Not Your Usual "Trunk Won't Open" Story
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 215
From: Ontario, Canada
I had a trunk opening problem 3 weeks ago. In my situation, whether I used the keyfob or the interior switch to open the trunk, the electronic latch will audibly unlatch the trunk, but the trunk lid stayed locked exactly in place.
The instrument cluster then thinks the trunk is open, with the red "doors open" icon lit up, and if the car is on, the LCD will display TRUNK OPEN. The warning buzzer sounded every time the car accelerated from a stop. However, the mechanical latch was certainly jammed and still holding the trunk securely closed.
Using the key in the underside keyslot of the trunk lid didn't do anything, even when turning with enough strength to almost break the keyfob. The electronic unlatching mechanism doesn't engage at all when using the keyslot.
However, when the keyfob or the interior switch is used, the electronic unlatch engages (with no effect).
I managed to get the trunk open by using the keyfob and applying a maximum amount of arm force to lift the lid up simultaneously as the electronic unlatch engaged. I then liberally sprayed the latching areas with white lithium grease.
Since then, sometimes when I try to close the trunk, it doesn't catch, but it causes the latch on the trunk lid to lock itself. This causes the next attempts to close the trunk to fail, with the trunk lid latch just bouncing up off U-hook on the striker plate. To correct this, you have to pull the latch open using a key or screwdriver (gently pull from left side going to the right and it will snap to the unlock position). Or you can use the emergency release handle on the inside of the trunk lid - it will do the same thing and cause the latch to snap to the unlock position. Then you can try closing the trunk again.
If you have a stiff wire bent in the right shape, and can fish it to the latch, you could possibly jimmy the lock open. However, getting the right shape and fishing it to the latch seems very difficult.
On the LS460/600 forums here, someone unplugged the battery for awhile and reconnected it, which reset the whole thing and corrected the problem.
I may have caused this problem because I recently used a PC7424XP random orbital polisher to buff out some swirl marks on the trunk lid. I suspect this caused the trunk to vibrate and misalign itself with the trunk striker plate.
Once you get the trunk open, you can adjust the alignment of the trunk lid and the striker plate per the attached pic. Note that you may be able to loosen the striker plate bolts without taking all the trim apart, so try that first to save yourself some time.
The instrument cluster then thinks the trunk is open, with the red "doors open" icon lit up, and if the car is on, the LCD will display TRUNK OPEN. The warning buzzer sounded every time the car accelerated from a stop. However, the mechanical latch was certainly jammed and still holding the trunk securely closed.
Using the key in the underside keyslot of the trunk lid didn't do anything, even when turning with enough strength to almost break the keyfob. The electronic unlatching mechanism doesn't engage at all when using the keyslot.
However, when the keyfob or the interior switch is used, the electronic unlatch engages (with no effect).
I managed to get the trunk open by using the keyfob and applying a maximum amount of arm force to lift the lid up simultaneously as the electronic unlatch engaged. I then liberally sprayed the latching areas with white lithium grease.
Since then, sometimes when I try to close the trunk, it doesn't catch, but it causes the latch on the trunk lid to lock itself. This causes the next attempts to close the trunk to fail, with the trunk lid latch just bouncing up off U-hook on the striker plate. To correct this, you have to pull the latch open using a key or screwdriver (gently pull from left side going to the right and it will snap to the unlock position). Or you can use the emergency release handle on the inside of the trunk lid - it will do the same thing and cause the latch to snap to the unlock position. Then you can try closing the trunk again.
If you have a stiff wire bent in the right shape, and can fish it to the latch, you could possibly jimmy the lock open. However, getting the right shape and fishing it to the latch seems very difficult.
On the LS460/600 forums here, someone unplugged the battery for awhile and reconnected it, which reset the whole thing and corrected the problem.
I may have caused this problem because I recently used a PC7424XP random orbital polisher to buff out some swirl marks on the trunk lid. I suspect this caused the trunk to vibrate and misalign itself with the trunk striker plate.
Once you get the trunk open, you can adjust the alignment of the trunk lid and the striker plate per the attached pic. Note that you may be able to loosen the striker plate bolts without taking all the trim apart, so try that first to save yourself some time.
