Stroock639

great, now there's even more ideas in my head. are you saying it's bad to put any new fluid in at a time other than a scheduled maintenance interval, or is that just an example of some kind of myth that people believe. i'm thinking here, it's quite late and i'm still working on my paper for class , but i can't see any reason why that'd be the case

RA40

iTrader: (6)

When the color goes from bright red to darker burgundy that is one step away from it being opaque/black. Not good. Many here check at 15K, 30K and 60K miles but driving conditions vary so one should monitor the color of the fluid as indicators when an incremental drain is useful.

That old saying about not changing the fluid, by neglecting fluid changes this will lead to a tranny replacement. Before that the shift solenoids will become plugged and require cleaning or replacement.

Stroock639

just wanted to share that i performed the cooler line flush procedure myself a week ago at my old high school's autoshop (teacher lets former students bring their cars in). everything was a success, the transmission shifted fine earlier but now it might shift even more fine... if thats possible. used 11 quarts of T-IV in total. the first 2 quarts came out at a pretty quick constant flow but the remaining fluid sort of sputtered out despite new fluid being constantly added through the filler tube at the top. the fluid level actually drained somewhat slowly in the funnel but nevertheless the level constantly dropped and fluid constantly sputtered out of the cooler line. a lot of darker fluid came out for awhile but at the end it was pure red. definitely not a bad idea to do if your trans fluid is getting darker and isn't full of metal shavings

valex

My 99LS has been on jack stands for over a week. I thought its a good time to drain transmission. Almost 6 quarts came out over a week, I did drop the pan and has been removing it to drain everything out of it every other day and putting it back on to keep things clean.
Yesterday I did a final clean and installed a new pan ( my old has a stripped drain threads), using Toyota PIFG. I hand tightened the bolts and then a little more and today torqued them to 66 in/lbs. Haven't filled it yet, the new bolts I had turned out to be wrong ones.


What I noticed today is the little seal material that got squeezed out was not rubber-like, but sort of Play Dow consistency. Is that normal? It has been 24 hours, it should have cured completely, right?
Does this PIFG ever expire or go bad?

valex

Now I am just wondering if I should re-do the job with a different tube of sealant before I fill the transmission.

PureDrifter

iTrader: (10)

it'll harden up with heat, as long as it seals righnow you'll be fine.

valex

I asked a mechanic, he says it hardens when compressed, the stuff that is not compressed doesn't become rubbery.
Will fill it when new bolt and washer arrive and see it seals!

Stereorob

as these cars are aging, and substantially since the beginning of this thread, is this stuff still relevant to these cars today at 20-30 years old vs. 11-2 years old?

seems like every one of them have some sort of tranny issue now, even the well kept ones.

tranny failed completely in my 95 and had to rebuild @205k miles.
tranny failed completely on my 90 and went to junk
tranny is slipping terribly in my 99 and sometimes simply wonnt go into gear at all.
tranny is acting erratically in my 2000, which only has 170k miles and babied its whole life.

last time i changed fluid was in my 95, which went on me only a few weeks later after a simple drain and fill.

i want to do the fluid in my 99 and 00, but too afraid they will freak out if i do.

suggestions?

RA40

iTrader: (6)

The first owner of ours had regular dealer maintenance. At the time of purchase they had done the brake, PS and tranny fluid for the 60K service. I've regularly done the partial drain every 30K then on, ours is at 205K. I believe that good regular fluid maintenance is a big factor in the longevity. I was neglectful for our Cressida and the tranny went at 180K. I learned from that experience to regularly do the fluid.

Dad's '68 Corona was at 360K when it was stolen in '84. His '78 Corona was at 340K when it got T-boned. Both were dealer maintained.

aptoslexus

Sounds like it's already freaking out. What's the theory? Dirty transmission fluid is the only thing keeping it from coming unglued? If that were actually true, your transmission is on borrowed time anyway. I did the drain and fill three times after I bought mine, once every time I changed the oil for three consecutive changes. The fluid was bright red the first time I did it, so that was a clue that it wasn't very old. Looking over the old service records, the dealer had serviced the tranny fluid every 30k miles. That's the program I'm sticking with. Tranny has no issues.

JohnAndic

Yea I am looking at Toyota T-IV fluid on amazon and it is expensive. Mobil 3309 and T-IV way more like $15 a quart Canadian now.

YODAONE

Trying to wrap my head around Canada...
Have found it extremely challenging to do business cross border.
Considering exchange rate to U.S. dollar you are paying about $10 U.S. /quart?

JohnAndic

Its more like $11 right now. I can get a case of 12 on amazon.ca for $174CAD and I assume that is the cheapest price. Gas is crazy right now also. Where I live, in Ontario we pay an extra 20c a liter now because of the damn carbon tax, and they are talking about adding another 20-30c per liter.

bradland

It's coming whether we like it or not- https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phas..._fuel_vehicles

DBomb117

Rock Auto sells Aisin brand Toyota type 4 fluid for like $4.50 a quart. Since its Aisin brand i'm sure its oem as Aisin manufactures the A650e that uses the fluid.