DIY: spark plug change - LS400 2000
04-18-14, 12:22 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
DIY: spark plug change - LS400 2000
Hey there
I am a new fresh member to this forum and i hope u accept me as a fellow active one
my car needed a new plugs so i thought i replace the OEM platinum plugs for some denso iridium - SK20R11
in the 1998-2000 LSs all u need to do is disassemble the air intake to reach the coils and plugs !
the tools needed :-
wrench with 10mm socket and 16mm for the plugs and it is recommended if u use torque wrench for tightening !
first take off the intake , no need to take it off completely just lift it up and use it as a shelf
after i removed the plugs i found them all rusty and dirty so i sprayed some electronic cleaner to a new one and i install it and remove it twice to clean the head thread
in the end tight the plugs by hand and torque them to 15ft/ib
important note : DON'T CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS WHILE THE CAR IS HOT OR U WILL DAMAGE THE HEADS !!
I am a new fresh member to this forum and i hope u accept me as a fellow active one
my car needed a new plugs so i thought i replace the OEM platinum plugs for some denso iridium - SK20R11
in the 1998-2000 LSs all u need to do is disassemble the air intake to reach the coils and plugs !
the tools needed :-
wrench with 10mm socket and 16mm for the plugs and it is recommended if u use torque wrench for tightening !
first take off the intake , no need to take it off completely just lift it up and use it as a shelf
after i removed the plugs i found them all rusty and dirty so i sprayed some electronic cleaner to a new one and i install it and remove it twice to clean the head thread
in the end tight the plugs by hand and torque them to 15ft/ib
important note : DON'T CHANGE THE SPARK PLUGS WHILE THE CAR IS HOT OR U WILL DAMAGE THE HEADS !!
Last edited by yazeed132; 04-18-14 at 04:06 PM.
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Organik1 (02-11-24)
04-18-14, 05:15 PM
#7
actually i prefer to change the plugs when the head is warm, not really hot hot but warm since the metal does expand and contract with temperature. i find it makes it easier to remove the plugs with a warm engine. that's just me!
and i use a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs when reinstalling just to make the next change that much easier. good work!
and i use a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs when reinstalling just to make the next change that much easier. good work!
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04-27-14, 01:21 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
04-27-14, 01:28 PM
#9
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
actually i prefer to change the plugs when the head is warm, not really hot hot but warm since the metal does expand and contract with temperature. i find it makes it easier to remove the plugs with a warm engine. that's just me!
and i use a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs when reinstalling just to make the next change that much easier. good work!
and i use a dab of anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs when reinstalling just to make the next change that much easier. good work!
07-05-18, 01:32 PM
#10
Driver School Candidate
Im changing the spark plug wire set along with the spark plugs, is there anything else i need to remove to gain access to the wires? Im new to auto repair so im just trying to get as much info to prepare myself before getting into it, i got a 98 btw
07-05-18, 01:41 PM
#11
Moderator
98's don't have traditional spark plug wires. Each plug has it's own coil mounted directly to it. The coils don't need to be replaced until they fail and you don't have to replace all of them if just one goes out.
Google this part #- 9091902228
Google this part #- 9091902228
07-05-18, 01:45 PM
#12
Driver School Candidate
wow ok great, thanks for the guidence, just to make sure i would be safe just replacing the spark plugs then right? And how would i be able to tell if the coils go out?
07-05-18, 01:53 PM
#13
Moderator
Odds of more than 1 going out at once is very slim. Usually the oil seals in the valve cover will become brittle allowing oil to reach the coil causing it to fail.
When a coil fails the car is running on 7 cylinders. It still runs but not well and it will throw a code which actually tells you which cylinder number has failed.
When a coil fails the car is running on 7 cylinders. It still runs but not well and it will throw a code which actually tells you which cylinder number has failed.
07-05-18, 01:55 PM
#14
Driver School Candidate
Odds of more than 1 going out at once is very slim. Usually the oil seals in the valve cover will become brittle allowing oil to reach the coil causing it to fail.
When a coil fails the car is running on 7 cylinders. It still runs but not well and it will throw a code which actually tells you which cylinder number has failed.
When a coil fails the car is running on 7 cylinders. It still runs but not well and it will throw a code which actually tells you which cylinder number has failed.
07-09-18, 04:34 PM
#15
Remove the intake? You mean remove the air intake duct right? Also, use spark plug anti-sieze on the threads, and don't bother with the "remove the rust" tip by OP you are just asking for a stripped thread. Keep a piece of 3/8 hose available to snag any plugs that won't come out of the deep holes after they have been fully unthreaded. Also, use boot grease on the coil boots and inspect all the wiring to the coil. Age is going to affect the wiring and the coil. Oh, disconnect the battery first, or risk confusing your computer.
Last edited by Michael88; 07-09-18 at 04:36 PM. Reason: edit