1uzfe Toyota swap, running rich
10-07-17, 11:23 PM
#1
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1uzfe Toyota swap, running rich
Good day all,
I am a member of a couple forums but just recently joined here looking for some help. Long story short, I transplanted the 1uzfe in to my 1992 Toyota pickup (still in progress). The mechanical portion of the swap was a breeze, now the electrical is kicking me in the ****.
If somebody could bear with me, I have been beating my head against the wall chasing wires and running countless test. So here is the deal: I Am running a 1995/96 ecu, 34 pin 22 pin 16 pin 28 pin. I used Nigel Wades book on how to wire up a 1uzfe. It is a front sump engine, with a manual transmission behind it. I am using a 1992 afm.
The engine fires up and runs, but The old iac valve was bad, I bought a used one and installed it, but the truck still wouldn’t low idle, so I pulled the pins on the ecu and manually lowered the idle by grounding out the pins in order. No matter what rpm, the engine runs super rich, as you can see the black unburnt fuel out the exhaust and the eye watering sting of fumes. Engine has backfired a couple times as well, at any rpm you can hear the engine stumbling slightly, but is driveable.
I am getting codes 27, 28, 29, 31, 56, and 78? The last two are fuel pump ecu and something else unrelated. 27 and 29 are the signals of the rear o2 sensors, which I do not have installed. 28 is the right o2 sensor. Both o2 sensors are installed. I tried swapping the pins on the o2 sensors to see if the codes would swap, and the truck would not run that way. The right o2 sensor heater I do not believe is working. When I checked the ohms across htr and b I did not get anything, same test on the left o2 I got 12 ohms.
I tried faking the rear o2 sensors by jumping the signals from the signals of the front o2s to the pins for the rears. Nothing changed. No matter what I do, the codes for the o2 sensors do not change. I did unplug the left o2 and I got code 24 for that though.
code 31 I believe is for the temperature for the afm. I bought the afm through a junkyard. When I ohm tested between e2 and tha it tested ok, but I have read that is not always accurate.
it is my understanding these engines are quite picky. If one small thing is out of place, it will throw codes that are not even related to the problem. The iac works when I do it manually, but not when I hook it back up to the ecu. The afm wiring was tricky, but I think I got it. I have verified the o2 wiring on both sides is correct until I was blue in the face. I know this is a difficult thing to ask, but where would one of you fine people start looking/troubleshooting? I need a fresh perspective. I will be happy to clarify anything about the swap!
Thank you in advance!
I am a member of a couple forums but just recently joined here looking for some help. Long story short, I transplanted the 1uzfe in to my 1992 Toyota pickup (still in progress). The mechanical portion of the swap was a breeze, now the electrical is kicking me in the ****.
If somebody could bear with me, I have been beating my head against the wall chasing wires and running countless test. So here is the deal: I Am running a 1995/96 ecu, 34 pin 22 pin 16 pin 28 pin. I used Nigel Wades book on how to wire up a 1uzfe. It is a front sump engine, with a manual transmission behind it. I am using a 1992 afm.
The engine fires up and runs, but The old iac valve was bad, I bought a used one and installed it, but the truck still wouldn’t low idle, so I pulled the pins on the ecu and manually lowered the idle by grounding out the pins in order. No matter what rpm, the engine runs super rich, as you can see the black unburnt fuel out the exhaust and the eye watering sting of fumes. Engine has backfired a couple times as well, at any rpm you can hear the engine stumbling slightly, but is driveable.
I am getting codes 27, 28, 29, 31, 56, and 78? The last two are fuel pump ecu and something else unrelated. 27 and 29 are the signals of the rear o2 sensors, which I do not have installed. 28 is the right o2 sensor. Both o2 sensors are installed. I tried swapping the pins on the o2 sensors to see if the codes would swap, and the truck would not run that way. The right o2 sensor heater I do not believe is working. When I checked the ohms across htr and b I did not get anything, same test on the left o2 I got 12 ohms.
I tried faking the rear o2 sensors by jumping the signals from the signals of the front o2s to the pins for the rears. Nothing changed. No matter what I do, the codes for the o2 sensors do not change. I did unplug the left o2 and I got code 24 for that though.
code 31 I believe is for the temperature for the afm. I bought the afm through a junkyard. When I ohm tested between e2 and tha it tested ok, but I have read that is not always accurate.
it is my understanding these engines are quite picky. If one small thing is out of place, it will throw codes that are not even related to the problem. The iac works when I do it manually, but not when I hook it back up to the ecu. The afm wiring was tricky, but I think I got it. I have verified the o2 wiring on both sides is correct until I was blue in the face. I know this is a difficult thing to ask, but where would one of you fine people start looking/troubleshooting? I need a fresh perspective. I will be happy to clarify anything about the swap!
Thank you in advance!
10-08-17, 04:17 AM
#2
AH WHAT A PITA !!
Ok so you may not get away with bypassing the secondary o2 sensors, and not having these could make it run rich. The afm on these things are very delicate, and even if it has signal and the correct resistance, this does not always mean it will be working. Its certainly a fuel/air issue.
Ok so you may not get away with bypassing the secondary o2 sensors, and not having these could make it run rich. The afm on these things are very delicate, and even if it has signal and the correct resistance, this does not always mean it will be working. Its certainly a fuel/air issue.
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