396chevy

Ok so heres the thing my 2000 ls400 (with the std suspension) shudders and clunks pretty severely while braking under moderate braking, under light braking everything is fine and under heavy braking everything works as it should. When I get the shudder I feel it in the steering wheel as well as hearing it. It seems to be coming from the front rh corner. I replaced the front discs and pads about 20k ago with slotted discs and ebc pads. This started about 10k miles ago but hasn't gotten worse. It doesn't pull to either side during braking. the car has 225K miles and it has bilstiens on it, I don't know the age since I have only owned the car from 178k. So Im wondering did I warp a rotor or are my struts shot? The car nose dives while braking and leans on hard corners but its always done that. It doesn't seem to bounce too much, I did the classic bounce test and it seems to come back up to ride height pretty slowly but again it doesn't bounce. Any advice or ideas? Thanks in advance. Pat

j three

I think it's your strut rod bushing.

billydpowe

iTrader: (1)

I do too..

Mugen_1

Sounds very similar to mine. Light braking and heavy braking, everything is smooth - terrible vibration through the steering wheel under moderate braking but I haven't noticed any clunking sounds. Also have slotted discs and EBC RedStuff pads. 147,xxx on mine and all of the brake pads/rotors have been changed within the past two years. My car doesn't dive though; probably because the Megans up front are set on 1.

Had a mechanic drive mine to replicate the problem, and of course he couldn't. He suggested it's the wheels/tires causing my particular problem, and when my stock wheels go back on for the winter, I don't notice the problem as much.

396chevy

Thanks guys. I guess i will take a look at my strut rod bushings.

scottys209

Tighten your 15 and 18 (I think, or 18 and 21 mm) subframe nuts.... Had the same issues on my SC, no shop could figure it out because all parts were still good, came on here and found that, noise gone!

j three

Thats a good one scotty, thanks. Mugen I dont think your rims are hubcentric. If you don't already get some hub rings, it made a big difference in the ride quality on my Vossens.

Mugen_1

I'll invest in some non-plastic ones then. 73.1 --> 66.1 is probably what I need?

396chevy

Ok stupid question how do you tell if the strut rod bushing is bad? Also I noticed that the steering tie rod end, upper and lower balljoints are leaking grease so they probably arn't long for this world. Where would you reccomend I buy these parts? Also I think the rear LH wheel bearing is loose.

steve2006

If you want Lexus OEM parts try Sewell Lexus online.
Another cause of clunking when braking is worn or unlubricated caliper pins.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

that doesnt really apply to 95+ models which arent sliding calipers, they're opposing 4piston calipers, rigid.

396chevy

Ok so I was on sewell's website looking for the upper and lower balljoints as well as the strut rods,
#1 Im confused it appears I cant buy just the upper balljoint? Do I really have to buy the whole upper a-arm assembly? I also looked at advance napa rockauto ect and they all show it as an assembly. If I have to replace the whole thing can I go aftermarket and still maintain the ride? I hear there is a bearing inside the rubber bushings??
#2 Also on sewells site for the bottom balljoint they have a diffrent part number for the castle nut and cotter pin, Dosnt that come with the balljoint? Or do I have to buy it seperatly?
#3 And last but not least the strut rod, sewell shows the strut rod and strut rod bushing as 2 seperate parts, Can I just replace the bushing? I heard it has to be pressed in, or if I buy the strut rod does the bushing come installed?

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

1-whole arm as an assy. best bet is OEM, others such as arnott have shown fitment issues.
2-call them, if i remember right it isnt an assy but it could vary gen to gen.
3-both are available, bushing requires labor since a shop with a press (that knows how to use it properly) is needed, the bar itself comes with the bushing installed (for the front at least). avoid aftermarket polyurethane bushings.