Throttle Positioning Sensor replacement - OEM or Other?
Hi all,
Im going to replace the TPS and i found oem part number 89452-22090 on ebay for about 69 shipped.
I also found a non oem replacement at autozone I can pick up locally, with a warranty for 85. Brand is Duralast.
Anyone know if there will be a problem when purchasing a non oem tps?
Im going to replace the TPS and i found oem part number 89452-22090 on ebay for about 69 shipped.
I also found a non oem replacement at autozone I can pick up locally, with a warranty for 85. Brand is Duralast.
Anyone know if there will be a problem when purchasing a non oem tps?
Last edited by j stuff; Apr 4, 2010 at 09:36 PM.
Hi all,
Im going to replace the TPS and i found oem part number 89452-22090 on ebay for about 69 shipped.
I also found a non oem replacement at autozone I can pick up locally, with a warranty for 85. Brand is Duralast.
Anyone know if there will be a problem when purchasing a non oem tps?
Im going to replace the TPS and i found oem part number 89452-22090 on ebay for about 69 shipped.
I also found a non oem replacement at autozone I can pick up locally, with a warranty for 85. Brand is Duralast.
Anyone know if there will be a problem when purchasing a non oem tps?
THE Throttle Positioning Sensor is that the motor that sits in front of the throttle body and cost about $750.00 at the dealers
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btw, tps is a sensor, not a motor. only thing i can think of that you might be talking about is for the traction control. it has a stepper motor i beleive for the 2nd butterfly. i havent examined one personally but i would assume stepper motor as i dont picture them using a solinoid for that function.
the one in front of the intake manifold is the idle air control valve. the TPS is here, http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/tps.html.
Now the problem is to get these hoses out of the way so i can work on removing it but EVERYTHING is brittle. And the screws holding the TPS in looked like fossilized bone.
the failed tps's ive taken apart the trace on the board has had cracks in it and in 1 case the trace peeled up from the board on both sides of the crack. its just basically a potentiometer. the shafted part has a contact on the trace on the board. eventually the trace/contact pad wear out.








