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Yes, the crank balancer and timing belt sprocket are both keyed to the crank via the same long key.
You really can't time these engines 180 out. The only mechanical connection between the cams and crank is the belt. The closest you can come to timing it 180 out is not taking note of the pin and slot on the rotor caps and just throwing them on there. Some people do that accidentally. Take note that the rotors install one way and one way only. You can't time the engine 180 out because it had crank AND can sensors that know where each shaft is positioned at any given time. Use the marks on the belt corresponding to the marks on the sprockets to install the belt. Then, once the tensioner is installed, turn the engine over twice and THEN verify the balancer at zero and the cam sprocket marks to the marks on the black metal plates behind the cam sprockets.
There is lots of different info on where the 1UZ became interference. The most common I've seen is that the VVTi engines from 98-00 are interference and the rest are not. I still don't trust it. I have a bad 1UZ from a '96 in the garage. When I tear it down to do the autopsy I may take the time to actually try to get the valves to interfere and post the results on this board. There is no point in determining TDC on the engine. The rotors are not adjustable and all timing is computer controlled. There is also no reason to turn the crank over without the cams. Just line up the marks on the belt to the marks on the sprockets.
If your crank sprocket looks like this, as it should, you are just a bit off on the cam sprocket. Loosen the belt and rotate the cam slightly until the belt mark falls where it should. It rarely goes on perfectly the first time and you are already very close.
When I was replacing the timing belt on my 1995, I was initially confused about the mark on the cam sprockets and tried to turn the engine over by hand with one of them about 60 degrees out. I felt metal-on-metal contact and stopped. It's definitely an interference engine.
When I was replacing the timing belt on my 1995, I was initially confused about the mark on the cam sprockets and tried to turn the engine over by hand with one of them about 60 degrees out. I felt metal-on-metal contact and stopped. It's definitely an interference engine.
Good to know. That's one of the only first hand testimonials regarding this on a UCF20. Good deal.
Thanks banshee (and all the others) I have printed out your 2 responses and put them in my workshop manual.. I'm out of town for the next month so I'll be doing my timing belt and starter motor when I get back.. Its been good reading all the chat about timing marks and install stuff. Without forums like this I probably would never attempt it. I may be a glutton for punishment but I'm gunna do both the timing belt and starter motor at the same time. Ive got a motor bike so doesn't matter if its off the road for a bit... I'm guessing both will take me 3 days. (maybe 4)... Gulp !!
Good to know. That's one of the only first hand testimonials regarding this on a UCF20. Good deal.
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Hey Banshee365... I read you tutorial on timing belt replacement.. Your a legend for going to to all that trouble.. Um, after you remove the timing belt pulley and show the seal, you didn't say how to remove the seal. A seal came in my kit so I'd like to replace it. Any suggestions on hot to remove the old seal ?
Drill a very small hole into the middle of one side of the seal. Be sure not to touch the outer mating surface or especially the crank. Then run a small screw into the hole, a pointy one like a drywall screw or any other pointy screw. Then just grab the screw with pliers and work the seal out. Then I just went up your local home improvement store with the new or old seal and find a PVC coupler that nearly matches the diameter of the seal. Install the seal by hitting that coupler with a rubber mallet or something. One tip I have is to move the PVC coupler around in different off-center positions. Placing the coupler off-center allows part of it to overhang over the edge of the seal. This will help prevent from driving the seal too deep. It needs to be flush with the outer mating surface. Take it slow and just don't drive it too deep (herr herr.) It's a good idea to wrap a paper towel or shop rag around a flathead screw driver and spray some brake clean on it and use it to clean the crank sealing surface. Be sure not to allow the actual screwdriver tip to ever touch metal though.
Drill a very small home into the middle of one side of the seal. Be sure not to touch the outer mating surface or especially the crank. Then run a small screw into the hole, a pointy one like a drywall screw or any other pointy screw. Then just grab the screw with pliers and work the seal out. Then I just went up your local home improvement store with the new or old seal and find a PVC coupler that nearly matches the diameter of the seal. Install the seal by hitting that coupler with a rubber mallet or something. One tip I have is to move the PVC coupler around in different off-center positions. Placing the coupler off-center allows part of it to overhang over the edge of the seal. This will help prevent from driving the seal too deep. It needs to be flush with the outer mating surface. Take it slow and just don't drive it too deep (herr herr.) It's a good idea to wrap a paper towel or shop rag around a flathead screw driver and spray some brake clean on it and use it to clean the crank sealing surface. Be sure not to allow the actual screwdriver tip to ever touch metal though.
Banshee365 - you're the real MVP. I re-visited your guide and took one of the idlers off when I was setting the belt. So much easier. Wow.
It laid down perfectly, all the marks lined up. I found the small dot on the crank gear and marked it with bright orange paint pen so I could see it. Put it all down, put the tensioner on, put the lower cover and balancer on, spun it over and it was perfect. Torqued the nut to 190 lbs, ate two muscle relaxers and am calling it a night.
I'm excited. The car will be finished this week. I wish I could still wrench for 10-12 hours a day, but no longer.
Thank you for your guide, and your insight. This Chevy V8 troglodyte is learning!
Almost done. Whole engine is back together. Timing marks double, triple, quadruple checked. Everything went together pretty smoothly. Routing the spark plug wires is quite the pain in the rear compared to what I'm used to, but I got it all squared away.
Only things left to do now are put the air intake back on, fill it with coolant, put the alternator back on (and solder the new pigtail on, for that matter), connect the battery, turn the key, and pray.
Hopefully I'll have time for all that tomorrow after work.
I put the battery in. I checked the distributor rotors again and they were on there correctly. I pushed all the plug wires on again and double checked the firing order. The car started with the new battery and idled. Any time I give it gas, it chugs and dies.
04-24-17, 02:44 PM
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