00lexus1u

dicer

Breaks are what you take at work for a rest period. BRAKES are what stops the car. Sorry its a me thing.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

Drilled/slotted rotors are going to be louder than plain rotors every time. The rest depends on how you broke them in and which pads you're using.

00lexus1u

RA40

iTrader: (6)

+1 with PD. Did you use copper anti-seize?

Losiracer2

Go OEM with the brake pads. They use a rubberized multilayered metal shim that cancels out the high pitched frequencies of the pads when they come into contact with the rotor. You can also try putting disc brake quiet on the backs of the pads, its this red tacky stuff that dries to a flexible rubber/silicone that also helps dampen noise.

Or you can try installing Wagner Thermoquiets. I've got those on my LS and they're quiet all the time, even in salt and slush of the winter time.

Copper antiseize on the pad abutment ears helps minimize the friction too for the rears.

nthach

I wouldn't use ThermoQuiets on these cars unless the pad fits without too much play - on a UCF20 2LS it might not matter since they used a fixed-4 pot caliper, but on the UCF10 cars they use a sliding caliper that doesn't play too nice with ThermoQuiets.

Copper anti-seize does work as a pad lubricant, I think a silicone-based moly/ceramic lubricant(Molykote M77/Permatex High-Temp Silicone Brake Lube with the red label) works better for the pad backing plates and shims, and it won't harm the caliper piston boots like a "synthetic" brake lube or disc brake quiet can.

No need for slotted or drilled rotors on a street-driven car, they can only create more problems. And less swept area===less braking surface===more of a risk of warped or cracked rotors.

timmy0tool

iTrader: (7)

it's a correct thing! haha

to the OP, hopefully you did the right bed/break in procedure on the new brakes.