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should I replace my tie rods?

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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:10 PM
  #1  
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Default should I replace my tie rods?

I have a 1996 LS400 with 115K miles - my steering has a small amount of play, I am thinking of replacing the inner & outer tie-rods, is that where the vast majority of play is on these cars?

I am hoping this will make the steering rock solid like a new car, I know it sure has on other cars I have owned!

Can anyone tell me the best brand of tie rods for my car, the cheapest place to purchase them, and a link to the procedure?

I am thinking this a good plan, it sure has worked miracles in the past!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:44 PM
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you should go under the car and have someone turn the wheel, so you know where the actual play is.

why are you trying to guess?


inner/outer tie rods are standard stuff, no tutorial here.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:49 PM
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Moog was the best for the 02 eclipse I had. Idk about for the LS. I'm having the same problem. Had it since I bought the LS back in December. I'm gona take the car to a shop just to have em tell me everything wrong with it so I'm not doing a trial and error to fix stuff. Don't get me wrong, I'm gona do all the actual work my self
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 02:50 PM
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why are you trying to guess?
because, once again, PATTERN FAILURE - my play is going to be in EXACTLY the same components as everyone's else's play on here who drives a 95-97 generation, so why go out into the 16 degrees when some of the members here already know the answer?

why reinvent the wheel? - they have already done the detective work for me!
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by LScowboyLS
because, once again, PATTERN FAILURE - my play is going to be in EXACTLY the same components as everyone's else's play on here who drives a 95-97 generation, so why go out into the 16 degrees when some of the members here already know the answer?

why reinvent the wheel? - they have already done the detective work for me!
because there's multiple causes to similar symptoms. you would need to have a large, independent sample size (which is pretty much required for pattern failure, and every other statistical analysis to be effective) otherwise your p-value would be so high as to render any results insignificant. And that sample would require everyone in it to live in similar climate and have similar driving habits, maint. history, and etc. as you for it to be a valid comparison.

Even if you somehow had an ideal sample group and competency levels, you could at best, show a correlation between certain symptoms and part failure, but no causation of failure. This like stats 101 mate.

you arent going to pinpoint what's broken by talking about it. you can look and see what's a common issue but at the end of the day you're still going to need to get under the car to figure out exactly what's wrong otherwise you're just wasting your time and money throwing parts at something that may/may not need them.
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:29 PM
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the best thing for you is do a search and see what others have done, and draw your own conclusions
THEN tell us what YOU did to solve your problem.....


/
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Old Feb 13, 2012 | 03:45 PM
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I thought I had explained the pattern failure thing in an earlier thread - it's no different than when I was reading a comment last night that Pure Drifter had made - something like "the front crank seals don't tend to leak, but the rear ones sure do!"

has anyone had experience with any brands other than Toyota for these inner & outer ties rod ends? - the inners are especially expensive for the factory part! (one of the 2 inners is $170 list )

Last edited by LScowboyLS; Feb 13, 2012 at 04:35 PM.
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