DK Audio

I am going to do the front brakes on my 98 LS400 with 145,000 miles. I was going to replace the shims but every auto store I go to doesn't have them and can't order them. Anyone know where I can get these besides the dealer?

Also, should I replace the springs and that metal "X" piece?

deanshark

Usually I would say check rockauto.com but it seems like they only have shims for the rear for your year, that's weird.
I did find this on ebay. Not sure if that's good for pricewise though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-LS400-...-/390286165206

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

Centric sells it as a hardware kit iirc.

Unless yours are corroded, no real reason to replace. Clean yours up with a scotchbrite pad and lubricate/replace.

DK Audio

Ok, maybe I'll try that first, thanks.

LScowboyLS

and the only shims I would use, if you do decide to replace them, are the ones from the dealership

the sole purpose of the shims is to stop brake squeal, so if your brakes do not make noise, then your current shims are fine, even if they no longer "look new"

nthach

The better aftermarket brands include shims and the pad support ledges (I know Monroe, Bendix and Centric does) - even though they're just rubberized single shims and not the dual-shim system used as OEM - but they still work fine. Just butter up the pad backing plate and the outer surface of the inboard pad shim with some Molykote M77 or the equivalent.

usoff89

iTrader: (2)

I was going to say the same thing. I think most of the higher end pads come with shims. I just bought pads for mine and the new pads had shims on them already so I didn't use the old ones. I did re-use the spring and pins (didn't see a reason not to)

DK Audio

I did order high quality ones, I got Centric rotors and Axxis PBR pads. Is Molykote M77 the brake grease? I usually use those little packets at the checkout at Autozone, is that ok?

Also, do you need to use threadlocker on the 17mm or 14mm bolts on the caliper? What about the screws that hold the rotors to the hubs?

nthach

Molykote M77 is used by Honda and Nissan, Toyota uses something similar. The brake lube packets aren't even close. There's a seller on Ebay that sells little tubs it for less than Honda or a industrial supplier charges(but I would try your local Honda dealer, ask the parts department if they can steal a pack from the shop, they usually include a packet with their brake pads). For the slide pins, it's best to use Toyota's red rubber grease(p/n 08887-01206). But I've used Sil-Glyde with success. I've heard of 3M Silicone Lube and Dow Corning 111 being used as well. Just don't use Permatex/Bendix/Permatex brake lube, as Toyota slide pin bushing don't like it.

And no threadlock on the caliper bolts or disc screws, I like to use anti-seize on the disc screws.

DK Audio

Thanks, man, that stuff seems hard to get. Tons of threads online with people asking how to get it, a lot failing at Honda dealers. I wanted to tackle this tonight after work.

Sil-Glyde is the tiny packs that I have, would that be ok?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=193245_0_0_

When you say slid pins, are you referring to the brake pad "ears" that slide in the caliper channels?

The grease should go on the ears and both sides of shims right? I don't need it on the metal springs or metal cross ("X") right?

nthach

I forgot that the 2LS has fixed calipers with opposing pistons. While the Sil-Glyde is a fine lube, I would want something with moly like the Molykote on the backs of the pads and shims as well as the edges of the pad backing plates. I would say Sil-Glyde would be OK and smearing some on the piston boots wouldn't hurt. Even though I warned against using Permatex or CRC brake lube, I've also seen this and it's silicone based(not PAO/ester based like their regular brake lube) and I would think this is fine, YMMV - http://www.permatex.com/component/vi...formula-detail

So yes, lube the shims and pad backing plates.

LScowboyLS

you can get a 75g tube of M-77 for $13 from an authorized Honda dealer here as well as here

that is plenty to do all four wheels

the guy on ebay is $24 for the same tube, looks like a price gouge to me!

DK Audio

I did the passenger side after work yesterday. It was my first fixed caliper job. Man, getting those 17mm caliper bolts off was hard! I used a breaker bar and soaked them in PB Blaster and it was still an hour job. The rotor did not have the Philips screws in them, I knew this so I ordered a bunch a few months ago. I could only get the screws in a few turns and then the head would strip out, are those things made out of aluminum or something?! Incredibly frustrating, I had to drill them out again. Now I know why the last brake job they left them out, the holes must be corroded too much to thread them in. I tried multiple times with a manual screw driver, drill and an impact driver, after the 4th stripped head I said f it. I was going to re-tap the holes but I didn't have metric taps. I just left them off, makes getting the caliper on a little tougher but once the wheel is bolted on it does the holding anyways. I torqued the caliper bolts to 87 ft lbs as PureDrifter says in his tutorial. Going to do the driver side tonight.

For the brake grease I used Permatex Ceramic on the back of the pads and on all sides of the shims, says it is good up to 3000F! I used Sil-Gyde on the pins and other parts. We'll see how it does.

nthach

Those disc screws are important to keep the rotor true to the hub. I'd check if the hub face is clean and apply anti-seize to the screws and it won't hurt to apply some to the hub face - especially if you live in a place where salt or de-icers are applied to the roads in winter.

LScowboyLS

the salt damage is why he is having so much trouble, I just did this same job on my '96, which is a southern car, and I had all four wheels done in 2 hours, and that was with a lot of screwing off time! (watching football, talking on the phone, etc.)