All my crazy Lexus issues SOLVED!! (ECU-leaking capacitor)
e no dash no obd connection.I will still plan to get this done,
wonderful thread!I have spent the last two days reading all the post. I have learned a lot from everyone imput, thank you!
Last edited by NotTrue; Oct 9, 2022 at 08:45 PM.
I don't understand the fear mongering statement... we're talking about parts which cost less than a dollar. It's like $10 in parts to perform this fix. It's not like we're talking about a $799 rebuild fee for an ECU at one specific company who you ship it to. I just don't see the economic value in doing whatever you're accusing people having done... but they go through all this incredible amount of work documenting precisely what the problem is, which is of very specific and rare nature and requires very specific and highly educated knowledge to even understand what's going on, much less propose a solution.
Last edited by 400fanboy; Oct 14, 2022 at 12:34 AM.
Today on the way to the car wash the radio is popping out every couple of minutes for just a second or two. I'm worried it's a loose wire. Then I pull the car into the vacuum station, turn it off, vacuum, and when I got back in, the gages are full dead and no starter. I think the radio was on though. I try this a few times with nothing. Pop the hood to see if maybe the battery got wet, and suddenly it decides to start.
However, the 4 gages are dark and the needles are still. The light on front defroster is blinking for a little bit. The engine doesn't seem rough, but maybe it's a little off. Dash lights seem to be fine (turn signals, etc) and the radio and AC were working. I parked it and put it on a charger cause that's an easy check to do.
I suppose my question is does this seem familiar to anyone? Is there a decent chance the car might leave me stranded until I recao the ECU? I've got the parts, as I attempted it once before. But that time I accidentally lifted a trace and killed the ECU. Had to swap my immobilizer to another which is what is in there now.
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. I'm torn between finding another vendor to send mine out to, or using a local shop I've been too over the years, though they've never performed this exact task before.
What's the general sitrep? This repair is far beyond my skills or tools.
.I'm torn between finding another vendor to send mine out to, or using a local shop I've been too over the years, though they've never performed this exact task before.
What's the general sitrep? This repair is far beyond my skills or tools.
Yea uummm, It aint for us common folk. 
Don't know if I'd trust someone who hasn't done it before either, it is pretty precise work.
When I was having trouble with my ECU a few months ago, Tannin's website said they no longer repair it. I mentioned that (in a different thread) and they sent me a message saying they still do repairs and thanked me for pointing that out so they could change the website wording. So I'd say give them a call to see what they say.
Or also, a lot of people had good luck with SIA in Illinois for their ECU. https://siaelec.com/
I can't say anything first hand of anyone's work cuz I just bought a used Reman ECU from Denso which works perfect. (got an excellent price) But I have read alot all the years I've been a member here.
Yea uummm, It aint for us common folk. 
Don't know if I'd trust someone who hasn't done it before either, it is pretty precise work.
When I was having trouble with my ECU a few months ago, Tannin's website said they no longer repair it. I mentioned that (in a different thread) and they sent me a message saying they still do repairs and thanked me for pointing that out so they could change the website wording. So I'd say give them a call to see what they say.
Or also, a lot of people had good luck with SIA in Illinois for their ECU. https://siaelec.com/
I can't say anything first hand of anyone's work cuz I just bought a used Reman ECU from Denso which works perfect. (got an excellent price) But I have read alot all the years I've been a member here.
I have a 98 so I'm at less risk - but the more I read about specifically what is going on here, I want to be proactive about replacing my caps. Because I REALLY don't want to have the headache of what would happen were to them leak, kill my ECU, and then now I have to transplant a new ECU and deal with the immobilizer and all that jazz.
So I just made some local calls around town. Learned some interesting things. I talked to my mechanic who bounced me around to a few people.
There used to be ONE guy who would primarily do this sort of work in the area (city). All of the independents would use him. Nut he went out of business and there isn't really anyone in the city anyone knows of who does board-level soldering work. The demand for it is so low, the shops either turn it away or mail the stuff out. My mechanic can do basic wire-level stuff, but not to the level of familiarity that you'd want for our ECU repair.
What's interesting though - the final electronics shop I spoke with said they have used https://modulerepairpro.com/products...xus-ecu-repair multiple times. Mostly with Chrysler products in their experience, but they've always gotten back quality work from them (says the one guy). I took a look on their website, and they do have services for the 92' - 95' LS400 ECU. Their website doesn't mention capacitors or not. But it's an interesting thing I found I figured I should document here.
Last edited by 400fanboy; Oct 18, 2022 at 03:51 PM.
1. All the recommended 47uF capacitors are out of stock, so I substituted the 63V Rubycon RX30 63RX3047M10X12.5.
2. During desoldering, I had a very hard time getting the solder out of a few of the through-holes/vias. My Engineer SS-02 solder sucker was hardly able to pull any solder out. Eventually I was able to make a small tunnel through the stuck solder by heating it and pushing a sewing pin through.
In hindsight, I'm guessing that the board's factory protective coating was "sealing" the solder in at the other end of the hole, so I could not suck it out. The stuck solder became difficult to melt, I think because of contamination from this coating. Is this a plausible explanation?
If I had to do it again, before starting to desolder, I would thoroughly remove the protecting coating from both sides of each hole using isopropyl alcohol and a bristle brush.
Last edited by ankurdave; Oct 18, 2022 at 08:10 PM.
Just looks like it got leaked on
Few monts ago ABS and TRAC light come on. Steps done and notes:
1) ABS and engine ecu error codes check - no code
2) ABS code check, two times blinks than can be hear relay close to bumper switch off And ABS and TRAC light get on.
3) Tried wheel sensorts check mode, after shift to D or release parking brake fast ABS light flashing (check mode activated) ABS light go on. No codes.
4) Changed ABS ECU by same - no change, same issues
5) Relays under glove box close to ABS ECU switch on when ign go on and holt till ign is on
6) TRAC second trottle selfcheck active when ign on
7) ABS sensors in wheels checked by servis - no failure
8) TRAC high pressure pump and relay not switch on, no pressure in accumulator, but can be caused by not working ABS?
9) brake pedal when is press and engine run is very slowly going down

Any advice what to be check?
abs actuator not working?
Or some ground point?
Or can ba cause by bad capacitor in engine ECU (checked looks ok, not changed).
Thank you








