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1999 LS 255k miles, in the process of changing strut rods, pulled out OEM struts that have 57k mi on them.
Comparing them to Excel-G , OEM are about 1”+ shorter.
When I compress the shaft all the way inside they are same length. OEM takes 45sec to fully come out and Excel-G about 1min35sec and feel firmer.
The question is
Shall I keep the oem w/57k miles or install new Excel-G?
Billy,
so, as long as that shaft comes out pretty fast, the strut is good, right?
I have changed the struts twice already, but never the mounts, so, installing new mounts and am tempted to keep the old OEM struts.
Ok, keeping the old OEM struts, they should last 100k miles or even longer, as some members reported.
Putting aftermarket KYB strut mounts, look identical to OEM, just a bit taller - check the picture
I don't know if it was necessary, but I got new OEM bumpers that get inserted into the mounts. They come into play only when you bottom out the struts, right?
Last edited by valex; Oct 21, 2018 at 08:39 PM.
Reason: adding
My OEM Struts at 275k still had some charge in them, they didn't come out nearly as fast as yours but made some effort to press the shaft outward. The reason why I went with the Excel Gs is I got them for $75 a piece at Autozone with a lifetime warranty. OEMs were $220 a piece, so I guess you have to pay to play.
The ride with my Excel G's isn't choppy or compromised at all. But I only know what my car felt like with 275k OEM struts with a torn inner LCA bushing and torn upper strut mounts so I can't compare apples to apples. I obviously replaced all those worn out components upon installing those Excel G's, which is part of the reason for me to budget for those instead.
since you have the OEM shocks out you might as well replace them with the new set, regardless if it's only 57k on them.
mileage is only one factor in its deterioration. age is another!
length of shaft at that difference really doesn't matter too much, though you might have problems reinstalling.
make sure you didn't reverse the front to rear models!
That's pretty good that they still seem to be working well. Mine were dead by 70K so depends on the roads too. I pushed the piston in on one and the next day it was still in the same spot. The others may have moved minimally an inch or so. LOL. No wheel bounce or odd tire wear as indicators either. As they say, YMMV.
Ok, keeping the old OEM struts, they should last 100k miles or even longer, as some members reported.
Putting aftermarket KYB strut mounts, look identical to OEM, just a bit taller - check the picture
I don't know if it was necessary, but I got new OEM bumpers that get inserted into the mounts. They come into play only when you bottom out the struts, right?
Look at the lower mounts [of the KYB struts]. I've been there, done that and got the T-shirt. Never again!
Please let me explain. When the road spring compresses/expands, there will be a torsional force on that lower mount. And, if the outer loop of the mount is narrower, by definition the bush must be much less substantial and simply will not last.
You will also find that unless the shop uses the correct SST which prevents the spring twisting under compression, there will be a permanent twist on that bush at normal ride height. (I wrote a procedure for lexls on how to retrospectively correct this twist; it was a pretty hair-raising job involving the use of spring compressors and two jacks. It did work, but Carl didn't put it up, presumably on safety grounds. Can't say I blame him!)
OEM all the way!
Last edited by VolumeToo; Oct 27, 2018 at 10:07 AM.
Reason: clarity
If you look again, you will see that the fake ones are anything but identical. Look at the lower mounts! I've been there, done that and got the T-shirt. KYB: Never again!
Clearly this needs explaining. When the road spring compresses/expands, there will be a torsional force on that lower mount. And, if the outer loop of the mount is narrower, by definition the bush must be much less substantial and simply will not last.
You will also find that unless the shop uses the correct SST which prevents the spring twisting under compression, there will be a permanent twist on that bush at normal ride height. (I wrote a procedure for lexls on how to retrospectively correct this twist; it was a pretty hair-raising job involving the use of spring compressors and two jacks. It did work, but Carl didn't put it up, presumably on safety grounds. Can't say I blame him!)
OEM all the way.
You are talking about the struts, right? I was confused since there are strut mounts in the picture.
You are talking about the struts, right? I was confused since there are strut mounts in the picture.
I'm talking about the lower mounting eye of the strut, where the bolt goes through. Nothing to do with the upper strut mounts - sorry - my bad! (I've corrected my previous posting #10 to this effect.)
Last edited by VolumeToo; Oct 27, 2018 at 10:04 AM.
Reason: clarity
Look at the lower mounts [of the KYB struts]. I've been there, done that and got the T-shirt. Never again!
Please let me explain. When the road spring compresses/expands, there will be a torsional force on that lower mount. And, if the outer loop of the mount is narrower, by definition the bush must be much less substantial and simply will not last.
You will also find that unless the shop uses the correct SST which prevents the spring twisting under compression, there will be a permanent twist on that bush at normal ride height. (I wrote a procedure for lexls on how to retrospectively correct this twist; it was a pretty hair-raising job involving the use of spring compressors and two jacks. It did work, but Carl didn't put it up, presumably on safety grounds. Can't say I blame him!)
OEM all the way!
I admit, you got me confused. Why would the spring twist under compression? Obviously, I am missing something, as I look at it simply as - push on the spring, it compresses, let it go, it expands, end of story.
What am I missing?
And - why not post that write-up here? Maybe include a bit of a warning "kids don't try this at home..." or "not for faint at heart".
I admit, you got me confused. Why would the spring twist under compression? Obviously, I am missing something, as I look at it simply as - push on the spring, it compresses, let it go, it expands, end of story.
What am I missing?
And - why not post that write-up here? Maybe include a bit of a warning "kids don't try this at home..." or "not for faint at heart".
When you compress a coil spring, its diameter will naturally increase, which means that one end has to turn WRT the other (as it unwinds, if you like). The reverse happens on stretching (obviously). If you prevent both ends from turning, then on compression the spring will bow in a spiral sort-of-way. But given that in this case the lower end is free to turn, then that turning force is exerted on the lower strut mounts. So as the suspension moves up and down, the lower loop of the damper is twisting one way and then the other. The objective is to make sure that it is not under any static turning force at rest, i.e. normal ride height.
Hopefully somebody will be able to articulate this better than I can! In the meantime I'll try and dig out that write-up...
Last edited by VolumeToo; Oct 28, 2018 at 01:21 PM.
1999 LS400 front struts question
