LS 430 Door Lock Actuator Tutorial
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 12
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From: AZ
Hey guys, sorry it took me a while to get back on this. Took the family on a little vacation to Santa Barbara, man I sure miss living there!
I got the door off and took the actuator motor out again. I couldn't tell for sure but I'm pretty certain it was the heat that melted the glue and the zip tie I had on there loosened up........this heat here is terrible!
I added three zip ties to the housing and glued again (just for added measure) and pulled those darn ties super tight. It works great now but we'll see if the heat does it's thing again.
Thanks again guys!!
-Dan
I got the door off and took the actuator motor out again. I couldn't tell for sure but I'm pretty certain it was the heat that melted the glue and the zip tie I had on there loosened up........this heat here is terrible!
I added three zip ties to the housing and glued again (just for added measure) and pulled those darn ties super tight. It works great now but we'll see if the heat does it's thing again.
Thanks again guys!!
-Dan
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2
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From: Texas
First time to post on this forum, I have a question for Randy B concerning the brushes for the actuator motors. Can you buy replacement brushes? If so, where? This sounds like the cheapest and easiest fix, to me. Of course, I haven't attempted it yet. What is the part number for the new motors. Thanks in advance for your help. I don't think I would have attempted this without it.
Last edited by wittmd03; Aug 10, 2011 at 06:41 PM.
I replaced the lock actuator motor in my 04 LS430 for my front passenger door yesterday using this thread. Getting everything out of the door was easy. Getting to the motor was a little more difficult because I have the EZ door closer which required a little more disassembling. Tip to opening up the motor housing - use a razor and a small hammer to get yourself started and proceed with a small flat head to pry slowly. The hardest part of this whole process was getting the whole unit back into the door. My only advise for that is, be aggressive with the window rail. If you don't move that thing out of the way, you won't ever get the lock actuator back into place. All in all, I'm glad I fixed my problem for about $10 instead of $900.
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Florida
Brushes.
First time to post on this forum, I have a question for Randy B concerning the brushes for the actuator motors. Can you buy replacement brushes? If so, where? This sounds like the cheapest and easiest fix, to me. Of course, I haven't attempted it yet. What is the part number for the new motors. Thanks in advance for your help. I don't think I would have attempted this without it.
As for the motor replacement number, please read through the thread, as its in there somewhere, and I don't feel like searching for it right now.
Randy B
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Texas
Thanks Randy for the info. I replaced the passenger front door acutuator yesterday was very simple after reading the threads. Thanks to all parties responsible for the threads. I bought a new actuator on Ebay, at that time I was looking for information concerning getting door panel off and removing actuator. I wasn't aware of the little motor causing the problem until later. I will if needed, go with your suggested route in the future. Thanks again to all.
Last edited by wittmd03; Aug 15, 2011 at 05:38 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 7
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From: TX
Well I just finished replacing the door lock actuator motor on the easy close door model. I'm pretty good at the mechanic thing and this was a *****. Probably 4-5 hours. It was the same motor as the non easy close doors but instead of replacing the brush pack I got out the dremel and ground a flat side on the new motor shaft. The old gear slid right on.
The easy close includes the door latch, the locking mechanism, and the acctuator. The whole assembly is screwed together with a mild adhesive or more likely a sealer. I had to disassemble the thing to get to the motor. But hey, saved $1075 according to the local Lexus dealership prices.
The time required to do this job was increased slightly due to the "extra" plug I found while assembling the door. It was for some box that was on top of the clear plastic on the door. I think it was the smartkey receiver but I'm not sure. While assembling the door I could not remember where this plug went, disassembled the door again, and then found the stupid box sitting on next to the interior panel. Duh...
Done and it works great again.
The easy close includes the door latch, the locking mechanism, and the acctuator. The whole assembly is screwed together with a mild adhesive or more likely a sealer. I had to disassemble the thing to get to the motor. But hey, saved $1075 according to the local Lexus dealership prices.
The time required to do this job was increased slightly due to the "extra" plug I found while assembling the door. It was for some box that was on top of the clear plastic on the door. I think it was the smartkey receiver but I'm not sure. While assembling the door I could not remember where this plug went, disassembled the door again, and then found the stupid box sitting on next to the interior panel. Duh...
Done and it works great again.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6
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From: CA
I read this DIY post several times thinking this is the right fix for my door lock because I have to manually open and close the door lock on the front passenger door. The smartkey when unlocked, only unlocks the driver and the 2 rear passenger doors; same thing for locking. I initially think it was the little electric motor too. I took this little electric motor out today, and then tested it with a battery. The little electric motor actually spins clockwise and counterclockwise, whichever polarity used. So if my electric motor spins, what else could be the problem? I am assuming for everyone that has posted on this thread, their little electric motor seized and or makes hella loud sounds? So you guys replaced it. But what about for guys like me. Little damn electric motor works. I'm thinking it's electrical? Any thoughts? I'm going to test to see if it's an electrical problem or relay? Or that stupid black box behind the door panel where all the wires plug in to? Could this unit go out?