Thread Starter
Driver School Candidate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: OH
Thanks StanVanDam, I'll try that but i don't hear any clicking or anything when I push the key fob button or pull the latch from inside. when you used the key in the mechanical lock did the key turn at all?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 215
From: Ontario, Canada
It turned but didn't do anything. Didn't click, didn't feel any resistance, didn't operate the electronic actuator, absolutely nothing. The computer probably thought the trunk was open, and the latch must have unlatched internally but somehow remained locked, so the key didn't do anything.
I just tested it now with my working trunk lid and confirmed that the key only tells the electronic latch to open up. It is NOT a mechanical linkage (otherwise I would have been able to open it before).
In my situation, since the computer thought the trunk was open, the key didn't do anything (although odd that the keyfob and interior switch successfully engaged the electronic actuator).
There is a recessed rectangle on the passenger-side underside of the trunk lid. I'm not sure if that is a cutout for a backup camera (which others have used to install a backup camera), or maybe it is how you gain access to the mechanical part of the lock. I briefly tried prying it out but didn't have the correct tools and didn't want to break it. Maybe try getting inside there.
In your situation, if the electronic actuator doesn't engage in any situation, I'm not sure how else to open the trunk. Either you can try to jimmy the lock, pay a locksmith to try that, or take it to Lexus where they will probably jimmy the lock, charge you for a new trunk closer actuator, new trunk latch, and labor to adjust the striker plate and trunk lid position.
I just tested it now with my working trunk lid and confirmed that the key only tells the electronic latch to open up. It is NOT a mechanical linkage (otherwise I would have been able to open it before).
In my situation, since the computer thought the trunk was open, the key didn't do anything (although odd that the keyfob and interior switch successfully engaged the electronic actuator).
There is a recessed rectangle on the passenger-side underside of the trunk lid. I'm not sure if that is a cutout for a backup camera (which others have used to install a backup camera), or maybe it is how you gain access to the mechanical part of the lock. I briefly tried prying it out but didn't have the correct tools and didn't want to break it. Maybe try getting inside there.
In your situation, if the electronic actuator doesn't engage in any situation, I'm not sure how else to open the trunk. Either you can try to jimmy the lock, pay a locksmith to try that, or take it to Lexus where they will probably jimmy the lock, charge you for a new trunk closer actuator, new trunk latch, and labor to adjust the striker plate and trunk lid position.
Lead Lap
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 486
Likes: 3
From: IN
The trunk actuator fuse is, of all things, in the trunk. Drivers side. The same fuse is also used for the fuel door opener so if the fuel door works, the fuse is good.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: MD
Lexus LS430, I locked my my truck lid opener in a inoperative position, I tried to unlock in a operative postion with my mechanical key, but it will not turn. So I'am unable to get in my truck.
Driver
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 113
Likes: 1
From: TX
You are going to need a new trunk latch mechanism.. They run about 5-600 dollars thru dealer as well... I had the same issue when i accidently slamed the trunk when it was overstuffed on our trip to the beach.. The kiddos baby swing cable got stuck in the latch and i kept trying to close it unaware. The trunk was unable to close or latch anymore and i also needed to jump start car everymorning. I even took out all of the trunk lights thinking this would at least keep the car from draining battery, but it did not work... Luckily i got a real good hookup from my local Lexus dealer and had it replaced. Price tag would have been over 600 for parts and labor according to the paperwork i saw. Good luck
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
From: Ca
Question?my trunk lid opens but somtimes it only opens a small amount, not enough to open completely.I inspected the mecinsim and it appears that the rubber stop could be worn on one side and not be pushing the spring all the way to clear the latch.Can i just pick up a new rubber part? thanks
6th Gear
Joined: Jul 2025
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
I had a trunk opening problem 3 weeks ago. In my situation, whether I used the keyfob or the interior switch to open the trunk, the electronic latch will audibly unlatch the trunk, but the trunk lid stayed locked exactly in place.
The instrument cluster then thinks the trunk is open, with the red "doors open" icon lit up, and if the car is on, the LCD will display TRUNK OPEN. The warning buzzer sounded every time the car accelerated from a stop. However, the mechanical latch was certainly jammed and still holding the trunk securely closed.
Using the key in the underside keyslot of the trunk lid didn't do anything, even when turning with enough strength to almost break the keyfob. The electronic unlatching mechanism doesn't engage at all when using the keyslot.
However, when the keyfob or the interior switch is used, the electronic unlatch engages (with no effect).
