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I kinda liked my sequence of removal (tie rod, end link, LCA, LBJ) but I think I'll make sure to loosen the UBJ first on the other side. Also I had a hell of a time removing the LBJ from the LCA with a pickle fork, wailing on it with a 3 lb hammer to no avail. Then I realized I don't need to separate them because I'm replacing both parts. I ended up doing it with a pitman arm puller anyway, cause I wanted to get the experience.
Good thing you corrected the offset at bottom of the strut. When it all goes back together be sure to lightly tighten all bushing bolts, then load and settle the suspension(I use ramps under the tires), slightly loosen bolts then torque to final spec.
Alright so I gots another problem: I can't torque the nut that connects the end link to the LCA. Trying to further tighten the nut just results in turning of the whole shaft in the ball joint of the end link. WUTTODO?
Alright so I gots another problem: I can't torque the nut that connects the end link to the LCA. Trying to further tighten the nut just results in turning of the whole shaft in the ball joint of the end link. WUTTODO?
I believe there’s an insert for an Allen key near that nut (at the end of the shaft) to hold the shaft in the ball joint while you tighten it. I guess you could also use a c clamp. I didn’t have issues just using a wrench or a socket to tighten the nut before using a torque wrench
I believe there’s an insert for an Allen key near that nut (at the end of the shaft) to hold the shaft in the ball joint while you tighten it. I guess you could also use a c clamp. I didn’t have issues just using a wrench or a socket to tighten the nut before using a torque wrench
Alright, will look for it.
Since the car will need an alignment after replacing all these parts, should I even bother torquing things down correction? Isn't the alignment place going to screw up all my torque values anyway? And I'll have to retorque at home?
Since the car will need an alignment after replacing all these parts, should I even bother torquing things down correction? Isn't the alignment place going to screw up all my torque values anyway? And I'll have to retorque at home?
It would be a good idea to torque things down to proper spec whenever possible. If the alignment place can’t do a proper job, I would not use them. I used a local shop for my alignment and they test drive multiple times, make adjustments, and everything was fine afterwards
It would be a good idea to torque things down to proper spec whenever possible. If the alignment place can’t do a proper job, I would not use them. I used a local shop for my alignment and they test drive multiple times, make adjustments, and everything was fine afterwards
I haven't used any particular alignment shop just yet, so I don't know, but it seems like in general shops fail to use proper torque values. I guess I could question them to see whether they are going to torque things correct and provide them with a sheet with the proper values?
I haven't used any particular alignment shop just yet, so I don't know, but it seems like in general shops fail to use proper torque values. I guess I could question them to see whether they are going to torque things correct and provide them with a sheet with the proper values?
That would be a good idea, I generally would not recommend a national chain shop as they’re more focused on profits
Well I replaced everything, including the three knurled steering column bolts.
Took it for an alignment at a new place where they seemed pretty competent, old guy at the counter.
First day I had it back the steering felt very good, front end very tight, it really had gotten sloppy. But I was pretty upset that the noise hadn't gotten any better, and the road noise was the main reason I did all this. They had inflated all four tires to the right pressure, 32 psi.
But it seems like the noise got better in the next two days, and now it's a lot closer to where it was before the front end went downhill. I suspect the remainder of it is the cold weather and semi-worn tires (even wear though, and 6-7 tread remaining).
The suspension is still a bit firmer than it used to be, and I wonder if that's the KYB Excel-Gs vs the stock struts. I almost feel like replacing them but I'll give the current set up more time.
The steering also has less play with the new bolts, although there's still a bit of play that seems nearer to the steering wheel than the rack - not sure what it could be.
Last edited by usedname; Nov 10, 2023 at 09:18 AM.
Do you mind posting the alignment sheet? I am curious what your camber readings are.
I didn't get anything like that. If anything I suspect they did it without computers? Not sure if they still do that these days, I remember asking a mechanic I went to some time ago saying that unfortunately everyone just uses the machines now - implying that that was a worse way to go about it.
Are you asking about camber because it would have something to do with noise? I can take pictures of the camber adjustment bolts/cams...
Well, everything in the front suspension is replaced except the struts (which were replaced 1.5 years ago w KYB Excel Gs) and the ride is still harsh and there is still a decent amount of road noise. Even if the road noise is just tires, that leaves the harshness. Even though people suggest there's not much difference between the Excel Gs and OEM, the struts are the only thing left TO replace.
If that doesn't fix things... then I'll pour some gasoline on the car and set it on fire.
