So, I wanted to change my transmission fluid this evening. I put the car on ramps and got my ratchet. The transmission drain bolt was pretty rusty, which I found surprising (I bought this car in April, so it's still pretty new to me). It turned, but it didn't thread out! Argh!

I'm trying to remove the pan, and the gasket is on there pretty good. Any ideas? I'm going to have to get a new drain bolt - and I don't know how to get the one out that is in there.

Any ideas are welcome.

BTW, "transmission drain bolt" returned just two results in LS400. The size is M10X1.5 (I guess). That's important for the new bolt.

Of course, we were going to drive to see family for the holiday...

Thanks for any help.

Micah

 

What do you mean it turned but didn't thread out? Does it seem like it's going to snap? Try heating it with a small propane torch.

As for the pan, there shouldn't be a gasket there, just FIPG (silicon sealant like material). Once you've got all the pan bolts off, gently pry in different places and it should come loose. Disconnecting the filler tube might give you some trouble. It disconnects about a foot above the pan, not at the pan itself. It should slide out when you wiggle it.

 

No, it doesn't seem like it's going to snap. More like the thread was chewed. I am not sure how heating it will help it. Would you help me understand how?

I tried removing the pan just now. That thing is on there tight! I removed the 19 pan bolts, and after lightly tapping it with a hammer and using a few flat head screwdrivers I was only able to get it to barely drip.

After this, I put the screws back in, and put a little silicone around the drain bolt. I think that I am going to take it to a shop tomorrow to see if I can get it removed. Billy Powell responded to another post on the LOC forum and gave me a little hope. Right now I'm very frustrated! At least the transmission mount went on without a hitch.

Micah

 

It sounds like the threads on the bolt, or the pan, are stripped b/c it spins but doesn't come out. You can try grabbing it with channel locks or vise grips and pull on it as you turn it and it might jump the thread that is stripped. I don't think sealant around it will seal it enough. After it is out you just might have to drill and tap a bigger hole (if it's the pan that is stripped) and use a different bolt in it. If you bring it to a shop that's what they will do more than likely. And they will charge you out the A$$.

 

Update: I have taken the pan to a machine shop to have them take the bolt out. By the way, getting the transmission pan of my 1999 LS was frustrating, to say the least... However, once I got it out, I was able to verify that the magnets were (mostly) clean. I was surprised at the dirty fluid that poured out when I finally broke the seal. It was FAR dirtier than when I used the dipstick to check the fluid and levels. I'll update further later on (after I get it back from the machine shop).

 

Also, Black_LS was right. It took nearly 30 minutes of wiggling to get that tube separated. It might have gone faster; however, because I couldn't remove my drain plug, I was trying NOT to splash transmission oil everywhere.

 

Got everything back together last night, and got up this morning, and there's a small puddle of tranny fluid under the pan. Sigh. I'm going to take it somewhere. I literally spent 15 hours on this project. (stupid drain bolt...)

 

Did you put a new fibre washer under the new bolt?

 

Sorry for the delay in update posting. etex, the leak wasn't around the drain bolt, but was at the top of the pan (towards the front of the car). I put the car on the stands, and lo and behold, a few of the pan bolts weren't tight! Also, I know that I bent the lip of the pan trying to push the pan past the exhaust brackets, so on Landar's recommendation and experience (LOC), I *lightly* tapped the tip of the lip of the pan with a hammer and rod to get it back in line. So far, so good! No leaks!

The other royal pain in the rear was getting the dip stick tube installed. I had the worst time getting the two to mate. The O-ring on the top tube kept getting bound and stretching. I eventually took the top tube off and then took the O-ring off, and tried putting the tubes together. They went together smoothly! So I installed a new O-ring and lubed it with a light application of WD-40. With some effort, it finally mated. But then I had to install the top tube bolt, which holds the top tube to the engine block. It's located in a very odd place, and it was an immense pain trying to find the threads. I was literally on lying top of the engine, face down near the firewall, trying to feel where to install the bolt. I finally found it though! The two tubes are not seated all the way. There is approximately 1/2 inch to go. But it doesn't leak when I put Toyota T-IV in, so I'm happy. Shifting is very smooth.

I am never, never, never, never going to take that pan off again. I guess the design had changed from Gen I to the Gen 2.5. It was a lousy way to spend my Thanksgiving holiday! I am very thankful that the pan is on, and it hasn't leaked.

Thanks to all that responded!

Micah

 

Hi Micah,

Coincidentally, I now have a stripped bolt/pan. Can you confirm the size of the bolt (M10x1.5)? Also, do you have any idea what the machine shop did to fix it?

Thanks

 

Black_LS,

Unfortunately, I can’t confirm the size. The machine shop had the correct bolt in a parts bin that they put on.

I had to remove the pan in order to get it to a machine shop. Mine was leaking pretty badly around the bolt, and I thought that I could easily remove the pan. It was a royal pain. The toughest part is getting the pan around the exhaust support brackets. I ended up bending the lip of the pan in getting it out, but it did come out after much swearing, blood, and sweat. I did this without removing the exhaust brackets or the “snubbers”. Once the machine shop had it, they simply drilled the bolt and gave me the new one. Cost me something like 10 bucks.

Use vise grips first to see if you can get the bolt to catch the threads on the pan. If you have a shop close by, you might save yourself HOURS of work if you feel as though you can get the car there driving. If the bolt is leaking considerably (mine was), then consider towing the car to a machine shop to get them to pull the bolt out. You may still save yourself time.

The OEM bolt is pretty soft – so for anyone else that wants to change their transmission fluid, be extremely mindful that you twist the bolt the right way when removing, and do NOT over torque when replacing. It doesn’t take much and the threads will give.

Micah

 

The bolt was stripped and not the pan, correct? I purchased a new bolt, I just need to get in there and try to change it out. I'm really hoping the bolt gave before the pan did.

 

Right, the bolt stripped. The pan’s threads were perfect. I inspected the pan’s threads before reinstalling the pan.

Another idea that might work is taking a flat head screwdriver and wedging it in between the pan and the bolt head. Try to apply leverage as you twist the bolt. May be you’ll get the good threads to mate, and the bolt will come out.

 

go to sears and buy a bolt-out if all it is that the bolt head is stripped.

any local lextoy dealership should have the drain bolt for cheap.

 

That's great news. I have not tried to remove the bolt yet... I took it out and it wouldn't tighten when I put it back. I'm sure I'll be able to get it out again. I'm just worried that the pan threads are stripped, in which case I have bigger issues. No one makes self-tapping oversize bolts that small (M10 x 1.5), so my options would be to rethread it, weld it shut, or get a new pan.