DIY: Oil change Lexus LS430 2003
02-04-11, 02:26 PM
#16
Moderator
I know Walmart accepts used oil. Just take it back to the shop area and they will accept it.
02-04-11, 11:14 PM
#17
They just might accept it at walmart. I have been told at other places they do not take it. They charge me 11 bucks plus cost of the filter with a free wash when I bring in my own oil. I usually watch the big screen, cup or 2 of joe and a warm cookie or two and off I go. I think it is good to show your face around the dealer and get to know them.
The whole thing is a hassle to do myself now at 51 y/o.
The whole thing is a hassle to do myself now at 51 y/o.
02-05-11, 06:31 AM
#18
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: CA
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most places that sell oil will take back used oil. I use the 5 qt. mobil 1 containers and fill them back up with used oil. When I get to 3-4 containers in my garage I take them all down to autozone and dump them. Takes me less than 10 minutes to dump it every 6-9 months as I change the oil on all my cars, motorcycles etc. At 40 I still enjoy doing it myself but I can see a day where I won't at some point.
BTW on the LS, I was able to change the oil quite easily without ramps or lifting the car at all. I do have ramps and will probably use them at the next change just to make it easier, but it is doable on this car without jacking.
BTW on the LS, I was able to change the oil quite easily without ramps or lifting the car at all. I do have ramps and will probably use them at the next change just to make it easier, but it is doable on this car without jacking.
02-05-11, 05:25 PM
#19
Driver School Candidate
03-21-11, 04:53 PM
#21
Instructor
ok66: You would have to be fairly skinny, maybe 130lbs, no more than 150. If you have a UL, setting the height to High would give you another inch or so to work with.
Removing the 2 10mm bolts on the oil filter flap can be difficult if you barely have any room to move around. I would also wear eye/mouth/face protection if you are unscrewing the oil filter with your face directly under it.
If you have a tall curb on level ground that you can drive on, try that and see if you have enough room to work. Make sure your tire is solidly on the curb and can't slip off, apply the parking brake, and chock the tires for good measure.
Removing the 2 10mm bolts on the oil filter flap can be difficult if you barely have any room to move around. I would also wear eye/mouth/face protection if you are unscrewing the oil filter with your face directly under it.
If you have a tall curb on level ground that you can drive on, try that and see if you have enough room to work. Make sure your tire is solidly on the curb and can't slip off, apply the parking brake, and chock the tires for good measure.
03-21-11, 08:35 PM
#22
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ok66: You would have to be fairly skinny, maybe 130lbs, no more than 150. If you have a UL, setting the height to High would give you another inch or so to work with.
Removing the 2 10mm bolts on the oil filter flap can be difficult if you barely have any room to move around. I would also wear eye/mouth/face protection if you are unscrewing the oil filter with your face directly under it.
If you have a tall curb on level ground that you can drive on, try that and see if you have enough room to work. Make sure your tire is solidly on the curb and can't slip off, apply the parking brake, and chock the tires for good measure.
Removing the 2 10mm bolts on the oil filter flap can be difficult if you barely have any room to move around. I would also wear eye/mouth/face protection if you are unscrewing the oil filter with your face directly under it.
If you have a tall curb on level ground that you can drive on, try that and see if you have enough room to work. Make sure your tire is solidly on the curb and can't slip off, apply the parking brake, and chock the tires for good measure.
I just got my 2005 few days ago. What a joy ride! I plan to do some simple DIY that I can handle. I was thinking just hand reach it without going under the car. If that's not possible, what's the proper way to jack up this car? I'm sure to have more questions to ask here. Thanks everyone. I've been reading lot of posts from you guys for quite some time, and finally got a chance to get one last weekend. Like it!!!
03-22-11, 10:32 AM
#23
Instructor
Yes, drain as much as possible out of the car and fill exactly what your manual says. Each year is different, so use the manual that came with your car. Also, some people have mixed up quarts and litres when reading the specs, so watch out for that.
Yes, change the drain plug gasket every time.
Also, read up on the other oil threads on this forum, search "5w-30" if "oil" has too many results. Try starting with https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...il-change.html
Since the DIY above links to another site and doesn't list torque specs or a few other details, I'll post the service manual steps here:
1. Remove two 10mm bolts on the oil filter flap (it's on the driver side) of the engine under cover shield, or the entire under cover shield (~15 bolts).
2a. Remove the oil filler cap
2b. Remove the oil drain plug, drain the oil into a container
3. Remove the oil filter using Special Service Tool 09228-07501
4a. Check and clean the oil filter installation surface
4b. Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of the new filter
4c. Lightly screw the oil filter into place by hand. Tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
4d. Using SST 09228-07501, tighten the oil filter. If enough space is available, use a torque wrench and torque to 17.5 N*m (13 ft*lbf). If not enough space is available, tighten the oil filter 3/4 of a turn, by hand or common wrench.
