The coil on drivers side is usually known to go bad first on these (personal experience) cuz where it's located it gets all the heat from the engine and exhaust. Pretty hard to test it cuz it's tucked down in there really tight. So when mine was bad, after removing and testing it, I just switched it with the other coil cuz I knew that one was good. Then I got a code for the other coil. (which was the bad one I switched)

As for the AFM (codes 24 & 31) Do not buy an aftermarket one. You're better off buying a used one from the junkyard so you can test it before ya buy it. The test specs are here somewhere on the forum but I can't seem to locate it now. And do NOT use any cleaner on the AFM. By unplugging it that puts the ECU into limp mode and just dumps raw fuel into the cylinders, that's why ya had alot more power when ya unplugged it. I had mine unplugged for a while on my old 93. (A long while) All that does is ruin more stuff. I only had a code 31 for the AFM until unplugged, then I got the code for the O2 sensors so your O2 might not be bad. Also, your ECU might not be bad yet cuz you're getting the codes and when you unplugged the AFM it went to limp mode. Should still be rebuilt soon though.

 

Thanks, I ordered an ignition coil, looking into used MAF/AFM sensors on eBay that seem reasonable and have a warranty. I feel like the ECU might be ok but sent it off to SIA just in case since I don't need the car for a couple weeks and it probably should be done anyways.

 

Good idea with the ECU sending it out anyway. Something I should have done a couple months ago seeing how my car has been off the road. But I'm a procrastinator, I'll wait til the last minute.
I would have tested the coil before ordering a new one just incase that's not the problem. Just cuz a code comes up does not mean that the coil is bad. But, I hope it fixes it for you, ya don't want to just keep throwing parts at it. Gets pretty expensive that way.

 

Update: I had the capacitors replaced and the ECU checked out by SIA. Also installed a used MAF sensor from ebay. Tested it out and was still stalling! Still had codes 15 and 21 but not 24 and 31. So I think the MAF is ok.

Finally had some good weather and replaced the driver's side ignition coil. Quick test and seems ok, also seems to be idling higher but will need to test more. Finger's crossed.

I was going to replace the o2 sensor but the old one wouldn't budge.

 

Alrighty, after doing all this stuff: cleaning throttle body, replacing MAF sensor, main left o2 sensor, ignition coil 2, and ECU caps, i'm fairly certain that the ignition coil was causing the stalling.

Now time to deal with leaky sunroof and droopy seatbelts.

 

Well I spoke too soon! It was driving fine for about a week, then today stalled again, in the exact same spot I stalled once before, 1.3 miles from my house.

In the past when it stalls, I can start it up again and sometimes make it home, at least a few blocks - but today it just won't start at all.

Getting code 15 again for Ignition Coil #2, the one I replaced. Could some other component be causing these to fail? Or maybe I just got a bad one?

 

Coil #2 is on the right side (passenger) If you changed the drivers side then you changed #1 coil. Do you still have the old coil you pulled off? If so you should throw that one on the passenger side. (after testing it of course)
Maybe you missed understood me cuz I was saying I had a bad drivers side coil. If that's the case, sorry. I was just saying the drivers side "usually" go bad first.

The reason I said earlier "I would have tested the coil before ordering a new one just incase that's not the problem." is because code 15 is for the "ignition #2 signal" which can also mean the igniter is bad, or wiring between that and the ECU. That's why things need to be diagnosed and tested before just throwing parts at it.

 

doh! i'm not sure why i got it in my mind that the driver's side one was #2. certainly much harder to get to. oh well, at least the other one is easily accessible. and i have another one. i'll make sure to test the one i remove this time! i wonder why it wasn't stalling this past week.

 

electronic gremlins tend to pop up with a change in ambient weather like temp and humidity, esp on older cars like ours!

 

the stalling problem did start on one of the first warm and rainy days this year

i replaced the other ignition coil. seems to be working for now but i won't be surprised if it starts stalling again. can i test the old ignition coil with a multimeter?

i also changed the coolant temp sensor but didn't notice any change. the car has always had power, until it stalls of course. i don't have any history on the timing belt/water pump, so i should probably do that, though not something i can do myself and of course quite expensive.

 

hmm, negative battery connection is loose and can't be fully tightened. wonder if that's causing some of my woes

 

I’ve replaced all electrical components and ecu fuel pump and fuses. After warm it shuts off and won’t start till a while after. It’ll crank and spark but won’t fire up. Will with starting fluid but very badly.