Take that back like 30 degrees before where i have it set now... Thanks for the help dude... Last question what is the timing normally set at

 

I need your help. I did the unthinkable (I believe) –

1. With the old timing belt still installed, I set the crankshaft pulley at 50 degrees of Top Dead Center (the zero on the crankshaft pulley is aligned with the No. 2 Idler Pulley Bolt, as instructed in the manual);

CHECK CRANKSHAFT PULLEY POSITION
Check that the timing mark of the crankshaft pulley is aligned
with the centers of the crankshaft pulley and the idler pulley bolt.

2. I removed the old timing belt, installed new pulleys, etc.. and I then proceeded to install the new timing belt.

2. I made sure the timing marks on the right & left camshafts aligned with the marks on the timing belt.

3. I installed the Timing Belt Tensioner (torqued the bolts) but I did not pull the pin.

4. I removed the spark plugs (helps when turning the crankshaft pulley).

5. Here is where I begin to panic – In order to check the valve timing, I slowly turned the crankshaft pulley clockwise, 2 revolutions from TDC to TDC (as the manual states). The result is that the timing marks on the right and left camshaft pulleys do not align with the marks on the timing belt. What really scares me is that as I was turning the crankshaft pulley, there were times where it was a bit harder to turn. Please note that I went very slow while turning the crankshaft pulley.

The most important question is (here is where I panic);

1. Did I cause any damage when turning the crankshaft pulley and experiencing the times where it was a bit harder to turn (Interference Engine)?

My next question is;

2. How do I proceed in order to get the timing marks on the camshaft pulleys to align with the timing marks on the timing belt? The manual states;

If the timing marks do not align, remove the timing belt and reinstall
it.

Do I remove the timing belt from the camshaft pulleys, turn the camshaft pulleys in order to match the timing marks from both the camshaft pulleys and the timing belt and then re-install the timing belt? I am very concerned being that this is an interference engine.

I want to thank everyone, in advance, for your help. You don’t know how much I really appreciate you.

 

ok, the valves/valve springs will make the cam "rotate" quickly out of your hands if you're not paying attention, same thing happened to me. I'm sure it put a tiny mark on the piston, but I haven't had any driveability issues, so unless you cranked it hard, it should be ok.

make the timing marks for the crank a 0 and both cams at their marks. once you've done this, gently rotate the engine two revolutuions. The timing belt will not be in the same place, but the 0' mark on the crank and both timing marks should be a 0'

Hope that makes sense.

Jeff

 

HI Jeff,

Thank you for the quick reply.

Dumb Question - Do I set the timing marks to zero (on the crank and both cams) with the timing belt off? I don't want to re-live the horrific experience of turning the crank only to feel tension.

Please let me know.

 

yes you set them all to zero with the timing belt off. Then put the timing belt on. then gently rotate the motor over two full times. they should be at zero again. if they are, you're all set.

 

once you've set the marks to 0, on all three and put the timing belt on, completely ignore the belt itself. it will move but it won't be lined up again.

The belt doesn't matter, only the timing marks on the two cams and the crank at 0

 

Ok. I just want to confirm a few things;

I fully understand that I have to set the crank to the ZERO position (rotate clockwise only). Regarding the cams, I have to set each cam mark to the respective mark that is behind the cam (on the backplate), correct?

Also, when I turn the cams clockwise (with the timing belt off) will I experience any tension or will they turn freely? The reason I ask is because when I was installing the belt, I had to turn the cam and it appeared as if there was some type spring that was creating tension.

 

Correct


they will NOT turn freely, well, they will, but then will wanna snap outta your hands because of the tension of the valve springs. (I mentioned this happened to me a few posts back).

Just set them all to 0, put the belt on and pull the pin on the tensioner.

then slowly rotate twice. If it doesn't bind, and if everything goes back to zero after two (or any number of even revolutions) you're good to go!

 

Thanks Jeff.

One more thing - I should pull the pin on the tensioner only after spinning the crank 2 revolutions in order to confirm that everything is aligned, correct?

I was going to wait until Saturday but I don't think I can wait that long. I will post the result soon.

Thanks again. I really appreciate it.

 

NO! once everything is lined up pull the pin! THEN rotate two revolutions. the timing belt needs its full tension before you rotate the engine at all

If it's not lined up, pull the tensioner, re-pin and do it again.

Jeff

 

Maybe the fact that I did not pull the pin (on the first go-around) caused things to go out of alignment?

And I was also reading that the timing/timing marks could be off by 180 degrees. No chance of that in doing it the way you instructed me, correct?

 

correct. That's why you have to do TWO revolutions to check. 8-)

 

Hi Jeff,

I won't be able to tackle this until Friday. So, I wanted to ask what you used to turn the camshafts? Did you use the Lexus tool that is shown in the manual? Please let me know.

Thanks again

 

my hands, or a 17mm/14mm (whichever it was) on a NON MOVING socket wrench (think small breaker bar, no ratching action)

 

If I use a 14mm socket on the bolt and turn clockwise, won't that tighten the cam even more?