YagerD

1992 Lexus ls400. I have had PS fluid loss over the past year but lately is getting worse. I've seen people replacing the valve, taking it out, plugging the hole etc. My question is, Why couldn't you just unhook the 2 vacuum lines and loop each side together? Is there something like a check valve that would make this not work? Heres an image for reference...



Thanks.

cobalt91

They usually replace oe remove it because it starts to leak on the alternator.

YagerD

I understand people removing it but usually it leaks through the vacuum line and goes into the engine where it is burned. So my question is why not just loop both sides? It's a lot easier than taking out the old one, finding what size and thread it is, buying a plug, and capping off the vacuum lines.

LScowboyLS

keep in mind that our PS systems are leaky from one end to the other when they get old, so if that doesn't do it, there are a multitude of other places in the PS system that could be leaking, and will also kill the alternator!

YagerD

As of right now the car doesn't leak a drop of anything. Just uses PS fluid (burns it). Just don't see why you couldn't loop those. I might just give it a shot here later this weekend and see.

YoshiMan

Are you talking about looping the two fittings of the valve together? Wouldn't effect anything, since there would be no vacuum present ,the internal valve would just open and shut with no side effect.

As far as it preventing leaks? Give it a shot, let us know. It could work. my vacuum fitting on the intake snapped off, so i just removed the lines and put rubber bypass caps on the valve fittings. No problems here so far.

YagerD

[QUOTE=YoshiMan;8250946]Are you talking about looping the two fittings of the valve together? Wouldn't effect anything, since there would be no vacuum present ,the internal valve would just open and shut with no side effect.

As far as it preventing leaks? Give it a shot, let us know. It could work. my vacuum fitting on the intake snapped off, so i just removed the lines and put rubber bypass caps on the valve fittings. No problems here so far.[/QUOTE

Yes exactly. I have no leaks besides the valve leaking into the vacuum line and then going into the intake manifold where it is burned. Don't see why it wouldn't work.

johnnyg66

Thats what they do when the bolt up the hole. If your going to leave yours in place and remove the hoses than you better plug up the tubes coming out of the valve. Than it can leak onto alternator and kill it over time.

YagerD

I understand that. What I'm saying is whats the point of removing the valve and fabbing something up to plug it? Why not just loop the vacuum lines and call it a day??

johnnyg66

I see nothing wrong with it my self. Just for me i want it all to be as original as it should be. Your choice.


Fyi i replaced mine after the leak started.

fixmiester

Just to make sure you understand what's happening: the IAC valve IS the source of the PS fluid leak; routing your hoses around it will NOT keep the valve from leaking, and dripping onto your alternator. You will still have to come up with a way to plug up the two nipples coming out of the IAC valve. Thus the recommendation to use something that will permanently block ATF from leaking through. Some RTV products soften in that application, so many folks just remove the entire valve, and plug the hole. Others do what I believe you are saying, and loop the two nipples together, with a short piece of tubing. However, IF the IAC valve body is leaking at the seam area, this will not work; it must be plugged.

YagerD

The valve is not leaking externally.

dengman

on my 99 I used a drain bolt. Had the right thread pitch. ;-) not saying its the same for all years.

sayow

I just fixed my PS leak this past weekend. $3 drain plug (14mm x1.5) and some teflon tape. Super easy with an angled 17mm wrench. So far so good.

rocky5

iTrader: (2)

Did you plugged the valve entirely?