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: CA
Ok, I kind of put the electric motor back in and tested the switch. Fuses are good. It can lock and unlock the driver and rear passenger door locks, but not the front passenger door (this is the door I'm having issues with). The little electric motor spins but barely. It seems like the gears barely move back and forth. Is the electric motor suppose to do constant spinning to move the gear all the way clockwise and stop? Or say counterclockwise and stop when it locks/unlocks? What I'm trying to figure is if the white plastic gears are suppose to keep spinning one direction until it locks or unlocks and stop. If thats the case, then the lock will be able to lock and unlock. Which will then mean my small electric motor is busted and needs replacing? Am I explaining this well?
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8
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From: TX
Ok, I kind of put the electric motor back in and tested the switch. Fuses are good. It can lock and unlock the driver and rear passenger door locks, but not the front passenger door (this is the door I'm having issues with). The little electric motor spins but barely. It seems like the gears barely move back and forth. Is the electric motor suppose to do constant spinning to move the gear all the way clockwise and stop? Or say counterclockwise and stop when it locks/unlocks? What I'm trying to figure is if the white plastic gears are suppose to keep spinning one direction until it locks or unlocks and stop. If thats the case, then the lock will be able to lock and unlock. Which will then mean my small electric motor is busted and needs replacing? Am I explaining this well?
You should likely remove the motor and order one from eBay. I just ordered mine last night and hope to get this installed later this week. I am driving my F250 30 each way to work while the door panel is off and it uses a bit more gas, and is not as comfortable.
I will report back when I have success!!
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
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From: AZ
Just did the install with mabuchi motor from ebay. I ran into a problem though. It works fine locking, but when I unlock there is a grinding noise. I installed and reinstalled the acutator around 5 times double checking my work....same problem. Epoxied everything back to together, and still got the grinding noise. Any suggestions? If not, I will just fork out the $180 for a new one on ebay.
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Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 6
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From: CA
Yeah this door lock ***** is wack. Freakin Lexus is so damn complicated. All the Hondas I've owned and worked on are so darn easy. But then again, we're talking about a Lexo. So I ended up messing with it more and trying to figure out if it was the gears or what not and it flew out along with the spring. Now I can't put it back on. Looks like I'm going to have to search for a used unit from a junkyard. Don't think I'll spend the dollar to replace the whole stupid unit got quoted remember it was like 600 or 700 for it. Gay. Anyhow, so went back manually locking and unlocking the door. Stupid Lexo *****.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 8
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From: TX
Thanks so much to the OP and all the contributors. I bought the motor on eBay for less than $7 shipped and was able to get my passenger door lock actuator functioning again.
I thought I was going to have to throw in the towel at the end because I put it all back together (almost) and the lock still did not move. Well, as it turns out, I had pulled one of the connectors off of the door computer when taking the door panel off - thinking I was going to take all of them loose to remove the panel. Anyway, I plugged it back in and it works perfectly.
I will add something about the window track. There is no reason to "get agressive" as is mentioned in an earlier post. If you pull the rubber/felt window guide out of the track it is possible to pull it out of the door. I discovered this because I try to pry it out of the way. So I had to remove it to straighten it.
Finally, I found it easier to file the flat on the shaft rather than use the original armature. The shaft is not hardened and a sharp file re-shaped the flat easily in 5 min. I felt this was much more easy to control than a rotary tool. I held the motor in a vice with the shaft supported by a block of wood.
Thanks again!
I thought I was going to have to throw in the towel at the end because I put it all back together (almost) and the lock still did not move. Well, as it turns out, I had pulled one of the connectors off of the door computer when taking the door panel off - thinking I was going to take all of them loose to remove the panel. Anyway, I plugged it back in and it works perfectly.
I will add something about the window track. There is no reason to "get agressive" as is mentioned in an earlier post. If you pull the rubber/felt window guide out of the track it is possible to pull it out of the door. I discovered this because I try to pry it out of the way. So I had to remove it to straighten it.
Finally, I found it easier to file the flat on the shaft rather than use the original armature. The shaft is not hardened and a sharp file re-shaped the flat easily in 5 min. I felt this was much more easy to control than a rotary tool. I held the motor in a vice with the shaft supported by a block of wood.
Thanks again!
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: AZ
Yeah this door lock ***** is wack. Freakin Lexus is so damn complicated. All the Hondas I've owned and worked on are so darn easy. But then again, we're talking about a Lexo. So I ended up messing with it more and trying to figure out if it was the gears or what not and it flew out along with the spring. Now I can't put it back on. Looks like I'm going to have to search for a used unit from a junkyard. Don't think I'll spend the dollar to replace the whole stupid unit got quoted remember it was like 600 or 700 for it. Gay. Anyhow, so went back manually locking and unlocking the door. Stupid Lexo *****.