5a. Install a new drain plug gasket and the drain plug, torquing to 39 N*m (29 ft*lbf)
5b. Add new oil to specification
5c. Install oil filler cap
6. Check for engine oil leaks
7. Install engine under cover
Yes, change the drain plug gasket every time.
Also, read up on the other oil threads on this forum, search "5w-30" if "oil" has too many results. Try starting with https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls4...il-change.html
Since the DIY above links to another site and doesn't list torque specs or a few other details, I'll post the service manual steps here:
1. Remove two 10mm bolts on the oil filter flap (it's on the driver side) of the engine under cover shield, or the entire under cover shield (~15 bolts).
2a. Remove the oil filler cap
2b. Remove the oil drain plug, drain the oil into a container
3. Remove the oil filter using Special Service Tool 09228-07501
4a. Check and clean the oil filter installation surface
4b. Apply clean engine oil to the gasket of the new filter
4c. Lightly screw the oil filter into place by hand. Tighten it until the gasket contacts the seat.
4d. Using SST 09228-07501, tighten the oil filter. If enough space is available, use a torque wrench and torque to 17.5 N*m (13 ft*lbf). If not enough space is available, tighten the oil filter 3/4 of a turn, by hand or common wrench.
5a. Install a new drain plug gasket and the drain plug, torquing to 39 N*m (29 ft*lbf)
5b. Add new oil to specification
5c. Install oil filler cap
6. Check for engine oil leaks
7. Install engine under cover
09-26-12, 09:28 AM
#25
Instructor
The URL in the original post no longer works. Regarding the no-jack oil change, I tried it last night and it worked just fine.
Here is my step by step no-jack oil change procedure:
Items required:
* disposable rubber gloves
* large garbage bag or large sheet of cardboard as a floor protector (not required if you position the drain pan correctly)
* flashlight (if your lighting underneath isn't good)
* low-profile oil catcher, ie. Canadian Tire part number 28-3113-0. This pan is wide enough to handle any potential splashing, holds up to 15L, and has a spout to pour back into the bottle you used.
* stubby ratchet. I use the Mastercraft Maximum 1/4in Drive Stubby Flex Head Ratchet, part # 58-9010-6
* 10mm socket for underbody cover, 14mm socket for oil drain bolt
* Oil filter wrench (only needed if someone overtightened the filter). SST 09228-07501, I bought an equivalent part on eBay named "Toyota Lexus Oil Filter Wrench Socket Tool 73mm 14 flute A03".
* Oil filter (the original 90915-20004 filter is better than the superceding 90915-YZZD3)
* 4.4 or 4.5 or 5.0L jug of 5W-30. Spec is 4.5L (4.8 US Quarts), but being short 100mL or over by 500mL isn't going to hurt. I recommend using any synthetic 5W-30 that meets API SN (or higher) and ILSAC GF-5. Any synthetic brand with the lowest cost per litre would be fine with 8000km intervals. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum if you want the cleanest engine, Pennzoil Platinum if you want the second best.
* Oil fill funnel. I just cut off the top of a plastic bottle. Costs nothing, fits perfectly in the oil fill hole, and in the oil jug for pouring your used oil back in the jug.
Steps:
1) Set your air suspension height switch to HIGH, idle long enough for your car to reach max height. Oil drains better when slightly warmed. Don't run it too long or you'll risk burning yourself with hot oil or on the hot oil pan.
2) Oil may also drain better when there is air pushing down from above, so remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick.
3) Put on rubber gloves. With the oil pan, drain plug gasket (90430-12031), ratchet, 10 and 14mm sockets, filter (90915-20004), floor protector, and flashlight (if needed) in hand, crawl underneath from driver side front. Using the 10mm socket, undo the 5 or 6 nearest bolts on the underbody cover so you can access the oil filter. Undoing the 2 bolts for the filter flap isn't enough - without the car jacked, there is no clearance to open the flap up without horribly bending the shield. Note that 3 of the 6 bolts are longer than the others, so keep track of where the longer bolts are needed for reinstallation.
4) Position the floor protector and drain pan under the drain bolt. Be aware that it will start at a strong stream and you will probably get some on your hand, and it will quickly slow to drain directly underneath the drain hole. This is where a wide pan, rubber gloves, and having the oil not excessively hot comes useful.
5) Remove drain bolt with 14mm socket. It will take 5-10 mins to drain to a slow drip, 20-30mins for a complete drain.
