3UZFTE: That post by Carson-Lex is a perfect example of why repeating rehashed threads is an EXCELLENT idea. I (and others, I'm sure) learned a ton from that post with filter pictures and Tundra link. And best of all, Carson Lexus probably just scored a brand new customer!

 

How many quarts?

 

..sigh..I am posting against my own will, but this attachment may give you further knowledge on motor oil as well - also take note whatever Brand you decide to go with, be sure you look at the amount you are buying!! Oil companies are now selling smaller versions of their products. so be carefull when you shelf shop the 5 quart versions look the same, but some are only 4 quarts. hope this helps - and dont start any more oil threads!! EVER!!

 

Thanks for that API pdf. That is an excellent guide as to all things oil.

 

changing you oil does make a difference I am still using 5w30 mobil one my 91 lexus has 250,000 miles the only seal that leaked a little front crank seal changed it at 235,000 I also push my oil changes to 15,000 to 20,000 using the new mobil one extended most high end cars Mercedes BMW ECT go to 15,000 miles between oil changes and 100,000 miles on the trans which is running synthetic trans fluid and now Lexus toyota is running synthetic trans fluid and changing it at 100,000 miles best to trans flush at 50,000. All new cars now use all synthetic fluids my old 1986 Toyota Cressida went 529,000 on all synthetic fluids and nothing wore out.

 

Thanks Bill. What else are you doing to your 91 LS to make it to 250,000? You're obviously doing something right.

 

I'm sorry, but this thread is absolutely pointless. That Tundrasolutions thread is from 05', really this is not new information. Yes, there are some differences of oil, but the truth is none of our vehicles left the factory with synthetic, and most LS4s I've come across have never had any oil issues under 150k, minus a main seal or valve covers here and there. I've seen countless LSs hit 300+k, mine has close to 200k and I'm boosting it, and I run regular oil just on scheduled oil changes as well as my GS430, and never an issue. I'm really not trying to persuade you to save money and buy conventional, I am just trying to explain that it's the company's job to sell you on advertising. Such as Amsoil, yes the oil can be run 25k, but it's not good for your engine. As a byproduct of the internal combustion engine, carbon and dirt build up and the oil as well as the filter do the clean up job. The longer you run the oil, the less effcient the oil becomes as heat breaks it down. Yes, synthetic breaks down less quickly, but it still breaks down. I really personally don't care what anyone puts in their car, I just think that if you have an oil leak or consumption problem, again the type of oil your using is a band-aid. Sorry if I came off wrong, but being that I've spent a lot of time on this subject, I am NO expert, but I do understand that when rubber dries out and cracks (over time), the seal needs replacing. I really don't think one is better than another, it just simply comes down to personal preference and how well, OVERALL the car is maintained, not just 1 or 2 variables.

 

Guys let's keep this thread polite and mature.

3UZFTE and Marklouis, great information but please exit this thread (and I suggest simply stop reading it) if you don't want further discussion. Believe me none of you have seen as many repeat oil discussion topic threads as I have... its a constant of auto forum life just like "what octane gas should I use". I even had to ban a half dozen people a few years ago who couldn't stop arguing about dino vs synthetic at every turn.

This topic is a bit like religion.... expect a lot of strong opinions and no one can prove who is right. Our expectation here on CL is that you discuss the topic maturely and politely, without the name calling (this includes calling others 'newbs' please).

 

m1 syn 5w30 and toyota filter and new crush washer($6-7 for the two)....whats to argue about?!

 

Nothing to argue here. There seems to be some sort of general consensus (backed up by very old but still running first gens) that some version of the Mobil 1 5W-30 along with either of the two Toyota filters w/crush washers is the trick for a long, long lasting first gen. I haven't forgotten the excellent recommendation of the Valvoline Max Life Synthetic Blend for leaking rear main seals on first gens approaching 90,000 though. I haven't tried it yet, but I just throw that out there, again, just to add to the collective wisdom.

I have learned a ton of information from this thread. There must be (I'm positive there are) at least a few others who learned just as much, but never post. Thanks to this thread, I will bet I just saved several thousand dollars over the (hopefully) long life of my first gen LS.

That Tundra info from'05 was new news to me. I am very grateful that it was mentioned on this new oil thread.

 

only oil im leakin is power steering and from the valve cover..but thats from using 0W20 weight lol. other than that, no leaks from the rear seal.

 

I've been using the Valvoline Max Life and Pure One filters in both my LS400 and LS430. After seeing those filters dissected, the original Toyota filter looks like the one to run if your willing to pay $15 plus shipping from Carson for them. I remember reading one thing about the Max Life, it doesn't meet API spec's. Not sure why. Valvoline states that even though its made for higher mileage engines, you can run it in any engine, regardless of mileage.

 

toyota doesnt make any of their parts, wix filters are the best on the market and sold at napa auto parts. high milage oils swell seals. your preference on which oil u put in is just that...your preference. i would be more concerned with what weight/viscosity to use at what milage on ur car. i tend to recommend that after 75 or 80,000 u bump up a grade. 125-150,000 another grade,over 200,000 then bump again. there isnt any right or wrong answers to any of this, if u keep ur oil changed at regular intervals its 6 of one half dozen of another. do u people know that the only time ur oil passes through ur filter is at low rpms? once u hit the freeway it by-passes the filter.

 

Do you know at what RPM the oil filter gets bypassed at? Or is this a gradual bypass that starts around a certain RPM and then is fully bypassed when you reach another RPM?

 

I've been researching filters and filter media and found a couple of interesting sites.

This high powered filter magnet is an interesting product:

http://www.shopfiltermag.com/

This other site sells super long life filters and oil, but as I read their article about filters, it states that if you follow OEM oil and filter change intervals, the standard OEM filter is just fine to use.

http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm