2000 LS400 Trailer hitch questions
Love those trailer pics! that dual axle is pretty beefy!
24lbs is nothing on a car thats heavy like this anyways, the versatility you'll get from a hitch is worth it.
It didn't look too pretty on my STi and was a bit of weight, but you won't notice 99.9% of the time anyways but you sure will notice being able to tow a trailer!
24lbs is nothing on a car thats heavy like this anyways, the versatility you'll get from a hitch is worth it.
It didn't look too pretty on my STi and was a bit of weight, but you won't notice 99.9% of the time anyways but you sure will notice being able to tow a trailer!
Good on yah! you won't regret it! I flat towed a 3100lb Supra with the Celsior once as well, no problem, shes a strong car with a high rated tow, what you can do with a 5x8 utility trailer is pretty impressive compared to the non folding down rear seats in the LS, hee hee )
Good on yah! you won't regret it! I flat towed a 3100lb Supra with the Celsior once as well, no problem, shes a strong car with a high rated tow, what you can do with a 5x8 utility trailer is pretty impressive compared to the non folding down rear seats in the LS, hee hee )
I've been considering getting a 1LS to strip down and turn into a race car, but the 3400lb weight is kind of unnerving (granted I'd strip it down, but it's still a heavy car).
I had my mechanic run the power wire out of an ABS hole in the trunk underneath the car to the engine compartment fuse box where, on the left side of the fuse box, there is an "hot" terminal perfect for powering trailer lights and other accessories. I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable under the car but I can't see it and it has worked fine for over 10 years. Be sure to use on inline fuse where you connect the power cable to the terminal by the fuse box.
Jim wrote:
"I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable ..."
This is what I was wondering. Anyone else have an idea of a easy hot wire somewhere near the trunk where I can get 12volts?
You are right Jim, the hitch install is 20 minutes. The wiring will take hours depending on your skill level.
3 bolt on each muffler hanger remove. Install hitch under them. bolt with new longer bolts provided. Everything is all compact and tucked out of the way.


"I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable ..."
This is what I was wondering. Anyone else have an idea of a easy hot wire somewhere near the trunk where I can get 12volts?
You are right Jim, the hitch install is 20 minutes. The wiring will take hours depending on your skill level.
3 bolt on each muffler hanger remove. Install hitch under them. bolt with new longer bolts provided. Everything is all compact and tucked out of the way.


looks great. usually you tap your trailer lights off the rear brake lights then pass them through the trunk somehow.
i would use the ABS sensor wiring hole. follow your ABS sensor wiring as it goes into the trunk area, there is one on each side for each rear wheel. or you can always drill your own hole. don't forget to use a grommet.
i would use the ABS sensor wiring hole. follow your ABS sensor wiring as it goes into the trunk area, there is one on each side for each rear wheel. or you can always drill your own hole. don't forget to use a grommet.
Jim wrote:
"I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable ..."
This is what I was wondering. Anyone else have an idea of a easy hot wire somewhere near the trunk where I can get 12volts?
You are right Jim, the hitch install is 20 minutes. The wiring will take hours depending on your skill level.
3 bolt on each muffler hanger remove. Install hitch under them. bolt with new longer bolts provided. Everything is all compact and tucked out of the way.



"I don't know where exactly the mechanic routed the power cable ..."
This is what I was wondering. Anyone else have an idea of a easy hot wire somewhere near the trunk where I can get 12volts?
You are right Jim, the hitch install is 20 minutes. The wiring will take hours depending on your skill level.
3 bolt on each muffler hanger remove. Install hitch under them. bolt with new longer bolts provided. Everything is all compact and tucked out of the way.



looks great. usually you tap your trailer lights off the rear brake lights then pass them through the trunk somehow.
i would use the ABS sensor wiring hole. follow your ABS sensor wiring as it goes into the trunk area, there is one on each side for each rear wheel. or you can always drill your own hole. don't forget to use a grommet.
i would use the ABS sensor wiring hole. follow your ABS sensor wiring as it goes into the trunk area, there is one on each side for each rear wheel. or you can always drill your own hole. don't forget to use a grommet.
http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...FUJqfgodJIAA3g
Sure, it removes with pin and clip. Here are some of the available hitch parts
Sure, it removes with pin and clip. Here are some of the available hitch parts
Theis link describes why the converter is recomended. So as not to overload the factory wiring.
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-Routing-a-Power-Wire.aspx
So, any ideas for finding a heavy-ish hot terminal in the trunk area? I dont want to run a wire up to the battery. That will look mickey mouse and may get pinched or snagged.
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-Routing-a-Power-Wire.aspx
So, any ideas for finding a heavy-ish hot terminal in the trunk area? I dont want to run a wire up to the battery. That will look mickey mouse and may get pinched or snagged.