I managed to get the trunk open by using the keyfob and applying a maximum amount of arm force to lift the lid up simultaneously as the electronic unlatch engaged. I then liberally sprayed the latching areas with white lithium grease.
Since then, sometimes when I try to close the trunk, it doesn't catch, but it causes the latch on the trunk lid to lock itself. This causes the next attempts to close the trunk to fail, with the trunk lid latch just bouncing up off U-hook on the striker plate. To correct this, you have to pull the latch open using a key or screwdriver (gently pull from left side going to the right and it will snap to the unlock position). Or you can use the emergency release handle on the inside of the trunk lid - it will do the same thing and cause the latch to snap to the unlock position. Then you can try closing the trunk again.
If you have a stiff wire bent in the right shape, and can fish it to the latch, you could possibly jimmy the lock open. However, getting the right shape and fishing it to the latch seems very difficult.
On the LS460/600 forums here, someone unplugged the battery for awhile and reconnected it, which reset the whole thing and corrected the problem.
I may have caused this problem because I recently used a PC7424XP random orbital polisher to buff out some swirl marks on the trunk lid. I suspect this caused the trunk to vibrate and misalign itself with the trunk striker plate.
Once you get the trunk open, you can adjust the alignment of the trunk lid and the striker plate per the attached pic. Note that you may be able to loosen the striker plate bolts without taking all the trim apart, so try that first to save yourself some time.
The instrument cluster then thinks the trunk is open, with the red "doors open" icon lit up, and if the car is on, the LCD will display TRUNK OPEN. The warning buzzer sounded every time the car accelerated from a stop. However, the mechanical latch was certainly jammed and still holding the trunk securely closed.
Using the key in the underside keyslot of the trunk lid didn't do anything, even when turning with enough strength to almost break the keyfob. The electronic unlatching mechanism doesn't engage at all when using the keyslot.
However, when the keyfob or the interior switch is used, the electronic unlatch engages (with no effect).
I managed to get the trunk open by using the keyfob and applying a maximum amount of arm force to lift the lid up simultaneously as the electronic unlatch engaged. I then liberally sprayed the latching areas with white lithium grease.
Since then, sometimes when I try to close the trunk, it doesn't catch, but it causes the latch on the trunk lid to lock itself. This causes the next attempts to close the trunk to fail, with the trunk lid latch just bouncing up off U-hook on the striker plate. To correct this, you have to pull the latch open using a key or screwdriver (gently pull from left side going to the right and it will snap to the unlock position). Or you can use the emergency release handle on the inside of the trunk lid - it will do the same thing and cause the latch to snap to the unlock position. Then you can try closing the trunk again.
If you have a stiff wire bent in the right shape, and can fish it to the latch, you could possibly jimmy the lock open. However, getting the right shape and fishing it to the latch seems very difficult.
On the LS460/600 forums here, someone unplugged the battery for awhile and reconnected it, which reset the whole thing and corrected the problem.
I may have caused this problem because I recently used a PC7424XP random orbital polisher to buff out some swirl marks on the trunk lid. I suspect this caused the trunk to vibrate and misalign itself with the trunk striker plate.
Once you get the trunk open, you can adjust the alignment of the trunk lid and the striker plate per the attached pic. Note that you may be able to loosen the striker plate bolts without taking all the trim apart, so try that first to save yourself some time.
Pit Crew
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 175
Likes: 19
From: Ga
LS trunk lid can be opened manually if necessary to perform repair yourself but is a PITA. Open the cargo pass thru compartment in rear seat. Use a bright flashlight and locate emergency trunk lever, if you can't see the trunk lever due to items in trunk, no go.
If you can see the lever, as in my case, I used a 3/8" piece of stainless steel stock I had in my shop to push downward on lever while 2nd person was outside lifting on the trunk lid. The lever is recessed and not much clearance so choice of rod needs to be rigid and of minimal width and flex
Be aware of your surroundings while attempting, words will come out of your mouth that will even suprise yourself
If you can see the lever, as in my case, I used a 3/8" piece of stainless steel stock I had in my shop to push downward on lever while 2nd person was outside lifting on the trunk lid. The lever is recessed and not much clearance so choice of rod needs to be rigid and of minimal width and flex
Be aware of your surroundings while attempting, words will come out of your mouth that will even suprise yourself
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