Have come across a 2002 LS430 Ultra with 64,000 miles. It's a 1 owner car. Good overall maintenance. Several scratches on bumpers. Original paint.Has had the rear air suspension redone, timing belt done and new tires. Wondering if this would be a reliable car or would the fact that it is the 'Ultra' model with all of the extras these models have 'nickel and dime' you. I know the LS430s are great cars and reliable but not sure about how or if the extras on the Ultra models would affect reliability. Thanks.

 

I have a 2005 UL with 165k miles, owned for 16 years now (2009 at 35k miles). Had CPO warranty. Plenty of repairs over the year, but few related to UL ... so far. Here are issues I've learned about here and/or seen:

(1) 2005 radar cruise computer failed at 50k, covered under warranty. This was a pattern failure with the original computer around 50k. With 2002 you are probably fine, if you even have laser adaptive cruise. Check it if you have it and if so that it works.

(2) Height ride low/high switch did nothing (no indication on dashboard even) / did not work due to a bad height sensor? I think UL has more sensors than the regular LS, which might still have one for headlight/AFS. The replacement has been fine for 15 years

(3) Doorlocks are very expensive ($1000+ per door?) if they go out, and depending how they fail can keep door from closing until fixed (I changed my auto-unlock/key fob to only unlock driver door to minimize wear and tear. It's in the manual, some keypress setting I forget). Not yet an issue for me. Self-fix possible in some cases cheap from what I've read here.

(4) Rear a/c has some line from the front that can rust out/fail. Remember reading that can be $2000 with labor? So see if that can be checked. My car is going in for no A/C soon. But it may just be a recharge needed after 20 years, some slow issues developed over last 2 years. I'll update on another thread when done.

*** (5) air suspension: the biggest or perhaps most common one, as in the end they are wear items since they include the shock, even if the bags are not leaking. Struts are $1500+ each on sale in USA, and not sure if fronts and rears still available for 2002. I have my originals, but could probably use new ones. Aftermarkets get very mixed reviews, or if you know parts to convert, you can convert to springs / coilovers if you have a willing/competent mechanic

My car has a very slight sensation of wheel vibration over 60mph. Minimized since I rotated tires and a dealer years ago said I had a slightly bent wheel which I may have accidentally reintroduced from being the spare. Already balanced/aligned. I could probably use new air struts and/or check the wheels (I will do the latter but as long as dealer says everything is tight and fine, I am not going to throw $5000-$10000 struts for a non-commuter car that is perfect under 60mph and 97% fine for the occasional 50 mile drive that just has a bit more steering wheel feeling of vibration in it when cold than I'd want.) This is a great car but not used 100 miles a day. But I highly recommend driving the car at full highway speed to test the ride quality and steering feel.

In summary: check everything works now, expect some possible expenses, and really check out the ride, air suspension, any adaptive cruise, and height switch and door locks and rear A/C line. Rear seat too I guess (adjustable). Those are possible. In my case, the cruise was bad in past and 1 height sensor and 1 bad strut (the mount was damaged).

I got my UL specifically for the adaptive cruise. At this age I'd recommend against a UL due to the suspension and door locks, but mine have been OK so far.

 

hi from Charleston

 

Thanks for the reply and your input.! Much appreciated!

 

My 05 UL has 194k miles, owned since 2009.

-Replaced front blower 2009 CPO warranty, original failed in 116F in AZ
Alternator failed at 85k miles (2015), unusual for Toyota. Purchase 3 yrs extra warranty on top of CPO warranty from dealer, but Lexus said it wasn’t covered
​​​​​​-2 sonar bumper sensors up front failed 2010, under CPO warranty
-Radar cruise control ECU replaced, had a bug. First year it was introduced. If you leave it on for more than like 200 miles, it throws an error. Replaced under CPO warranty 2010
-Air shocks (one in front, one back) started leaking at 130k mi (about 12 yrs). Replaced with OEM coil suspension, disconnected compressor and pulled fuse
-Height sensors failed after moving to East Coast (constant rain), pulled height and AFS fuses
-Replaced lower ball joints at 130k mi (wear and tear)
-Fixed ECU board due to harsh transmission downshifting 2024 (common problem)
the rest is just preventative maintenance…timing belt, water pump, pulleys, tensioner, radiator hoses, spark plugs, PCV valve at 90k intervals

 

Interesting, as I am still on original suspension, never done ball joints or control arms yet... "Replaced with OEM coil suspension"... that sounds ideal if I need to. Did you do it yourself? I'm not sure if most mechanics would know al the parts needed (vs a coilover that's all-in-one). Don't really want to go to a dealer, and I am not a DYI'er. Also, re your headlights still curve-adaptive (adaptive/AFS) after you pulled fuses? I don't want to lose that... thanks.

 

My previous commute for 10 yrs was 50 mi/day over a 2000 ft mountain pass on the interstate at 80 mph. The seams from the asphalt interstate over concrete overpasses wore down the ball joints such that the steering column would jolt when hitting the overpass. Fluid was leaking out of the lower ball joints and one air shock up front and one in the rear. It was about $3.5k with parts online with CL discount and about $2k labor back in 2018…would cost nearly double that today. I’m guessing $1k/yr in maintenance+repair costs at the dealer over the last 12 yrs of a total of 16 yrs of ownership while I drove 165k miles, which is longer than most new cars will last! Car still runs smoothly and quiet, no creaks/rattles/squeals. Outstanding build quality.