How many HWY miles do you get on a full tank with VVT-I 98-00
09-08-11, 04:49 PM
#47
So far my best in my 94 LS in the 6 months and 10k miles since I've owned it was just shy of 24mpg with the a/c off, sunroof venting, and the cruise set at 70mph tach'ing 2,200 rpm's nearly the whole time even though my car runs rich most of the time.
On that tank I got off the interstate and filled up when the low fuel light first came on with about 415 miles at just under 17 gallons to fill it back up again.
I've seen 443 highway miles on a tank driving on the low fuel light a while with the a/c off and needing 19.8 gallons to fill it back up but I typically end up between 380 - 415 hwy miles when the low fuel light comes on and put in anywhere from 17.5 - 19.8 gallons to fill it back up.
A/C use seems to drop my economy by about 2mpg hwy and if I cruise at 75mph instead of 70mph with the a/c on I end up with 18-19mpg instead of 21-23mpg...
My worst tank so far with maybe a 40/60 mix of city/hwy was about 345 miles on 19.6 gallons with the a/c always on and lots of fast food drive-thru idling.
Prolonged idling, especially with the a/c on, and sitting in drive-thru's a lot is a total mpg killer in the LS.
If I don't see at least 125 miles by the 3/4 mark (I've done 150 a few times) or 225 by the 1/2 mark (I've done 275 a few times with the 1/2 mark still totally eclipsed by the gauge needle but I usually shoot for 250) I can sometimes adjust my lead foot and recover by the time I reach E to still hit or exceed 400 miles on the tank but usually if I don't hit those mileage marks along the travel of the gas gauge that means I'll be doing good to even get 20mpg hwy on the tank.
It still beats my 1992 K1500 5.7L Suburban by at least DOUBLE the mpg's city/hwy and sometimes more so even though I wish my 94 LS had the 5-speed auto and taller rear end ratio I'm still very happy with what I'm getting from my 94 LS so far...
On that tank I got off the interstate and filled up when the low fuel light first came on with about 415 miles at just under 17 gallons to fill it back up again.
I've seen 443 highway miles on a tank driving on the low fuel light a while with the a/c off and needing 19.8 gallons to fill it back up but I typically end up between 380 - 415 hwy miles when the low fuel light comes on and put in anywhere from 17.5 - 19.8 gallons to fill it back up.
A/C use seems to drop my economy by about 2mpg hwy and if I cruise at 75mph instead of 70mph with the a/c on I end up with 18-19mpg instead of 21-23mpg...
My worst tank so far with maybe a 40/60 mix of city/hwy was about 345 miles on 19.6 gallons with the a/c always on and lots of fast food drive-thru idling.
Prolonged idling, especially with the a/c on, and sitting in drive-thru's a lot is a total mpg killer in the LS.
If I don't see at least 125 miles by the 3/4 mark (I've done 150 a few times) or 225 by the 1/2 mark (I've done 275 a few times with the 1/2 mark still totally eclipsed by the gauge needle but I usually shoot for 250) I can sometimes adjust my lead foot and recover by the time I reach E to still hit or exceed 400 miles on the tank but usually if I don't hit those mileage marks along the travel of the gas gauge that means I'll be doing good to even get 20mpg hwy on the tank.
It still beats my 1992 K1500 5.7L Suburban by at least DOUBLE the mpg's city/hwy and sometimes more so even though I wish my 94 LS had the 5-speed auto and taller rear end ratio I'm still very happy with what I'm getting from my 94 LS so far...
09-09-11, 10:55 AM
#50
In my recently purchased 99', my first 2 tanks of Chevron 91 oct. with 50/50 highway/city driving & no A/C, Ive only managed 620kms (385miles). The fuel light comes on around 580kms (360miles). I try to feather the throttle to get better mileage. Im hoping I can improve this figure after I do some maintenance. I guess this is close to normal ?
09-10-11, 05:16 AM
#52
Not to split hairs or anything but 2400 rpm's on my LS' tach is 75mph not 70.
Right on or slightly above 2200 rpm's is dead centered on 70mph and my iPhone's gps based "dashboard" app which I've referenced in a number of different modern electronic, digital, and old-school mechanical speedo equipped vehicles and almost always matched up, especially with toyota's digital ones...
Sometimes if I speed up then back off down to 70 again my tach sort of hangs with part of the 2200 line showing at just under 2250 instead of being centered on 2200 at 70mph until I get below 68mph then gently speed back up but definitely not 2400...
Reading a perfect 2200 on my tach with the line totally hidden by the tach needle is also with the speedo's 70mph mark totally blocked from sight (dead-on 70) by the speedo needle too.
