new and have a slight coating of moisture control on it.
9. Apply die-electric grease to the tip of the coil, the female end where the spark plug goes in.
10. Insert coil and tighten.
11. Apply die-electric grease to the engine side of the connector for the coil. Again, this will keep the connection dry and much easier to remove the next time.
This is how I have been doing COP plugs since they 1st started. Some technicians will just remove the plugs, throw new one's in it and throw the coil back on it. Take a few more minutes and do it correctly.
#40
Moderator
Remove the bolt holding the dipstick tube in place and gently swivel it out of the way. Be careful not to bend it as the bottom will still be inside the block.
BTW the post you referenced above is from Feb of 2014.
BTW the post you referenced above is from Feb of 2014.
The following 2 users liked this post by bradland:
bentley888 (02-21-19),
StanVanDam (06-10-23)
#41
This is what I was going to suggest as well. Pretty simple process.
#42
Lexus Fanatic
This is coming up for me. I will reread the thread to see what plugs to get (Maxima was never ever use anything but OE--don't think this car is like that, and BMW was not like that, BMW I used Bosch OEM which saved $3/plug). My torque wrench is 5-75 ft. lbs so that means I would not be able to do 13, since torque wrenches are not accurate below 20% of the top end of their range. Most people swear by "feel" anyway, and I would never use antiseize....
edit: the delta was greater with my BMW, dealer charges $450.
Online, parts were around $68 for Bosch OEM (maybe $20 more for BMW OE), so I diy'd. Since that car needs them every 45k.
When I got done, everytime someone asked me if there was any difference with the new plugs, I was honest, absolutely positively no difference whatsoever (then again I did them at 43k). The Maxima was same experience--I did them at 60k as recommended. Second time at 130k. Skipped the 180k and at 250k same plugs that got changed at 130k, not one bit of difference that the plugs have 2X the recommended mileage on them lol So I don't expect to see any difference after I do it...I'm at 113.5k now.
edit: the delta was greater with my BMW, dealer charges $450.
Online, parts were around $68 for Bosch OEM (maybe $20 more for BMW OE), so I diy'd. Since that car needs them every 45k.
When I got done, everytime someone asked me if there was any difference with the new plugs, I was honest, absolutely positively no difference whatsoever (then again I did them at 43k). The Maxima was same experience--I did them at 60k as recommended. Second time at 130k. Skipped the 180k and at 250k same plugs that got changed at 130k, not one bit of difference that the plugs have 2X the recommended mileage on them lol So I don't expect to see any difference after I do it...I'm at 113.5k now.
Last edited by Johnhav430; 02-21-19 at 05:21 AM.
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