6) Peel the old drain plug gasket off if it didn't fall into the oil already. Wipe drain clean, then install drain bolt with new gasket, torque to what you think is 29 ft*lbf and don't overtighten. I lightly coated the gasket with oil as most rubber gaskets work better when not dry.
7) Crawl backwards and slowly bring the drain pan with you, making sure it doesn't splash out the spout. Position the pan underneath the oil filter.
8) Using your oil filter wrench (should not be needed if you screw filters on by hand), loosen the oil filter. On my first oil change, the filter was on too tight to undo by hand due to overtightening by the Lexus or Toyota dealership that last did it. I didn't have the oil wrench socket at the time, so I wrapped the end of the oil filter with about 12 broccoli rubber bands stacked on each other. This provided enough thickness and grip to undo with an incorrectly-sized oil filter wrench.
9) Slowly unscrew the oil filter by hand until it starts dripping oil, so you can see where the oil is going to land. Reposition your drain pan if needed. Unscrew all the way, drain the filter into your pan, and wait until the filter hole is done draining, about 5-10 minutes.
10) Lightly oil the gasket of the new filter (supposed to use new oil but I just use the old oil since it's already in front of me).
11) Screw the new filter in, tighten to what you think is 13 ft*lbf. Make your next oil change easier and do not overtighten! I have been able to remove the filter by hand on every oil change since the first, never had any leaks. Screw by hand until full contact, then once tight, give it a 1/6 to 1/8 turn tighter to seal.
12) Re-attach all of the underbody bolts.
13) Grab all your items and get out from under the car.
14) Replace dipstick and oil fill cap tightly.
15) Start engine, idle (don't rev) for 3-5 minutes to pressurize the oil system, and check underneath car for any oil leaks.
16) Pour used oil into your now-empty jug, take that and your used filter to the nearest oil change place for recycling.
Now you've saved money, you did everything correctly, and nothing was overtightened. Pat yourself on the back.
Here is my step by step no-jack oil change procedure:
Items required:
* disposable rubber gloves
* large garbage bag or large sheet of cardboard as a floor protector (not required if you position the drain pan correctly)
* flashlight (if your lighting underneath isn't good)
* low-profile oil catcher, ie. Canadian Tire part number 28-3113-0. This pan is wide enough to handle any potential splashing, holds up to 15L, and has a spout to pour back into the bottle you used.
* stubby ratchet. I use the Mastercraft Maximum 1/4in Drive Stubby Flex Head Ratchet, part # 58-9010-6
* 10mm socket for underbody cover, 14mm socket for oil drain bolt
* Oil filter wrench (only needed if someone overtightened the filter). SST 09228-07501, I bought an equivalent part on eBay named "Toyota Lexus Oil Filter Wrench Socket Tool 73mm 14 flute A03".
* Oil filter (the original 90915-20004 filter is better than the superceding 90915-YZZD3)
* 4.4 or 4.5 or 5.0L jug of 5W-30. Spec is 4.5L (4.8 US Quarts), but being short 100mL or over by 500mL isn't going to hurt. I recommend using any synthetic 5W-30 that meets API SN (or higher) and ILSAC GF-5. Any synthetic brand with the lowest cost per litre would be fine with 8000km intervals. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum if you want the cleanest engine, Pennzoil Platinum if you want the second best.
* Oil fill funnel. I just cut off the top of a plastic bottle. Costs nothing, fits perfectly in the oil fill hole, and in the oil jug for pouring your used oil back in the jug.
Steps:
1) Set your air suspension height switch to HIGH, idle long enough for your car to reach max height. Oil drains better when slightly warmed. Don't run it too long or you'll risk burning yourself with hot oil or on the hot oil pan.
2) Oil may also drain better when there is air pushing down from above, so remove the oil filler cap and the dipstick.
3) Put on rubber gloves. With the oil pan, drain plug gasket (90430-12031), ratchet, 10 and 14mm sockets, filter (90915-20004), floor protector, and flashlight (if needed) in hand, crawl underneath from driver side front. Using the 10mm socket, undo the 5 or 6 nearest bolts on the underbody cover so you can access the oil filter. Undoing the 2 bolts for the filter flap isn't enough - without the car jacked, there is no clearance to open the flap up without horribly bending the shield. Note that 3 of the 6 bolts are longer than the others, so keep track of where the longer bolts are needed for reinstallation.
4) Position the floor protector and drain pan under the drain bolt. Be aware that it will start at a strong stream and you will probably get some on your hand, and it will quickly slow to drain directly underneath the drain hole. This is where a wide pan, rubber gloves, and having the oil not excessively hot comes useful.
5) Remove drain bolt with 14mm socket. It will take 5-10 mins to drain to a slow drip, 20-30mins for a complete drain.