I usually try for sustaining that on my long drive to work and if I do it my LS gets just under 24mpg with the a/c off unless I'm headed into a strong wind all the way to or from the office on the interstate, and that's at night with the headlights and stereo on the whole time and sometimes the wipers too which is a massive alternator load, btw...
iirc my buddy's 93 SC400 tach's 2250 at 70mph (I've only driven it 2-3 times since I got it running for him and fixed his bad cluster) although it might be 2500 as his SC's speedo only has 3 250rpm tick marks (like the IS300) instead of 4 200rpm ticks between the 10mph marks that my LS has...
I've also verified his speedo/tach readings with my iPhone app up to about 120mph and both my LS and his SC speedo match up with what my iPhone shows at those speeds unlike many other auto manufacturers whose speedo's appear to read high, yay Lexus...
09-10-11, 10:15 AM
#53
zukikat, my memory may have served me wrong. If so my bad 
.
I was looking at somebody's post about the transmission and differential ratio for UCF10 and UCF20, my impression is that UCF20 has higher overdrive ratio (.75 vs .70). Coupling with a 3.26 differential rearend stock of UCF20, it yields 2.45 as a final ratio. While in a UCF10 with 3.26 differential would yield a 2.3 as final ratio. Stock UCF10 with 3.62 rear-end has a 2.55. Here I made a table with some values for easier visualization.
-----------------------O/D Ratio---------Rear-end Ratio-----------Final Ratio
UCF10 stock 0.705 3.62 2.55
UCF20 stock 0.752 3.26 2.45
UCF10 with 3.26 rear 0.705 3.26 2.30
As we can see, as the UCF20 already getting better mileage than our UCF10, with the 3.26, we should be getting even better mileage than them. Of course as PD points out there will be massive torque loss but how much is massive and would that change affect the way the LS drive large enough to become nuisance. We just need somebody to test this out.
.I was looking at somebody's post about the transmission and differential ratio for UCF10 and UCF20, my impression is that UCF20 has higher overdrive ratio (.75 vs .70). Coupling with a 3.26 differential rearend stock of UCF20, it yields 2.45 as a final ratio. While in a UCF10 with 3.26 differential would yield a 2.3 as final ratio. Stock UCF10 with 3.62 rear-end has a 2.55. Here I made a table with some values for easier visualization.
-----------------------O/D Ratio---------Rear-end Ratio-----------Final Ratio
UCF10 stock 0.705 3.62 2.55
UCF20 stock 0.752 3.26 2.45
UCF10 with 3.26 rear 0.705 3.26 2.30
As we can see, as the UCF20 already getting better mileage than our UCF10, with the 3.26, we should be getting even better mileage than them. Of course as PD points out there will be massive torque loss but how much is massive and would that change affect the way the LS drive large enough to become nuisance. We just need somebody to test this out.
09-10-11, 02:45 PM
#55
Lexus Champion
My combined is usually 20-21 so your numbers are good if the split is equal. If you are biased highway then 24 is about right. Mostly city is more like 18. Good job!
09-10-11, 02:48 PM
#56
Lexus Champion
Never tried it but unless you idle excessively should not be noticeable. These engines cut fuel on decel so that is not helping and idle is only 600rpm or so. Try it if you have the patience ( I do not and would not) and let us know.
09-10-11, 04:41 PM
#57
Pole Position
No, it doesn't, the RPMs are still at 650 +/- 50. If you hypermile like I do every chance I get, that's a different story. If your cruising and the RPM is at 2000-2200 and throw it in neutral and coast for 2-3 miles (down hill of course) at 600 RPM that will save you a considerable amount of fuel. But if all you have is flat land where you live that wouldn't help. My last car, 91 Grand prix with 5 speed, I used to shut it off down hill and just pop the clutch when I got to the bottom. Saved alot that way.
09-10-11, 06:18 PM
#58
some crazy stuff in this thread....popping clutches and shutting engines off at lights..all to save a penny on gas but has worse adverse effects on the car in the long run. i suppose some of u guys see a gas station that has gas for 5 cents less a gallon but have to drive 4 miles out of the way to buy 10 gallons of gas and save...50 cents!
im not judging..just saying so "dont get mad..im only bein real" snoop dogg said it in "all about u" by 2 pac not me
lol
i never know how much i get per tank because i never let it run low...i only do mpg on road trips and i get right around 23...175,000 on the car and it runs like the day it came out of the show room floor
im not judging..just saying so "dont get mad..im only bein real" snoop dogg said it in "all about u" by 2 pac not me
loli never know how much i get per tank because i never let it run low...i only do mpg on road trips and i get right around 23...175,000 on the car and it runs like the day it came out of the show room floor
09-10-11, 10:53 PM
#59
Pole Position
Just wait, it might happen to you. I never thought it would to me after 27 years at the same company. This country is gonna be in another depresion soon enough. Saving a buck here and there adds up. But yeah, using a dollars worth of gas to save 50 cents is pretty stupid. I go to Stop & Shop and save $16-$20 per tank full, that's well worth it. Ok, I'm done complaining now. 