6) Peel the old drain plug gasket off if it didn't fall into the oil already. Wipe drain clean, then install drain bolt with new gasket, torque to what you think is 29 ft*lbf and don't overtighten. I lightly coated the gasket with oil as most rubber gaskets work better when not dry.
7) Crawl backwards and slowly bring the drain pan with you, making sure it doesn't splash out the spout. Position the pan underneath the oil filter.
8) Using your oil filter wrench (should not be needed if you screw filters on by hand), loosen the oil filter. On my first oil change, the filter was on too tight to undo by hand due to overtightening by the Lexus or Toyota dealership that last did it. I didn't have the oil wrench socket at the time, so I wrapped the end of the oil filter with about 12 broccoli rubber bands stacked on each other. This provided enough thickness and grip to undo with an incorrectly-sized oil filter wrench.
9) Slowly unscrew the oil filter by hand until it starts dripping oil, so you can see where the oil is going to land. Reposition your drain pan if needed. Unscrew all the way, drain the filter into your pan, and wait until the filter hole is done draining, about 5-10 minutes.
10) Lightly oil the gasket of the new filter (supposed to use new oil but I just use the old oil since it's already in front of me).
11) Screw the new filter in, tighten to what you think is 13 ft*lbf. Make your next oil change easier and do not overtighten! I have been able to remove the filter by hand on every oil change since the first, never had any leaks. Screw by hand until full contact, then once tight, give it a 1/6 to 1/8 turn tighter to seal.
12) Re-attach all of the underbody bolts.
13) Grab all your items and get out from under the car.
14) Replace dipstick and oil fill cap tightly.
15) Start engine, idle (don't rev) for 3-5 minutes to pressurize the oil system, and check underneath car for any oil leaks.
16) Pour used oil into your now-empty jug, take that and your used filter to the nearest oil change place for recycling.
Now you've saved money, you did everything correctly, and nothing was overtightened. Pat yourself on the back.
Last edited by StanVanDam; 04-01-16 at 03:42 PM. Reason: Added hyperlinks
09-26-12, 03:28 PM
#26
Moderator
Almost all retailers that sell oil are required by law to accept used oil. I buy most of my oil from walmart. I collect the oil in used milk container and bring it back to Walmart - just drive in back by the service bays and they will accept it. Same is true for Autozone, Nationwide, etc. Never discard used oil in trash or other non recycle type of disposal - a gallon of used oil improperly disposed can cause a lot of devastation to local water supply and/or environment.
02-01-13, 09:31 PM
#29
I discovered I could change the oil much more easily. The LS430 dip stick tube accepts the extractor tube (the bigger one too) from a Tempo Oil Boy. I vacuum sucked the oil out the dipstick tube and while that was being sucked out removed the oil filter. When it was done, being ****, I removed the drain plug and there wasn't even one drop of oil that came out. My LS is missing the under engine front fairing so the filter removal was brain dead easy but I intent to find a replacement fairing at a dismantler (junk yard) as soon as possible.
Mercedes was always easy to do this way (and their filters on the top too) but it's nice to see that the Lexus V8 is good for this too. No more jacking up the car. I never did like going underneath even with jack stands.
I imagine other vacuum oil removers would work too but the Oil Boy works quite well.
Mercedes was always easy to do this way (and their filters on the top too) but it's nice to see that the Lexus V8 is good for this too. No more jacking up the car. I never did like going underneath even with jack stands.
I imagine other vacuum oil removers would work too but the Oil Boy works quite well.
The following users liked this post:
GregMN (03-07-23)
02-02-13, 10:29 AM
#30
Lexus Champion
I discovered I could change the oil much more easily. The LS430 dip stick tube accepts the extractor tube (the bigger one too) from a Tempo Oil Boy. I vacuum sucked the oil out the dipstick tube and while that was being sucked out removed the oil filter. When it was done, being ****, I removed the drain plug and there wasn't even one drop of oil that came out. My LS is missing the under engine front fairing so the filter removal was brain dead easy but I intent to find a replacement fairing at a dismantler (junk yard) as soon as possible.
Mercedes was always easy to do this way (and their filters on the top too) but it's nice to see that the Lexus V8 is good for this too. No more jacking up the car. I never did like going underneath even with jack stands.
I imagine other vacuum oil removers would work too but the Oil Boy works quite well.
Mercedes was always easy to do this way (and their filters on the top too) but it's nice to see that the Lexus V8 is good for this too. No more jacking up the car. I never did like going underneath even with jack stands.
I imagine other vacuum oil removers would work too but the Oil Boy works quite well.
I'll go with draining. But then again I don't do my own oil changes. Used to with my previous cars, but not with this one. Just my opinion.